Problem with independent lift on 1025r
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Thread: Problem with independent lift on 1025r

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    spferdil's Avatar
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    Problem with independent lift on 1025r

    Today I went to take the MMM off of the tractor, hit the lift switch so I could put it in Install position, and nothing, it won't lift or even make a noise.

    I'm pretty sure it's electrical problem, acts like a blown fuse, but I can't find mention of a fuse for it anywhere. I can't believe the circuit is not fused, but all the fuses in the fuse box are good, and everything else electrical seems to work.

    Any ideas appreciated before I resort to tracing wires.
    It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

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    tim.bergfeld.3's Avatar
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    Best thing I ever got was a power probe. It would allow you to put 12 volts right to the switch and to also determine if it is a bad ground.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by tim.bergfeld.3; 07-17-2016 at 11:17 PM.

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    Leney's Avatar
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    I'd start by popping the switch out of the dash and make sure one of the little connectors hasn't just vibrated off

    But yes, a little test light probe is definatly essential for working on 12v systems of any kind
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    2014 1025r
    R4 tires, H120 loader with QA actuator and switch, 60" auto connect with electric over hydraulic lift/diverter valve, Frontier 54" snowblower w/ custom electric chute, homemade pallet forks, JD ballast box, 53" bucket, custom built rops/light bar, homemade IMatch quick hitch, homemade hydraulic grapple, Frugal Front Backhoe

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    Quote Originally Posted by spferdil View Post
    Today I went to take the MMM off of the tractor, hit the lift switch so I could put it in Install position, and nothing, it won't lift or even make a noise.

    I'm pretty sure it's electrical problem, acts like a blown fuse, but I can't find mention of a fuse for it anywhere. I can't believe the circuit is not fused, but all the fuses in the fuse box are good, and everything else electrical seems to work.

    Any ideas appreciated before I resort to tracing wires.
    The lift switch is powered by wire 562 which gets its power from fuse 8 in the schematic (G in the fuse box layout). 10 amp fuse. If it's not the fuse, maybe the switch or solenoid valve coil. There is also a wiring connector in the harness that goes from the rocker switch to the solenoid valve. Make sure this didn't get unplugged for some reason.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1025R Key Switch.PNG 1025R MMM LIft Sch.PNG 1025R Relays-fuses.jpg
    spferdil likes this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    spferdil's Avatar
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    This thing really bit me in the butt but everything is OK now.

    It was late yesterday when this happened and I was tired. After checking all the fuses I decided to wait until today to pursue it further. Then later I remembered that I have the Service Manual CD, so today I printed the relevant wiring diagrams from it and saw that there was no other fuse for the lift as I had expected.

    So pulled the switch out and checked it - good, checked the 12 volts to it - good, couldn't get to the solenoid to check it with the deck all the way up in Lock position. So decided next move would be to man-handle the deck to get it out of Lock position and drop it out of the way.

    Still had the switch on the bench so decided to put it back in before before moving on since everything checked OK on that end. I plugged the switch back in and put it back in the dash, and for some reason I pushed the switch, and... the SOB worked!

    The plug had seemed tight when I pulled it off of the switch, but the only explanation I can come up with is it must not have been completely seated on the switch before - (but it had been working fine for a year) -

    Anyway, it's working fine again now and I will know where to check first if it happens again.

    I really appreciate all the responses, and all had good information. That's the great thing about this place, people willing to help with a problem.
    Ray_PA and 69project like this.
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