Lower fuel filter on 1025R
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Thread: Lower fuel filter on 1025R

  1. Top | #1

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    Lower fuel filter on 1025R

    I was having problems with low power at high RPM on my 1025R, so I checked the fuel filters. The small fuel filter under the floor, at the bottom of the fuel tank was plugged. I replaced it, which fixed the problem, but found that replacing it is a difficult and messy job. I was surprised that there are two filters on the tractor. The one along the side of the engine with the water separator seems to be a good one. Does anyone know why JD put that little cheap filter under the floor where it is hard to get to and replace? Has anyone come up with a better filter that can be easily replaced without having to undo clamps and hoses?

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    Welcome!

    This topic has been around for a while. Short answer- that's a fine fuel filter (I think) and you want to catch it there. The one by the engine block is more of a fuel/water separator. Yes, it's a big PITA, but it's also the low spot in the system, so any crap from the tank should also get stopped there at the PITA filter. Plus, that filtered fuel gets sucked into the low pressure fuel pump up behind the center console, kinda beside where the ignition switch is. You don't want that getting filled with gunk! On to the secondary fuel filter/separator and into the high pressure, block mounted pump. It's finicky, expensive and likes CLEAN fuel.

    The PITA filter should be on your scheduled maintenance chart, every 50 (?) hours but I do mine on the yearly; in spring. Do yourself a favor and install a fuel cutout valve on the tank side, and on the downstream (going to the engine) side and it will be much nicer to replace. Ya, you'll still get messy, but not nearly as bad as without one! And get a couple of the PITA filters just to have on hand- 90% of the time when a tractor "just quits working" that filter has been plugged up with debris.

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    Tomfive's Avatar
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    Here's what I did a couple of years ago.

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...off-valve.html

    Just my 2 cents.
    Tom

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    kylew (07-09-2019)

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    Thanks for the helpful tip

    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    Here's what I did a couple of years ago.

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...off-valve.html

    Just my 2 cents.
    Tomfive,

    Thanks for the photos and info on installing the valve and relocating the filter. That sure will help!
    Tomfive likes this.

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    FWIW, I followed what Tom5 did (thank you Tom)...added the shut off valve but because I have the backhoe subframe I couldn't get the filter on mine to relocate very well under the floorboard because of the bends in the hose, so I moved it to up under the hood before the lift pump. Haven't had any problems with it. I don't really buy the lowest point theory totally. The fuel line is small enough that particles will flow with the fuel up to the filter as the lift pump sucks it from the tank. When I change the filter, I shut the valve off, pull the hose off the filter and put it in a coffee can. Open the valve for 2 or 3 seconds and let it flush the hose. So far haven't had much sediment come out. Even on my X360 the filter is under the hood and has about 2-1/2, 3 feet of hose it has to go through first. When I change that filter and find sediment in it, I do the coffee can routine and also don't get much sediment when I flush that hose.
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    I ran a solid line from the tank just a foot short of the pump and put the filter there....
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    I honestly think if you control the quality of fuel going into the tractor, you will have much fewer problems with the filters and fuel system in general. I also make it a point to always;

    - Screen every ounce of diesel fuel which goes into my tractor through a brass filter screen in a special fuel funnel.
    - Never run any BioDiesel in the tractor as it's moisture in suspense (water content) is 10 times higher than dino diesel.
    - Always run a demulsifier in your diesel fuel as it forces the water to separate.
    - Treat every ounce of fuel with Howe's fuel treatment (brand not important as long as its a high quality product)
    - Keep the fuel tank full to prevent moisture build up in the fuel tank.
    - Treat all the fuel as you fill your fuel jugs to help mitigate moisture buildup in the fuel jugs while stored awaiting use.
    - keeping the moisture out also prevents biological growth, which can certainly be a problem in warm climates and temps.
    - Never let your fuel treatment products freeze or get exposed to freezing temps as they will freeze at temps starting at 36 degrees (above normal freeze temps)
    - Always treat your fuel immediate upon purchase and at treat it when the temps are above freezing if possible.
    - Store your diesel fuel in sealed cans out of the direct sunlight when possible.


    Also, if you loosen the line clamps under the floor board, the lines are much easier to deal with and navigate.

    These work very well to properly crimp the fuel line and not kink it, damage it or cause other issues.....
    AMPRO T70564 2 Piece Hose Pinch Off Pliers - Car Floor Mats - Amazon.com


    I am also in the camp with Kyle and am not convinced in the significance of the low part of the fuel line being where the filter has to be. While I haven't relocated my fuel filter, if I were to, I would get it closer to the engine compartment to benefit in the winter from the engine heat to help counter act the impact of any filter freeze. I also would likely try to adapt a small spin on filter type arrangement, verses having to split fuel lines to change the filter. The main benefit of the filter is to catch sediment, separate water and to also catch the paraffin if the fuel is separating due to cold temp issues.
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    Discussion was made about a shut off. There is one on the main filter but you don't want one between the electric fuel pump and tank as it would serve no purpose and would damage the pump if it were closed off. The small filter is to protect the fuel to the electric fuel pump and the main filter handles the quality of fuel to the pump serving as a fuel filter plus moisture settlement bowl.
    BigJim55 likes this.

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    Works best for me to let the fuel tank level go down to almost empty. Then change the small in line filter. Let the remaining fuel run into a container. Replace in line filter and fill tank. No need for line clamps and forceps etc etc...
    And as was mentioned.....really helps to loosen the fuel line hose support clamps, puts lotsa slack in the fuel hose. YMMV.
    BigJim55, Firemark and bama1025r like this.
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    My situation would be when changing the filter by the pump to let the hose hang down then pressure tank and blow out debrie and also pressurize back through the hose. I saw no reason for a filter that was not easily accessible but whatever one want to do....
    BigJim55 and Firemark like this.

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