H120 Loader Mounting Woes
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Thread: H120 Loader Mounting Woes

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    H120 Loader Mounting Woes

    So I just removed the blower from my 1025r, and put the loader on for the first time in 4 months.

    I had a bear of a time with the lift/lower blue and red connectors as it was pretty cold when I took it off and today was a warm day.

    I tried pushing the connectors against a piece of metal, but the nipples wouldn't budge and I ended up having to squeeze them in with a pair of channel locks. I tried taking the. Weight off the part stand, shifting the loader around with a 2x4, trying to relieve the pressure on the cylinders but no dice. Finally was able to squeeze in the nipple and let out a quick burst of fluid with the channel locks.

    Doesn't appear that any physical damage was done to the connectors as a result of this, so that's good.

    However now the loader seems slow. It may just be me as I haven't used it for 4 months, but what's The lift cycle time on the H120? Curl and dump seem fine. Tried various engine speeds but it just seems slower then I remember. It's about 5ish seconds from ground to top.
    2013 1025R
    H120 / 260BH
    54 Snowblower
    Artillian 42" Forks
    Imatch
    PSRumors Springs
    Kens Bolt On Hooks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormandrewd View Post
    ...but what's The lift cycle time on the H120? Curl and dump seem fine. Tried various engine speeds but it just seems slower then I remember. It's about 5ish seconds from ground to top.
    Here's video of the 1026R showing the lift speed, at idle.



    Also, don't forget to put a rag over those hydraulic connectors when relieving pressure.
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    Yeah that's about right, I guess I just remember it as faster.

    The whole rag over the coupler thing, is that just because of the pressure? The fluid itself won't damage anything right?
    BigJim55 and Marlin like this.
    2013 1025R
    H120 / 260BH
    54 Snowblower
    Artillian 42" Forks
    Imatch
    PSRumors Springs
    Kens Bolt On Hooks

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    When you remove the loader, make sure that you move the joystick in all directions several times after you have turned off the engine. That relieves the pressure in the lines. Otherwise, you will have a difficult time when it comes time to reconnect the loader hyd fitings.

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    If that happens again, rather that using channel locks against the poppet just grab two wrenches and lossen the coupler a bit to relieve the pressure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormandrewd View Post
    Yeah that's about right, I guess I just remember it as faster.

    The whole rag over the coupler thing, is that just because of the pressure? The fluid itself won't damage anything right?
    Keeps it from squirting and getting where you don't want it, such as in the eyes. There's also the risk of injecting into the skin but that is probably not very likely if you keep body parts away.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    If that happens again, rather that using channel locks against the poppet just grab two wrenches and lossen the coupler a bit to relieve the pressure.
    I've done this, but beware, the sealing o-ring can pooch out. If you don't pay attention to it, you could damage or destroy it when re-tightening the fittings. I prefer the "press the poppet" method because of that.

    Somewhere someone has a tool for that. It's a clamp that fits over the fitting and has a thumb-screw that presses the poppet without damage. If I could find it again.....

    Better yet, I know a certain company that should sell these tools.

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    Thanks for the replies. I'll have to note the temp next fall when I remove the loader and try to re attach it when the temp is similar.

    For it was available, I'd certainly buy one of the "tools" to push the poppet.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    2013 1025R
    H120 / 260BH
    54 Snowblower
    Artillian 42" Forks
    Imatch
    PSRumors Springs
    Kens Bolt On Hooks

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    I don't use my loader often but it's a life saver when needed. I let my loader sit for a couple of months and even after "wiggling" the joystick before I disconnect it had problems putting the connectors back together. I placed rags over the ends and tap the tips with a hammer. The rag was soaked and if it wasn't there could shoot fluid at least 10 feet in a pretty strong stream. The problem with no rag for me was the danger of getting shot in the face with oil, everywhere else it's pretty much just a mess maker. I only tapped one connector before I gabbed a rag, it seemed to shoot in any direction it felt like. The other problem is if you happen to bleed too much oil depending on the connector you tapped the loader might have settled to a lower position that you can not drive the "loader mounts" under the loader frame. After seeing the single point video I never looked back, best mod I have done, at least for me.

    Maybe I just went about it all wrong, I usually made two quick taps to the tips before I could get the couplings together.

    Edit....well a bit late but better than never, I am just not fast enough doing the seek and destroy method on my cell phone.
    Last edited by scoobysmak; 03-06-2016 at 08:55 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobysmak View Post
    The other problem is if you happen to bleed too much oil depending on the connector you tapped the loader might have settled to a lower position that you can not drive the "loader mounts" under the loader frame.
    If the loader stand is fully deployed the loader will not droop because it is "over center". I only learned of this last year when someone mentioned it here on the forum. When you are disconnecting the loader, keep operating the SCV so that it lifts as high as possible. The latches will then flip down automatically - that's how you know it is high enough. You'll need to back the tractor away slightly while doing this to keep the loader stand from making contact with the tractor. In this position it does not rely on hydraulic pressure to keep the loader standing.
    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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