1025r won't start, dash lights just flash
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    1025r won't start, dash lights just flash

    Sorry if this has been discussed but I couldn't find anything when I searched.
    2015 1025r. When I turn the key the all the lights on the dash flash and you can here and feel the fuel pump clicking. I put a battery booster pack on it and it started. Later I forgot to put into neutral when I got off. Same thing when I went to start it booster and it started. When I parked it I noticed it had reset my hr meter. I shut it off and exact same thing all happened again booster and it started. That was all 3 days ago. Today I pulled it in the garage and using a booster pack because the light flashing and clicking was all happening again. I checked the alternator working good, load tested battery good. So I looked for rubbing wires nothing. So help me please. Ideas to look at or questions to help trouble shoot.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    How are you load testing the battery?

    What is the static battery voltage?

    What is the battery voltage when turning the key to crank position?
    kylew likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Seems like it ought to be a dead battery if it starts every time with a booster pack.
    Tomfive likes this.
    2018 1025r. 260B backhoe, 120r loader, Titan 36" forks, Frontier RT1142 tiller
    1995 Lowes branded riding mower.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    How are you load testing the battery?

    What is the static battery voltage?

    What is the battery voltage when turning the key to crank position?
    I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

    13v static
    just under 13 after load test
    8v when turning the key

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradkincart View Post
    I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

    13v static
    just under 13 after load test
    8v when turning the key
    And there is your answer right there.
    ~Stan~
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    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    It's battery time........the battery is 5 years old if its the original.

    If the battery load tester is not showing the battery as weak, I question the load it is actually putting on the battery when testing.

    Also 10 seconds ( a true 10 count) is a long time for a battery load if its a TRUE load test. Usually, you can apply the test load and see the battery stressed in just a few seconds which indicates the bad cell(s). The ultimate real world load test is always turning the key............

    If your charging system is putting out the power needed to charge the battery (should be 12.9 volts +) where is the power going if the battery isn't the problem?

    Having to use a jump pack twice or more after running the vehicle means it's new battery time probably 98% of the time, if not more.
    Tomfive and kylew like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

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    Thanks I was thinking battery was kinda second guessing myself for some reason.
    mdgilbreath likes this.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradkincart View Post
    I have a battery tester that shows static voltage, a switch to put a load on the battery usually do it for about 10 secs and it shows what the charging system is putting while its running.

    13v static
    just under 13 after load test
    8v when turning the key
    There ya go... BATTERY!
    PJR832 likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradkincart View Post
    Thanks I was thinking battery was kinda second guessing myself for some reason.
    No problem and make sure to let us know once you have gotten the tractor back 100%.......

    Make sure to buy a battery which is not only sized right physically, and with the Cold Cranking Amps, but one which can handle the vibration of the diesel tractors. That might mean considering the battery from the Deere Dealer or a gell type of battery, which are expensive, but I had great luck with them in my race cars. I could use a battery physically the size of the garden tractor battery to start a 1,400 hp race car and we never had battery issues.......

    At the minimum, get the battery from the Deere Dealer designed to tolerate the use conditions. Don't be tempted to find a low cost alternative at Auto Zone, etc. as its very unlikely to give you 5 years of service in the tractor with the vibration and being shaken and bounced around like they are when secured in the battery compartment.........

    Also, don't use a Deep Cycle battery in the tractor as it doesn't cycle the battery the way a deep cycle battery is intended and designed. Deep cycle batteries are built to have big demand draws and then a recharge and more big demand draws and another recharge, such as when running a winch, or boat trolling motor, etc.

    Yes, the Deere dealer batteries are more expensive than other choices, but it's because they are built to tolerate the stresses of the tractor which are quite different in internal construction of the plates, etc, than a typical car or SUV battery.

    Good luck and stay in touch with GTT.......
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 09-02-2019 at 05:24 PM. Reason: added content
    Tomfive and kylew like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Buy a new battery
    BigJim55, keane and kylew like this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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