2305 Blowing F2 Fuse
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Thread: 2305 Blowing F2 Fuse

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    Question 2305 Blowing F2 Fuse

    Hello Guru's of the Green!
    I have scanned and tried suggestions from a couple forums for my issue. I have the tech manual and have tried as best I know to diagnose the electrical nightmare I've stuck in. Any help or suggestions will be attempted and reported on. Thank you in advance.

    Here we go:
    Background: I purchased 2005 2305 in Oct of 2014 with a possible issue of blown head gasket. Turned into a cracked head with #1 & #2 having cracks between the injection and intake ports. I enjoy getting grease under my nails and did get that fixed up $1200 in parts later.
    It had run great up until about 3 months ago (been struggling with diagnosing) when I had tried to move it for some errands in the yard. I had warmed it up for about 10 minutes before moving it about 30 feet and it quit. I turned the key off and turned it back on without trying to start. Noticed the fuel gauge did not move. I check under the hood quick and found the 15A fuse blown. I checked all others under and they were good. At this point I came to the forums. Checked the V4 diode, as well as all others, and found a couple that were bad and replaced them. Put another fuse in, turned the key on for the glow plugs, the fuel gauge moved, and I cranked it up. It started and ran for about 15 minutes. I then went to move it again and it blew the fuse again. I hit the forums again and tried to diagnose the K3 & K5 relays (replaced both), I changed the fuel filter (did have some water in the bottom) and fuse. Turned the key on, gauge moved, plugs warmed up, and it started up again. Warmed up about 10 minutes again and tried to move and it died again after about 30 feet. I was wondering if it was related to extra stress from turning the steering wheel or raise the 3pt hitch. There were a couple attempts between the 1st and this last attempt that seemed to point that direction. This last attempt includes replacing the fuel shutoff solenoid, fuel shutoff timer and fuel shutoff relay. I have rechecked all the diodes (7). The seat switch is by-passed for testing. The PTO is off, not used since I've owned it. The replaced parts include many 15A fuses, K3, K5, A1, K2 & Y2. The only part I have not tested (or found yet) is the neutral safety switch.

    I have tried to follow everything in the schematics that touch the F2 fuse. Not sure where else to turn, unless I got a bad safety relay from the shop (K3 or K5). Will try to find the neutral safety and test, but would like some more thoughts, if there is something I may have missed.

    Thank you again for any assistance.

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    RandyM's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are trying pretty hard to work through the issue. With out looking I am not sure what the F2 fuse controls and at this point I'd suggest tracing all of the wires connected to it for a short. Sounds like there is a wire that maybe grounding out somewhere when you go to move the machine.

    Welcome to GTT. Good luck with you hunt.
    Randy __________________________________________________ ___ Be Safe!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyM View Post
    Sounds like you are trying pretty hard to work through the issue. With out looking I am not sure what the F2 fuse controls and at this point I'd suggest tracing all of the wires connected to it for a short. Sounds like there is a wire that maybe grounding out somewhere when you go to move the machine.

    Welcome to GTT. Good luck with you hunt.
    Thanks Randy,
    In looking at the schematics, I've tried to trace the components, which is the reason for the testing and/or replacements in that list. The F2 is tied to the fuel and safety systems.
    I'll physically trace everything from the battery back and clean/inspect everything.
    I need to get this going before snow flies in the UP of Michigan. I need the new blower attached and running.
    I so dislike electrical issues.
    Dean
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    RandyM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UP.EagleEye View Post
    Thanks Randy,
    In looking at the schematics, I've tried to trace the components, which is the reason for the testing and/or replacements in that list. The F2 is tied to the fuel and safety systems.
    I'll physically trace everything from the battery back and clean/inspect everything.
    I need to get this going before snow flies in the UP of Michigan. I need the new blower attached and running.
    I so dislike electrical issues.
    Dean
    Dean,

    I am with ya, I hate electrical problems and troubleshooting them. Thank you for the update. Let us know what you find, I may have to keep an eye out for the same issue. I am rooting for ya.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    Randy __________________________________________________ ___ Be Safe!

    2009 - 2305 w/62 MMM **** 2008 - 2520 w/72 MMM **** 200CX w/49 bucket
    Weight Box w/extension ***** LandPride RTR 1558 Tiller ******* 54 Snow blower
    60 Gallon Demco Sprayer *** 60 Broom ** BB2060 Box Blade**SS2036B Spreader
    Everything Attachments ETA-PluggerV2-60 Aerator

    The more I learn, the less I know.

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    If F2 is for safety systems and it runs until you go to move it, I'd look for a short in the seat sensor.

    (err n/m, on re-reading I see you've got it bypassed)
    Last edited by Spackle; 10-05-2016 at 08:18 AM.
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    Sorry for the slow updates guys, but life is just getting in the way of my Deere.
    I have removed and cleaned the ground connections from battery to frame, frame to engine and frame to harness under the cowling near the regulator. I had started him up and all seems good at the moment. I have not tried full throttle and under load yet.. still gun-shy. I'll keep pressing the tests and update.
    I do want to thank the great contributors and comments that have helped me troubleshoot as much as I have.

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    cwlumbra's Avatar
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    Not that I own a 2305 but was reading thru the forum at work (things are slow today) and noticed this entry. I always like reading up on the electrical ones. Usually learn a thing or 2 most times.

    Anyways, I agree with what Randy had said in an earlier post where it sounds like you have a wire that is shorting out. I then read where you checked all your ground connections. Thats always good to check and make sure you have good ground connections but I believe the wires you want to be checking are the power source lines for the items that are fed by F2. If a power source line is intermittently shorting out against the frame it will blow your fuse. If a gnd wire is shorting out against gnd or the frame, well you get the picture, its not going to blow a fuse because its suppose to be shorted to the frame. I usually look for poor ground connections when a component isn't working properly (low voltage) or doesn't work at all (open circuit). You on the other hand are chasing a shorted circuit that is blowing a fuse. I'd take a look at your power lines for all the components on the F2 circuit.
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    Craig

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    cwlumbra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwlumbra View Post
    Not that I own a 2305 but was reading thru the forum at work (things are slow today) and noticed this entry. I always like reading up on the electrical ones. Usually learn a thing or 2 most times.

    Anyways, I agree with what Randy had said in an earlier post where it sounds like you have a wire that is shorting out. I then read where you checked all your ground connections. Thats always good to check and make sure you have good ground connections but I believe the wires you want to be checking are the power source lines for the items that are fed by F2. If a power source line is intermittently shorting out against the frame it will blow your fuse. If a gnd wire is shorting out against gnd or the frame, well you get the picture, its not going to blow a fuse because its suppose to be shorted to the frame. I usually look for poor ground connections when a component isn't working properly (low voltage) or doesn't work at all (open circuit). You on the other hand are chasing a shorted circuit that is blowing a fuse. I'd take a look at your power lines for all the components on the F2 circuit.
    One more thought on this besides doing a visual on the power side wires is you can also start removing the F2 circuits that you can 1 by 1 that will still allow you to run the tractor. There may be some ckts that you can't remove and start tractor but save those for last. For those ckts, replace them with a made up jumper wire (correct gauge). If you were to do that you would have to remove the original wire on each end (power side & load side) otherwise if both sides were not removed the wire could still be energized and possibly short out because it would be getting power from the new tempoary jumper wire. You wouldn't have to pull the wire out, just remove from power side and load side and bypass with your temporary jumper.

    Good Luck to you!
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    Craig

    John Deere 1026R - 2012
    54D Mowing Deck w/Auto Connect
    H120 FEL w/KBOH
    47" QH Snowblower w/linear actuator
    54" QH Blade w/Artillian Rubber Edge
    Heavy Hitch Bracket w/receiver & cart
    HH Quick attach Front Weight Bracket
    Lawn sweeper (left over from 420)
    Dump Cart (left over from 420)
    Loaded Turf Tires with Wheel Weights & Chains
    Most important item - Tech Manual
    ***********************************
    Previously, 26yr owner of JD 420 w/mowing deck, & blade
    Tech Manual for 420

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