Consensus on configuration for MAXIMUM cross hill stability when mowing?
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Thread: Consensus on configuration for MAXIMUM cross hill stability when mowing?

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    Consensus on configuration for MAXIMUM cross hill stability when mowing?

    Hi guys -

    Money is not an object here with this question. It's really a configuration question. I don't want to configure this swiss army knife with this one mowing problem so it's not easily usable for all the other things I plan for it.

    Problem - I'm mowing a 25% grade with my 1025R with 60"MMM. I can go up the grade and back down the grade and feel safe - but it's slow and a pain. I have successfully cross grade cut the area by going really SLOW and CAREFUL with just the MMM and in 4WD. But is is a pucker exercise. I want to get back to cross grade cutting and not be totally stressed.. I used to cross grade cut on my old mower a JD D140 mower, I would sit on the uphill side of the mower (I bypassed the seat disconnect) and used extensive weight shifting. But that is not really possible on this beast. I don't see me cutting with the back hoe on and doing anything fancy with the bucket. Let's keep it SIMPLE and as operator proof as possible. You can see in my signature I already have a lot of gear. I don't mind buying more. For instance - should I buy:

    1. Wheel spacers (how wide?, front rear?)
    2. Starter wheel weights and more wheel weights
    3. Rim guard (dealer said he would do this free but advised against it initially)
    4. Ballast box
    5. Heavy hitch
    6. More suitcase weights

    If you had to rank from "most value for the stability dollar" for cross grade cutting? What would it be? How would you configure the tractor? And if you want to punt and tell me to go buy a mower for this one section - that's OK too.

    Thank you valuable friends!!!!
    Levi likes this.
    2016 1025r FLB, H120 FEL, 260 BH, 12 suitcase weights, front bracket, 2 BM17973 and 2 BM17972 I-Match, 60"MMM with Mulch Kit, JD receiver hitch, Frontier Box Blade, Frontier Tiller, Frontier 48 Inch forks, JD Rotary Cutter, JD LP22886 Sprayer, Tractor Supply PHD 6, 9, and 12 inch augers, EA Root Grapple, Artillian 3rd function kit, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and receiver, BxPanded (Toothbar, Thumb, Quick-On, Trencher, Ripper, Dolly, and receiver hitch), HH 2" weight bracket

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    I mow some steep side slopes and I haven't found a way to feel totally comfortable in this style tractor either. Feels too top heavy. I have loaded tires, wheel weights front and rear. I also mow with the loader on, bucket low nearly dragging to prevent roll overs. Still had some close calls, not sure on the grade I mow. I don't normally use a ballast box while mowing but that might help if kept low enough but I find I end up tearing up sections of lawn with it on by it hitting the ground and reduced weight on the front causing under steer.


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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Can't believe your dealer advised against rim guard

    Anyway I bought my wheel spacers from Motorsport Technology (775) 351-1000
    Email: [email protected]
    Fax: (775) 351-1600
    Lenny was contact.
    Smallest thickness is 1 1/4" I think he could make. I only have the spacers and rear wheel weights. They made a big difference IMO .Others have rim guard and wheel weights. I can mow my back yard across and on slope. A few places I will only mow up and down if it is 25% probably safer with up and down and maybe a slight angle instead of what you had been mowing.
    The time I mowed mine drove out across the yard ,stopped tractor got off on the upper side and pushed the side of the tractor to see if it would rock. Nope felt fine no movement, got back on, mowed the yard at a slow speed. Over the years the speed has increased but still not as fast as mowing on level by no means but not a slow craw. Better to be safe than sorry, never know when a rock or tree root will make the tractor tip.
    Also hoping you are using L mowing up and down the grade and 4WD, my back yard is all slope some areas steeper than others.

    Noticed you mentioned ballast box but I didn't read if you had a FEL. If you have a FEL by all means you need a ballast box.

    Me I do not leave my FEL on while mowing, have tried it with and without the bucket on . IMO not worth the hassle of leaving it on and didn't feel as comfortable .
    Last edited by etcallhome; 08-26-2016 at 03:27 PM. Reason: forgot "bought my wheel spacers"
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    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
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    JKR
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    When I had my 1025R I added 2" wheel spacer's and wheel weights with loaded tires. Then I added a Inclinometer
    https://www.amazon.com/Company-201-F.../dp/B00042K694

    I never went over 30 to 35 degrees . Yes it felt like it was going to tip over but after a few time you get use to it. Please go slow. sometimes it's not the angle
    but the sudden drop on the ground that will cause the tractor to roll over.
    Once you know your ground you my go a little faster but again look out for the dips.

    I now mow the hill with my 3033R with 4" wheel spacer , loaded tires and wheel weights. The key is to have weight low to the ground and a wide wheel base.

    I live in N.Y and the town garage is only one mile from my house. I ask them how they set up there tractor for mowing steep hills. They cut hill I wouldn't walk on.
    They told me what to do. The wider the wheel base and as much low weigh as you can.
    3033R, HST, 3SVC, 60" heavy bucket with replaceable blade, H165 loader, Trans and engine heater, 60" tow behind mower.
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    Quote Originally Posted by green02crew View Post
    I also mow with the loader on, bucket low nearly dragging to prevent roll overs. Still had some close calls, not sure on the grade I mow.
    Having the loader on actually increases your the height of your center of gravity unless you have a lot of weight in the bucket.
    ~Stan~
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    I agree with Coaltrain. Do not have your loader on. It significantly increases your COG height. The belly mower is some of the best heaviest and lowest ballast you can get. Fill your rear tires, get wheel weights and spacers for maximum hill holding capabilities. Beyond that and you're just asking for too much from it.

    Don't forget, ROPS up, seatbelt on. This guy had his seatbelt on and it saved his neck.

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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    I really hate to say this, but it's my immediate first thought, so I will. My opinion is that if mowing up and down the slope is the safest way, then that's what should be done, even if it's "slow and a pain". Sorry to be the party pooper.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColonyPark View Post
    I really hate to say this, but it's my immediate first thought, so I will. My opinion is that if mowing up and down the slope is the safest way, then that's what should be done, even if it's "slow and a pain". Sorry to be the party pooper.
    When I thought about this afterwards, this was going to be my exact post.
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    I mow with a 62" MMM on a 2720. One of my hills is a very steep grade, and I used to cut it up and down. Then I went and built a fence at the toe of the slope. I actually busted the amber lense on the rollbar lights a couple weeks ago mowing next to the fence (tractor leaned over next to posts). Now I only mow the hillside a few times a year, and I nose down to the fence and back up in 4WD.
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Having the loader on actually increases your the height of your center of gravity unless you have a lot of weight in the bucket.
    The reason I leave the bucket on is not for center of gravity, it is for rollover prevention. The rear wheels are the only solid axle. Running the bucket low as possible, nearly dragging, can stop the tractor from rolling if/when the rear downhill tire goes into a hole etc. I keep one hand on the loader controls at all times, if I feel I'm getting tippy I drop the bucket, it acts as a solid axle in the front so you now have two solid axles on the ground not just one. It's a failsafe and gives you the option to then safely back out. Most of us also have buckets wider than the tractor, it actually works rather well and has saved me from some bad hills that I had no option but to traverse across.


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