Changing the battery in a 1025r with the Mauser Cab
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Changing the battery in a 1025r with the Mauser Cab

    I have noticed the battery in my tractor wasn't as strong starting the tractor recently, so I checked the battery in the only meaningful way, with a battery load tester. Here is what the battery load tester showed. It showed the battery tested fine with 12 volts while setting there but the moment I exposed the battery to a 10 second load, it showed the battery was not at full strength.

    This battery is 25 months old and has about 400 hours of engine running time. With winter coming, its time for a new battery.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails batterytest1.jpg   batterytest2.jpg  
    OxPath, BigJim55, keane and 5 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    The battery is buried at the front of the tractor. The Technical Service manual isn't real helpful it basically says "Replace battery by removing it and reinstalling it, removing a headlight is required to get the battery out of the compartment, replace in reverse order" or something sort of like that. This will give you some more details of what you need to remove and what you don't need to remove the replace the battery.

    Here is a picture of the front of the tractor when you have the Mauser Cab. You have the windshield washer tank and the bracket, as well as the wiring and the pump, etc. which is in the way, for sure.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jdbattlocation.jpg  
    Busman, BarryNWa, JD4044M and 2 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Unplug the washer tank pump power wire. Lift the tank up and forward and it comes off the bracket. Set the tank off to the side, I placed it on the hood guard.

    Use a 10mm ratchet wrench and a box end wrench of 10mm on the opposite side and remove the bracket which holds the washer fluid tank.

    Unplug the headlights on each side and move the wires out of the way.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails washertank.jpg   washertankremoved.jpg  
    Busman, BarryNWa, JD4044M and 2 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Use a 10mm Deep well socket and remove the two long bolts on the right side headlight. DO NOT remove the short bolts on the out side of the head light, near the right side of the tractor as you are going to remove the entire assembly with as little disassembly as possible,. Here is what the bolts look like.

    The two plastic brackets shown are the side on the right of the right headlight where the short bolts and the bracket slide into this assembly to hold it.

    Once you remove the headlight assembly, remove the two long bolts which are threaded into the plastic housing of the grille. Be VERY CAREFULL TO NOT mess up the threads on these studs. Use pliers or something similar and back the studs out of the plastic grill housing. Make sure to pay attention to where the springs are located in the assembly. DO not drop them as you need them to adjust the headlights.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails headlightmount.jpg   headlightbolt.jpg  
    Busman, BarryNWa, Toughsox and 1 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Use a 1/2" ratchet wrench and loosen the battery cables on the battery. Be careful to not make any contact with the wrench when on the positive battery terminal or sparks will fly. Remove the battery cables and clean them carefully on the inside of the battery terminal to make sure there will be a good connection on the new battery.

    Remove the battery vent. Here is what it looks like, on the right side of the battery and it vents down below the battery tray and the radiator assembly.

    Check the battery vent as they plug with dirt and debris. Note the condition of the vent on mine before and after I used the air compressor and blew the dirt out of the vent tube......

    Note, there is a cab on the other side of the battery on the opposite side vent location on the battery. Remove the cap and keep it for use on your new battery as the new battery didn't come with the little cap to plug the opposite side vent of the one which has the vent hose on it. Clean the vent tube and cap and prepare to use it on the new battery.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails plugvent.jpg   openvent.jpg  
    Busman, BarryNWa, JD4044M and 1 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Reach down into the battery compartment and remove the battery strap and place it off to the side. Carefully lift the battery and I ended up rotating the battery and bringing it out length wise to get it out of the compartment. Hang onto the battery as it is not light (about 35lbs) and its dirty from being in the front of the tractor. Make sure to not catch your sleeves on the other long headlight bolts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails emptybatterytray.jpg  
    Busman, BarryNWa, JD4044M and 2 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Clean the area where the battery sits in the battery well. Now that i have seen how the battery sits down in the well, I don't object to the rubber tarp strap as a hold down as I did when I first saw it used on the tractor. The battery can't slide anywhere nor does it have any chance to tip as it is recessed into the well about 1/4th of the battery depth.

    Clean all of the area and the battery cables while you have the battery removed. I used soap and water and then my 58v Battery Operated Hand Held Echo blower to dry the battery tray and area as it was cold here today.

    Now is a good time to install a Battery Tender plug in leads on the battery terminals when its reinstalled. This way the new battery will be monitored and kept on the tender, which will help keep it properly charged in the cold winter weather.

    If your tractor has any extra leads for power attached to the battery cables, now is a great time to carefully check these wires and connections. My tractor has the sprayer harness which provides live 12 volt at the rear of the cab from direct leads from the battery. I replaced both of the wire connectors which attach to the battery posts as they were bent up and somewhat corroded.

    I also added about 6" or wire to the positive and negative leads and they were installed very tight and I wanted the wires to not be pulled as they were. I spliced those in with new heat shrink connectors to attach to the battery terminals.

    Set the new battery down in the tray and if you have all of the rest done and make sure to not pinch any wires, etc.

    Reverse the process and you are good to go. Don't forget to strap the battery back down.

    Make sure to put the springs for the headlight mounts in the correct place as these are how the headlights are aimed and adjusted. Take a picture of these before disassembling them or you can always look at the other headlight to make sure you are putting them back together correctly.

    When you have the headlight out of the assembly, its a great time to clean the headlight lens really well. Also make sure to not pull the headlight wires when getting the battery in and out.

    Note on the last photo how the two long headlight bolts I removed now have zip ties on them. I used these as the securing point for the new Battery Tender charging leads. I tied the harness to these posts so it can't pull on the battery posts if I should forget to unplug the tender and the worst that will happen is it will unplug the tender from the harness.

    Obviously, it would be best to unplug it by hand and not rip it out by driving the tractor away, but knowing I am unplugging and doing this at 2:30am, its best I take precautions to not damage anything or short out the battery wires, etc.

    There you have it, replacing the battery in your 1025R with the Mauser Cab. Without the cab, you won't have the washer tank, supply line and harness to deal with nor will the bracket be on the tractor which mounts to the frame of the radiator screen and core support.

    I took my time and cleaned things and also replaced the wiring connections with new heat shrink connections. It took me over an hour to replace the battery with these extra steps, but I also wasn't working on flat rate. Simply getting the battery in and out should be maybe a 30 minute job.

    Very handy tools to have to do this include the following;

    1/4" Drive ratchet and 10MM deep well socket
    1/2" Box end wrench
    1/2" Ratchet box end wrench
    Battery Terminal Puller
    Heat shrink tubing and small butane torch (my cigar lighter....)
    Long regular blade screw driver to help spread the battery terminals
    Electrical wire strippers and crimpers if replacing other wires to the battery
    Good gloves for handling the battery

    Removing the headlight bolts is MUCH EASIER with the deep well socket and ratchet. Remember, only remove the long heallight adjust bolts on ONE SIDE of the headlight. Also, do NOT loosen the small headlight mounting bolts, you will remove them in place with the entire mounting frame and headlight lens assembly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails batteryalldone.jpg  
    OxPath, Busman, BarryNWa and 5 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





  10. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to SulleyBear For This Useful Post:

    BarryNWa (11-10-2019), Busman (11-09-2019), kylew (11-09-2019)

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    Busman's Avatar
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    Great write up on replacing the battery with the Mauser cab.

    What battery did you install this time around. From JD or other?
    SulleyBear, JD4044M and Toughsox like this.
    Glen

    Current Fleet

    2017 - JD 1025R w/260B backhoe
    2018 - JD 1025R w/Mauser Cab

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Busman View Post
    Great write up on replacing the battery with the Mauser cab.

    What battery did you install this time around. From JD or other?
    Than you for the compliment.

    I went with another John Deere battery. The battery is a size 22NF and there aren't a lot of batteries in that physical size which have the same cold cranking amps at 600cca as the Deere battery. It was $99 plus tax at my dealer.

    I looked at several race car batteries, as I always ran a gell battery in my race cars and they are small, have very high cranking power and very durable. Since the gell racing batteries don't use the traditional battery plates, they don't experience the same issues as the tractor batteries often do from the vibration. You can mount the race batteries in any position and they will work fine, not that I was going to change the install location on this tractor.

    But no one had a battery in stock for my tractor in the racing batteries. The battery cables are quite tight and there isn't much room for any differences in the battery post position. Plus it sits down in the recess area in the compartment, so the battery certainly can't be any physically larger than the OEM one.

    I have a lot of extra electrical equipment on my tractor. I added the upgraded alternator due to the cab and while the load when the tractor is running is often satisfied by the alternator output, I didn't want the reduced cold cranking amps of the alternate batteries which others did have in stock. Also, every other battery I found at Batteries Plus, Advance Auto, O;Reilly's, Autozone and one other local place, the prices were all $138 or more and they had less cold cranking amps, most were at 450cca.

    Granted, 450 cca would likely suffice, but why compromise the power to start the tractor if I don't need to? It sure starts better with the new battery now.......

    I could have ordered a battery, but as usual, when you need the battery, you need it right now. We have heavy snow forecast for this week so it looks like the tractor is going to be in use quite often this week........Plus I had to core aerate 6 acres today.
    BarryNWa, kylew, JD4044M and 1 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    KHodges's Avatar
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    Great writeup, Sully. Deere sure didn't make it easy for you. Why, in their infinite wisdom , did JD change the hood to a fixed grill and side panels from a 'one piece' that hinges upward and gives you access to the entire engine and battery area? My 2520 is way easier to access the battery, radiator, air filter, heck, the whole front end. Swing out the grill guard, pop the hood release and lift it up. I could change my battery and be done before you even got to yours. I looked at 1025R and 2025R before finding the older gen tractor.
    SulleyBear and JD4044M like this.
    My herd:
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    1986 212 38" deck
    1984 318 50" deck
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