1025R Coolant Heater Fails, Petcock or Plug?
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30
Like Tree38Likes

Thread: 1025R Coolant Heater Fails, Petcock or Plug?

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:38 PM
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    920
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 372 Times in 195 Posts

    1025R Coolant Heater Fails, Petcock or Plug?

    My coolant heater has failed. I checked it with an ohmmeter and it is open circuit. It used to make a whooshing sound when I plugged it in, but it is quiet now. I use it only about 10 minutes at a time to eliminate smoking upon startup. My tractor is stored in an insulated garage attached to the house. It rarely gets below 50 degrees in there. So the heater never gets left on for long periods.

    The coolant heater was installed prior to delivery of the tractor when new, so it should be covered under warranty. I'm just under 2 years since delivery.

    I'm going to replace it myself to save the dealer transport costs. I"m also due to replace the coolant, so at least I'll get that done at the same time.

    The 1025R Operator's Manual says to remove the radiator plug to drain it. If this is a plug, it looks like it drains into the battery well. The technical manual says this is a valve. With a mirror, I can see a hose coming out beneath it, so I'm guessing it's a valve. There's also an installation post for putting in a coolant heater that says this is a petcock. So I'm hoping for valve/petcock. I don't like surprises with large amounts of fluid.

    Also, I think I've found the engine block drain plug for the coolant. The Op Manual shows a 1023E, which has a different engine. (See photo.) If this isn't it, somebody please let me know.

    The various manuals all talk about using "a sealant" on the heater element when screwing it in. Anybody have a more specific suggestion? Bathtub caulk is a sealant, but probably not appropriate here.

    Thanks,

    Keane
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Petcock or Plug.jpg  
    Marlin likes this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Zebrafive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:21 AM
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    7,276
    Thanks
    1,534
    Thanked 607 Times in 533 Posts
    In the drawing key one is the block drain, looks like what you have picture. In the radiator drawing, key 27 is the radiator drain. I would ask the dealer to recommend a sealant.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1025rblockdrain.jpg   1025rradiatordrain27.jpg  
    J
    John Deere 2030 w/245SL Loader
    John Deere 6415 w/640SL Loader
    John Deere 285 50" deck Stolen May 2017
    John Deere x485 62" deck AWS
    Kawasaki Mule 2510 4x4 bought new 1996
    Ford F250 4x4 bought new 1978

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Zebrafive For This Useful Post:

    keane (07-18-2016)

  5. Top | #3
    OxPath's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:01 PM
    Location
    Central New York
    Posts
    3,639
    Thanks
    803
    Thanked 1,030 Times in 640 Posts
    Have a look at this thread. Engine Block Heater Install - 1025R. It might help you prepare for the job and there is a side discussion on sealant. General consensus: Use a good quality pipe dope and don't be stingy. I use Oatey. It's inexpensive and easily obtained. I can't tell you if its good quality, but it hasn't ever failed in the applications in which I've used it, including on the block heater.
    Last edited by OxPath; 07-18-2016 at 02:09 AM.
    - Phil -
    *Spinner Free* LT160 Garden Tractor
    *Spinner Free* 3320 eHydro - 300CX Loader - 72" HLA SnowPusher 2500 - TSC Post Hole Digger - BB2172 Box Blade
    *Spinner Free* John Deere 26G Compact Excavator - 18" HD bucket - 30" ditching bucket - PA15B 12" planetary drive auger
    Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks - Artillian 42" Forks - Edge Tamers

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to OxPath For This Useful Post:

    keane (07-18-2016)

  7. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  8. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:38 PM
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    920
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 372 Times in 195 Posts

    Job Completed. New knowledge.

    I finally replaced my coolant heater element (and the coolant at the same time).

    I had to buy a 35mm socket for the job. I had adjustable wrenches that would get the element out, but there was a torque spec for putting it back in.

    Turning the heating element out took my longest 1/2 inch drive bar and a lot of oomph. Either the heating element was tightened in way beyond spec (27 N-m) or the sealant was really strong. I put it back in to spec and 27 N-m is not very tight. I found both of the bolts on the adapter flange not tightened to spec, also 27 N-m. They may have loosened up as I was turning out the element. So I tightened them.

    I found Loctite PST 592 thread sealant at my JD dealer. Says it's for high temp radiator applications. I asked the parts guy if this was the right stuff for my job. He said he was unaware that they carried it and didn't know. I read the package and concluded it was. The tip on this tube of sealant was really well-designed. It provided very thorough coverage of the threads with no overage. I also used this sealant on the coolant drain port on the engine. No leaks. I would buy this stuff again.

    I measured the resistance of the new element at 35 ohms. This seemed low to me. It's pretty hard to see with the element installed, but the wattage is stamped on the edge of the head (where the socket contacts it). I was surprised that it is 400 watts. I only use this for about 10 minutes at a time, but I've heard of some people who leave it plugged in much longer. This is a lot of juice. I did the math to confirm that my measurement was consistent with the markings:

    R = V^2/P = 120 X 120 / 400 = 36.

    I won't leave this heater plugged in any longer than I have to. I've found that 5 minutes is enough to pretty much eliminate the smoking at startup.


    Keane
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2016-08-22 15.45.47.jpg   2016-08-22 15.46.32.jpg  
    56FordGuy, BigJim55 and Jeff B like this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  9. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    I finally replaced my coolant heater element (and the coolant at the same time).

    I had to buy a 35mm socket for the job. I had adjustable wrenches that would get the element out, but there was a torque spec for putting it back in.

    Turning the heating element out took my longest 1/2 inch drive bar and a lot of oomph. Either the heating element was tightened in way beyond spec (27 N-m) or the sealant was really strong. I put it back in to spec and 27 N-m is not very tight. I found both of the bolts on the adapter flange not tightened to spec, also 27 N-m. They may have loosened up as I was turning out the element. So I tightened them.

    I found Loctite PST 592 thread sealant at my JD dealer. Says it's for high temp radiator applications. I asked the parts guy if this was the right stuff for my job. He said he was unaware that they carried it and didn't know. I read the package and concluded it was. The tip on this tube of sealant was really well-designed. It provided very thorough coverage of the threads with no overage. I also used this sealant on the coolant drain port on the engine. No leaks. I would buy this stuff again.

    I measured the resistance of the new element at 35 ohms. This seemed low to me. It's pretty hard to see with the element installed, but the wattage is stamped on the edge of the head (where the socket contacts it). I was surprised that it is 400 watts. I only use this for about 10 minutes at a time, but I've heard of some people who leave it plugged in much longer. This is a lot of juice. I did the math to confirm that my measurement was consistent with the markings:

    R = V^2/P = 120 X 120 / 400 = 36.

    I won't leave this heater plugged in any longer than I have to. I've found that 5 minutes is enough to pretty much eliminate the smoking at startup.


    Keane
    You used the right stuff. lol
    BigJim55 likes this.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to H-D dealer dude For This Useful Post:

    keane (08-22-2016)

  11. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:38 PM
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    920
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 372 Times in 195 Posts

    Coolant Heater has failed again

    I installed the replacement heater on August 10. It has failed again, open circuit like last time. It hasn't been very cold, so I've probably used it less than 5 times since installation. No more than 10 minutes per time, if that. I picked it up a few days before I installed it, so it will be close if JD will cover it under parts warranty. I'll be talking to them tomorrow.

    I've tried to consider all the possibilities that might have caused this second failure:

    1) Manufacturing defect in heater element.
    2) Improper installation.
    3) Excessive voltage applied.
    4) Power applied to heating element when it's not submerged in liquid.

    I'm not high on #2 as a possibility; the installation was very straightforward, and I didn't install the first one that failed.
    I checked the power outlet used and the line voltage is normal. It is rural power and we get spikes sometimes, but those are momentary and should have not much effect on a heater.
    I ran the engine the prescribed amount of time and re-checked the coolant reservoir after putting the coolant back in and before testing the heater. I don't know how the element could not be submerged in coolant. The heater did work about a total of 30 minutes. I don't think it would last that long if for some reason it were not submerged.

    I'm back to #1. Please add to my list if you have any ideas. Thanks.

    Keane
    BigJim55 likes this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  12. Top | #7
    Drifterbike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 01:40 PM
    Location
    Hampton Ill
    Posts
    2,715
    Thanks
    1,086
    Thanked 317 Times in 278 Posts
    I don't have any clue why. But I recall reading on one of the threads here that either Autozone or O'Riellys had the same heater just a longer cord about 1/3 the Deere price. If you have to pay I hope this helps.
    Last edited by Drifterbike; 11-04-2016 at 09:41 PM. Reason: Spelling
    BigJim55 and keane like this.
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Drifterbike For This Useful Post:

    keane (11-04-2016)

  14. Top | #8
    AJgrn78's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:16 PM
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    1,268
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 92 Times in 85 Posts
    All I can think of, have you ever started the engine while it was plugged in?

    My understanding is that the vibration will destroy the element when it is hot... Otherwise I have no idea

    I've used my JD block heater probably 10 times, at about 30 minutes each time, as far as I know it still works
    BigJim55, keane and Drifterbike like this.

  15. The Following User Says Thank You to AJgrn78 For This Useful Post:

    keane (11-05-2016)

  16. Top | #9
    coaltrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:57 PM
    Location
    NW Penna
    Posts
    20,214
    Thanks
    1,099
    Thanked 3,112 Times in 2,274 Posts
    Kind of related but something to think about - are you starting the tractor with the heater plugged in?

    We had an episode at work with our Mack Trucks. Guys were starting the trucks and then unplugging them. With these certain Macks, the coolant heater was up high on the block. What it turned out to be that when you started the engine, it was just a moment of lack of coolant at the heater - as the coolant started to flow there was a second or two when there was no coolant submerging the heater.
    Tomfive and keane like this.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

  17. The Following User Says Thank You to coaltrain For This Useful Post:

    keane (11-05-2016)

  18. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:38 PM
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    920
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 372 Times in 195 Posts

    No Starting with Heater Plugged in

    I haven't started the tractor with the heater plugged in. Somebody suggested in another thread to loop the extension cord for the heater through the steering wheel to prevent driving out with the heater still plugged in. I've used this practice and it also keeps you from starting up with it plugged in. Thanks for suggesting this as a possibility, though. I can see where this could be a problem.

    I have started the tractor right after unplugging the heater, and the element could still be pretty hot for a bit. I think I'll wait a minute or so in the future. I don't want to wait too long or the engine will cool off and defeat the whole reason behind having a heater.
    Last edited by keane; 11-05-2016 at 11:02 PM.
    coaltrain likes this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  19. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •