Protective Cage for 1025r
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    Protective Cage for 1025r

    I will be working with the 1025r close to some tree and limb cutting that are in peoples yards.

    I have been cutting trees for more than 50 years (weekend lumber jack ) and I know what the risks are.

    Question: I would like to add a protective cage in case a branch falls my way. Maybe connect to the roll bar. Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
    Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada

    1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month - - - no lawn cutting

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    People have made branch lifters which are basically bars that run at an angle to the front connecting to a brush guard or something else.

    Someone will have a photo as I have seen them on here before. However I would be nowhere near any cutting activity. No way to protect from all the possibilities.
    Last edited by Herminator; Yesterday at 01:10 PM.
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    If the overhead hazard is active tree work you need to look at local safety laws even if your not getting paid. A tree service would lose its license immediately here if they allow anyone under an overhead hazard that isnít absolutely required as part of the overhead work. Even the tree crew itself canít work underneath unless there are no other options.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    A few sections of box tubing, some screening and a welder and you can be in business.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails tractor_cage.jpg
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    If you search for the term "FOPS" (Falling Object Protective Structure) on here and Google you'll get some ideas.
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    Kenny

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    A few sections of box tubing, some screening and a welder and you can be in business.
    I like that cab easy to convert for winter use closing it in. I made my own so it could be removed easy and just break the weather. My heater will keep it nice when plowing snow. Mine won't hold up falling trees but the Lexan and Kydex being as light as it is still supper strong for sharp sticks and such of branches. Just put my "add on" Lexan Lower Wind Breaks near the seat and rear window with wiper also on for winter. Click image for larger version.†

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    If you search for the term "FOPS" (Falling Object Protective Structure) on here and Google you'll get some ideas.
    .

    "I don't want Fops gol dern it, ...I'm a Dapper Dan man!"

    "...and I like the smell of my hair treatment. The pleasin' odor's half the point."

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    Whatever structure you add, try to keep it light. A larger (normal sized) tractor can tolerate a beefy structure without significantly affecting stability. Not the case on these little SCUT tractors. Wether or not you notice the diminished stability will depend upon how you use the tractor.

    My property is all on a slope that ranges between 10% and 50%+, with a few flat areas. Stability is always on my mind. I would add double the weight of the new structure to the wheels in the form of fluid filled tires or wheel weights to help bring the stability back to normal.
    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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    I’d think you could do something like this. Take some DOM tubing and weld a horizontal flat plate to it. Then use Ken’s 2x ROPS clamps and 2x ballast weight clamps per side for the front guard to attach it. You want the plate horizontal so it’ll bolt up to the clamps and have two, grade 8+ bolts instead of one. Then use a down brace close to the cab, to prevent all out collapse, and run to the bolt hole on the loader mount if you have one.

    Weld in cross braces above your head so it doesn’t come in on you and maybe some mesh wire.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3CE22F8C-F483-42E4-A00A-FC51A749D4DB_1570495849983.jpeg
    Last edited by Merc123; Yesterday at 07:53 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    If the overhead hazard is active tree work you need to look at local safety laws even if your not getting paid. A tree service would lose its license immediately here if they allow anyone under an overhead hazard that isnít absolutely required as part of the overhead work. Even the tree crew itself canít work underneath unless there are no other options.
    Agreed . . . but sometimes a tree can swing in totally unexpected ways so I prefer being prepared rather than sorry
    JD4044M likes this.
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
    Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada

    1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month - - - no lawn cutting

    Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake

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