Accessory switch installation advice needed for LED LIGHT INSTALLS for 1025 ?
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    Accessory switch installation advice needed for LED LIGHT INSTALLS for 1025 ?

    I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

    I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

    PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


    I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

    I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

    Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

    I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

    Not sure what to do from here.

    I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

    Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck switch cover is located?

    I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

    Thanks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20160912_140319.jpg   20160912_140229.jpg  
    Last edited by JoeFriday1979; 09-12-2016 at 01:31 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday1979 View Post
    I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

    I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

    PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


    I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

    I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

    Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

    I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

    Not sure what to do from here.

    I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

    Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck switch cover is located?

    I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

    Thanks.
    I did the same thing as you to get an idea of what to do. Access that I required was not elegant and wasn't going to not last all day without some level of broken parts or maladjusted parking brakes so I opted not to.

    I ended up putting my switch right on the knockout panel. My mounting for the switch required a 1/2" round hole so I just drilled out the center of the knockout and installed it there.

    I don't think you will have any issues getting a couple side-by-side on either either side of the knockout. If you reach in with your fingers you can feel there is a substantial amount of room. While I prefer the rocker switches that mount in a rectangular hole, I have no complaints over the mounting option I chose (round hole). It is in a fairly innocuous position so the strength of the switch seems to be fine for this application.
    JoeFriday1979 likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBarn View Post
    I did the same thing as you to get an idea of what to do. Access that I required was not elegant and wasn't going to not last all day without some level of broken parts or maladjusted parking brakes so I opted not to.

    I ended up putting my switch right on the knockout panel. My mounting for the switch required a 1/2" round hole so I just drilled out the center of the knockout and installed it there.

    I don't think you will have any issues getting a couple side-by-side on either either side of the knockout. If you reach in with your fingers you can feel there is a substantial amount of room. While I prefer the rocker switches that mount in a rectangular hole, I have no complaints over the mounting option I chose (round hole). It is in a fairly innocuous position so the strength of the switch seems to be fine for this application.
    I popped out the 'dummy switch cover' for the mower deck button.... and could see inside a bit and stick my finger in the hole. In mine, their appears to be no space hardly for additional custom switches as there is plastic firewall parts everywhere except where the factory 'switch' location is.... there they have a nice hole access.

    Looks like I may have to put the 12" LED lightbar switch for the top of the ROPS there.... and then do a wireless remote for the rear facing lights and hang the keyfob on my keychain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday1979 View Post
    I popped out the 'dummy switch cover' for the mower deck button.... and could see inside a bit and stick my finger in the hole. In mine, their appears to be no space hardly for additional custom switches as there is plastic firewall parts everywhere except where the factory 'switch' location is.... there they have a nice hole access.

    Looks like I may have to put the 12" LED lightbar switch for the top of the ROPS there.... and then do a wireless remote for the rear facing lights and hang the keyfob on my keychain.

    Check out these switches as they have a very small footprint and are pretty beefy in terms of amps. You only need a 1/2" hole to mount them to. They have a bulkhead style fitting on the rear and the leads are all centrally located. The third lead is for a ground to power the light when switch is on. If you need extra room you can forgo the extra lead but honestly the one extra wire doesn't take up that much room.

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...rocker+switch#
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    Can you explain the third lug. What is the ground to power mean
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifterbike View Post
    Can you explain the third lug. What is the ground to power mean
    It is actually "ground to power the light" that is on the switch. When the switch is placed in the ON position there is an LED on the switch that lights up to tell you it is on. If you eliminate this ground it will not light up on the switch but will still power the accessory you have connected via the switch. This would only be an option if you needed the space occupied by the ground wire for other switches or other wires.
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    I was daunted by the amount of work to put my switch on the panel. So I mounted it to the black plastic cover under the right hand side of the seat. It's easy to find with gloved hands. I don't have a pic handy but I will try and get one.

    IowaGuy
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    Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks (KBOGH)
    2 front and 1 rear facing LED ROPS mounted

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    Quote Originally Posted by IowaGuy View Post
    I was daunted by the amount of work to put my switch on the panel. So I mounted it to the black plastic cover under the right hand side of the seat. It's easy to find with gloved hands. I don't have a pic handy but I will try and get one.

    IowaGuy
    IowaGuy - I would love to see a photo of your install.

    I considered mounting mine to either of the 'side' plastic trim pieces to left or right of the seat where other levers, etc are too.... but it seemed like they were more 'exposed' to the elements so-to-speak.... and I wasn't sure if that was a good idea or not for the switch. Although, I even thought about mounting it directly 'under' the front of the seat on the plastic panel that conceals the 'seat safety switch'.... seems like if that switch is safe... then a few toggles should be too.... but I would rather have them where they are easily visible.

    Let's see your solution! That may work for me. And thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday1979 View Post
    I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

    I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

    PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


    I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

    I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

    Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

    I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

    Not sure what to do from here.

    I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

    Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck s<script id="gpt-impl-0.97069042776989" src="https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/gpt/pubads_impl_107.js"></script>witch cover is located?

    I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

    Thanks.
    I'm guessing you passed on that switch location, because there is very little depth behind that area. I learned this when I was installing my Garage Door Opener switches. They were very shallow, requiring only 1/2" or so behind the plastic. Even with these shallow switches I had to do a little trimming behind the panel.



    There is room just to the right of the original switch location that could accommodate another.
    Last edited by Gator Bite; 12-21-2016 at 10:16 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gator Bite View Post
    I'm guessing you passed on that switch location, because there is very little depth behind that area. I learned this when I was installing my Garage Door Opener switches. They were very shallow, requiring only 1/2" or so behind the plastic. Even with these shallow switches I had to do a little trimming behind the panel.



    There is room just to the right of the original switch location that could accommodate another.
    Man I like the switches you installed for the garage door opener, that's slick and looks OEM
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