Engine sputters - please help
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    Shortstuff's Avatar
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    Engine sputters - please help

    I have a 2016 1025R TLB with 107 hours on her. I took her out yesterday and throttled up and all of a sudden she started to stutter and the rpm's dropped to an idle (or lower) and the engine was rocking back and forth. Restarted her and she ran just fine for about 10 seconds and as soon as I throttled up, she did it again. Today she did it again and the last time I started her she just had that rough idle. Does anyone have any idea what this might be? My first thought is a fuel issue so I ordered both fuel filters which I'll change in a few days. Below is a video link of one of my attempts to run the engine at a high rpm and the resulting sputter/choking. The picture below is what I found on my driveway today and I have no idea what it belongs to, maybe a part off of my tractor that is the reason for my running rough? If anyone knows if this may be a part of my tractor, please let me know.

    Thanks for any help, ideas and suggestions.

    Tractor.MOV - Google Drive

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2017 1025R TLB - 12" Bucket - 55 Amp Alternator - Engine Block Heater - Curtis Premium Cab w/heater - 54" Quick-Connect Snow Thrower

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Proceed with fuel filter change. From your description it is the most likely suspect.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    That metal part in your hand looks like it could be from the rubber strap from the piece of crap air filters they put on these tractors until recently, I bet if you check the air filter it’s flopping around loose. I don’t think that would cause your sputtering though, I agree most likely a plugged fuel filter.
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    I hope I'm wrong...but read this thread:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...broke-off.html

    And this one:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...date-free.html


    Yes that looks like the retainer for the air cleaner.
    Kenny

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    blue87fj60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    I hope I'm wrong...but read this thread:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...broke-off.html

    And this one:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...date-free.html


    Yes that looks like the retainer for the air cleaner.
    Yeah i see where Kenny was going. Hopefully you don't have pieces of intake cover in your engine. And it's just fuel filter or fuel pump.
    Joe
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    Number 1 thing to do today with the tractor.

    Make sure to open the hood and carefully check the top of the engine to make sure the valve cover (which covers the top of the valve train components on the cylinder head) is in tact. Specifically, the area where the air cleaner bracket mounts to top of the engine. Look closely for any signs of cracking or damage to the cast cover piece. If there is any damage, signs of cracking, etc. make sure to not run the engine again and to contact your dealer service department IMMEDIATELY.

    Number 2. Your air cleaner is likely flopping loose on top of the engine, which is adding to the vibration and noise. You need to upgrade to the new style air cleaner (if you haven't done so already, which it sounds like you haven't based upon the piece in your hand)

    Certainly, the fuel filters are the first suspect in the engine performance. Make sure to change both of them. It's a good idea to keep at least one spare set of these filters in your tool box spare tractor parts.

    When changing the fuel filter underneath the floor board, make sure to loosen the hex nut which olds the line clamps which is bolted to the underside of the floor. This will give you more slack in the fuel line and filter and It makes changing that filter easier.

    Also, I use the following and they work very well for changing the fuel filters....Crimps the fuel line. Crimp the rubber fuel line on both sides of the filter as the entire line is full of fuel.

    Amazon.com: Juvale 3 Pack Hose Clamp Pliers - Pinch Pliers - Line Clamps for Brake Hoses, Fuel Hoses, Gas Lines, Coolant Hoses, Radiator Hoses, Most Flexible Hoses, Red: Gateway

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Also, remove the fuel cap and look carefully in the fuel tank with a flash light to make sure there is no sign of any "biological agents", basically mold and bacteria in the fuel or in the tank. If there is any sign of mold, fungus, bacteria, you are going to need several sets of fuel filters and also the proper process and chemicals to clean the tank. Hopefully, you don't find this issue in your fuel tank.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The fuel filters being dirty are classic symptoms of the engine performance you describe. The question is what is plugging the fuel filters and what can be done to help reduce / prevent it?

    Always screen all of your diesel fuel before it is added to your tractor. Here is a great funnel to do just that.

    The screen will catch debris from time to time from within the fuel. Don't think so? Just use the filter and screen and watch what it collects in the fine mesh screen over time. Also, I keep my fuel funnels in a large plastic bag covered just to keep them clean between use.

    Make sure to ALWAYS treat your diesel fuel with a quality fuel treatment product. Pick a brand and stick with it and treat all diesel fuel year around.

    Make sure the fuel treatment product you are using is a de-emulsifier product, one which separates water from fuel. This will help your fuel filters work better as it forces any water to be separated from the diesel fuel. Take the time to read about the difference between a diesel fuel emulsifier product and a de-emulsifier product. NEVER use both products and in my opinion, NEVER use an emulsifier product. One of the most popular emulsifiers sold is the following. I would NOT use this product on any of my diesel equipment. Ever............

    Avoid using this product as it forces the water through the engine and "burns the water" in the combustion cycle with the diesel fuel. Water is very corrosive and it is very hard on engine components.




    Popular brands which have a good reputation which I would use include the following;

    Howes Fuel Treatment (my personal choice and it has never let me down in 20 plus years) this is my always used product, year around.



    Stanadyne (another excellent fuel treatment product)

    Lucas Diesel Fuel Treatment

    Red line Diesel Fuel Treatment



    Through a program of fuel treatment, maintenance and screening, you will significantly reduce any fuel related issues with your machine year around. This means a happy tractor and a happy tractor owner...............

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    What others have said. Basically you have a fuel starved condition. Enough fuel to run at idle, not enough to support full throttle. Classic for a diesel, I've experienced it in the Cummins Ram, Liberty CRD, and the 1025R where the fuel pump had been unplugged at a "servicing" so check that molex 2-pin behind the head. A good friend did that to herself with a fuel filter change on her 2440JD. Had to talk her through bleeding the system by phone relay while I was spaying a dog. Yes, both the tractor and the dog did fine. If your filter changes don't fix it, time to search for an airlock in the system.
    Good luck.

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    Shortstuff's Avatar
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    Thank all of you for your responses. As you can see in the pictures below I opened the hood and found the remains of the air filter housing strap that failed. I'm going to order a new one but in the meantime I had to make something to hold the housing in place so the pictures show what I "made" and it holds tight. (Maybe I should patent it). After installing it I did take her for a ride and it actually ran pretty good all the way up to about 2900 rpm but I am still going to replace both fuel filters (one already came today). I do always use a fuel additive - Sta Bil for diesel but noticed this past spring a brownish colored film on the bottom of my fuel cans. I washed out the containers but it seems to have shown up again in my fuel cans. I'm going to have to find a better additive, maybe one of the ones someone here suggested.

    So I hope I've cheated any disaster and know that I've got to be more proactive with my fuel care.

    Thanks again!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Suggest you try to get the dealer to give or update to the newest air filter setup.
    2018 1025r FEL 54"mmm titan forks & still collecting...

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    Thank you for posting your pictures showing how you fashioned your air cleaner strap repair. Its very important to not allow any vibration from improperly secured air cleaner components on top of the engine as damage has occurred to several others who have had the same issue.

    You mentioned using Stabil for your fuel. Make sure the product is specifically designed for use in diesel fuel as the Stabil product designed for gasoline is NOT compatible with Diesel fuel. If your fuel jugs have the brownish sediment or residue in them, it tells me the fuel additive is likely not being dissolved into the diesel fuel properly. You definitely don't want to have any of these performance or fuel issues when the weather gets colder, as the complications involving diesel fuel multiply in the cold weather.

    While Stabil does have a product for diesel fuel, the stability of diesel fuel isn't really the issue with storing diesel fuel, as it is with gasoline. Also, make sure to not run any Bio-Diesel fuel in your tractor as Bio-diesel has up to 10 TIMES the amount of "Moisture in suspense" in the Bio-diesel when compared to traditional "dino diesel" fuel after typical fuel refining processes. Moisture, specifically water, in diesel fuel is the main culprit of fuel related problems. Not only does it permit algae and mold to more easily form in the fuel in the warm months, having the moisture causes the fuel to burn less efficiently with less power. It's also the root cause of filter freezing and fuel gelling with diesel systems.

    There are many good diesel fuel products including several I listed in a prior post. It's best to select one and use it continuously. It will save you a ton of trouble over the years.

    Now that you have secured the air cleaner assembly once again, Make sure to carefully check the nuts which hold the air cleaner bracket to the valve cover. As these nuts loosen and allow the air cleaner to vibrate, this vibration is a direct culprit of the engine damage which fractures the valve cover and leads to serious damage / destruction of the engine. Don't over tighten the nuts and applying thread lock is certainly encouraged to assure they remain correctly secured.

    While it was good to secure the air cleaner so it doesn't vibrate, I would STRONGLY ENCOURAGE you replace the entire system with the new style air cleaner used mid year 2018 and later. Not only does it eliminate this risk of valve cover fracture and metal fragments in the engine, it also reduces the overall vibration of the engine by moving the mass off the valve cover and onto the radiator core support bracket.

    It's about a $150 expense in parts, but it's a very important investment into your tractor's long and productive life. The actual labor to make the switch is very easy and just requires a few minutes.

    Please make sure to read the threads which Kenny linked in one of the first replies to your thread about the 1 series air cleaner issues. This is a very important issue and could save you a tremendous amount of angst and frustration, not to mention down time while your tractors engine is repaired or replaced should the failure occur.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
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