Ballast box height for optimum stability
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Thread: Ballast box height for optimum stability

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    Ballast box height for optimum stability

    Hi,

    I'm looking for some advice on moving dirt around using my 1025r. I don't have filled tyres or wheel weights, but I have the standard JD ballast box which I've got filled with concrete blend, so its quite heavy. I run the stock pressures in the non turf tyres.

    Anyway, after having the backhoe fitted, I get a bit nervous now as the seat is higher, particularly when I'm travelling over uneven terrain, as the tractor leans a bit going around the paddock.

    At the moment I'm moving a lot of dirt, so with the ballast box attached, I've been getting around with the loader bucket low to the ground, and the ballast box as low as I can as well. That said, I'm wondering if that is the best way to go? is it better to have the bucket and ballast box up higher, or is as low as possible the best way to go? That makes more sense to me, but I thought I'd ask.

    Thanks very much.

    Regards,

    craby

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    Keep everything as low as possible. Be very careful when lifting the bucket while on a slope. I don't know what the go-no go angle would be, but for me, it is not much. You can get in trouble fast if lifting high with a load. Run your stabilizers' almost down on the backhoe if you much of a slope.

    And the seat should return to the low elevation when you turn it forward. If not, you've probably broken the linkage which is common. It returns back to the low elevation when you tilt the seat forward. Takes a little finagling,
    rtgt likes this.
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    D130 JD Lawn Tractor, Polaris Ranger 400, 18' Gator Made Lowboy Trailer,

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    craby (09-05-2016)

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    When I use my FEL or Grapple on my 2210 it all depends on the terrain and how much weight is hanging off the front end of the tractor. If I am on a slope then I usually drop my bucket down as low as I can. On flat terrain I tend to raise it but keep it lower than the height of my hood just in case I need to drop it quickly. If I had a lot of debris with the grapple I will sometimes run the load high in order to make sure I do not run over branches etc hanging off the grapple. If I do that then I really make sure the load is not that heavy because it makes things tippy. I run suitcase weights in the back and even though I have 8 of them, I need more. I generally have the weights all the way up or maybe mid height otherwise I end up dragging it in the dirt. If I have it low and I back up then it usually strikes the ground causing more problems then it solves. However, I will lower it if I think I need the weight down low. It is all situation dependent.

    The biggest thing when moving loads is to think before you do and to go slow when needed. You need to constantly assess the risk of the task at hand and then determine how to mitigate it to a comfortable level or don't do it. Not doing something on the tractor is always a choice. Some times people forget that.
    rtgt likes this.

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    As the others have said, slow down, ballast box close to the ground and bucket low to the ground ,both almost dragging if on a very much slope.

    Been helping BIL trying to level a area for a swimming pool, on a hill side. It's been a challenge at times , with BH on always moving the boom right or left depending on direction of travel.

    Slow slow , keep your hand on FEl control and be safe,,,OH if you don't have a steering wheel knob spinner buy one ,makes your job so much easier.
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    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    craby (09-05-2016)

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    I cannot think of any reason to raise the ballast box or loader, other than to clear an obstacle. I think it is safe to say that stability will always be decreased when weight is raised. Keep all weight as low as you can, just short of affecting operations.
    etcallhome and rtgt like this.
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    When I upgraded from a 1023E to a 1025R FILB, I had the same feeling of instability due to the seat height. I never really got used to it before I traded up to the 4105.

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    craby (09-05-2016)

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    Hi again,

    Thanks everyone for your good advice. I'll definitely double check the seat height, but it otherwise it sounds like I'm doing it right. It's just a bit disconcerting when I'm driving through the paddock and go over a rock or branch and it starts to lean, but as you've all said, taking it slow and steady is the way to go. It really feels like it could go over in an instant, but that feeling is certainly more pounced after the BH was fitted and the seat raised. In reality its probably okay, but I just wanted to check in case I was doing it arse about.

    Regards,

    craby

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Just adding one more thing , and hoping you and others know this. No real sharp turns on a slope with fel and ballast box on.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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