Tranny drain plug leak
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    userjh160's Avatar
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    Tranny drain plug leak

    Anyone have issues with a leak at the drain plug after a transmission service? I did mine over the weekend, the plug was stupid tight. I'm not a small fellow, and it took just about everything I had on a regular socket wrench to get it broken loose. I tightened it back up just about as tight as I dared and noticed yesterday a very small leak from the plug area. I'm going to try to torque it just a little more, but I'm afraid the washer may have been damaged with the dealer re-installation at the 50 hour service, and I definitely don't want to strip anything. Really not wanting to have to remove it, but if I must, I must. Anybody know the actual torque value offhand? Thanks in advance. 1025R, 141 hours.
    2017 3038E; RC2048, 4' Box Blade, Forks, 5' Rear Blade, 2017 Z920M

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    I'm not sure if the 1025R has a crush washer or just a normal washer on the drain plug. I would try just giving it another little nudge of tightening and see if the leak stops.

    The manual only says "Install and tighten drain plug" - no torque specs. You gotta love it. This is one thing I dislike about aluminum blocks and housings. You never know how much to tighten the drain plugs. My experience has been like yours. They are always stupid tight when you go to remove the plug.

    Drain plugs with crush washers are even worse. On my Honda generator, even with a new crush washer it will weep oil until you tighten it to what seems like 1 ft-lb prior to stripping. I wish they would give torque specs for the drain plugs and take all the guess work out of it.
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    I found this in the back of the 1025R manual...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have no idea what Class the drain plug bolt is. Assuming Class-7 (lowest on chart) and lubricated (it has oil on the threads) the chart recommends 69.6 ft-lb. That seems pretty tight. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable going that tight.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    userjh160's Avatar
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    I doubt I put 70lbs on it with an 8 inch wrench, and i too think thats probably too much for aluminum. My buell has an aluminum swingarm and the oil drain plug only takes 26 lbs. I'm gonna see if I can nudge it just a tad this evening and see what that does. Weird there's no torque value, I thought I overlooked it.

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    Before I would tighten it any more, I would remove it, put a new O ring on it and tighten it hand tight and then a quarter turn max.. There is no need for that plug to be 70 ft lbs........The tranny case bolts that hold the covers on and halves together aren't more than 35 ft pounds in many cases......

    Recently, a local "Quick Change" auto oil change shop in our area has damaged three friends cars by over tightening the drain plugs with an 18 volt impact. The result, a cracked oil pan in EVERY CASE. One friend had his Mercury Milan oil pan cracked and then his daughters Ford whatever is the same as his Milan was also cracked. He took both vehicles in on the same day. I think he said the oil pan was $450 plus labor......
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 10-05-2016 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Added info
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    Well, I got another quarter turn before it dead stopped. That's as far as I'm going. If that doesn't work, new washer it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Before I would tighten it any more, I would remove it, put a new O ring on it and tighten it hand tight and then a quarter turn max..
    The parts list does not show an O-ring. Just the drain plug and washer.
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    Mine also had a drop or 2 for a week or so, then it quit.

    My avatar is screwed up, I'm driving down hill
    Last edited by BWG56; 10-05-2016 at 06:14 PM.
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    Nope, no o ring, just a washer. Man, I'm not lucky enough to have it quit on its on. More likely it would dump the whole thing overnight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    I found this in the back of the 1025R manual...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	torque_specs.jpg 
Views:	29 
Size:	130.1 KB 
ID:	247481

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	M811712.jpg 
Views:	138 
Size:	20.8 KB 
ID:	247489

    I have no idea what Class the drain plug bolt is. Assuming Class-7 (lowest on chart) and lubricated (it has oil on the threads) the chart recommends 69.6 ft-lb. That seems pretty tight. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable going that tight.
    Another interesting question is "What class are the threads in the pan?" The missing torque spec should consider both parts in the connection and be set to protect the weaker of the two. You can get in trouble using a general table for the bolt and not considering the threads.
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