1025r Due For Service
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Thread: 1025r Due For Service

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    1025r Due For Service

    I just went over 50 hours. I plan on changing hydraulic oil and engine oil, and I'm curious if people think it's worth the extra $$$ to go to the dealer and by all OEM filters and fluids, or should I go to tractor supply?

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    ilmo's Avatar
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    I buy everything from my dealer, with the exception of engine oil. I use Rotella T6 for that.
    2013 1025R
    (Oct. 1, 2013 Used with 20hrs.)
    H120 loader -- 60D AutoConnect MMM --Frontier RB2060 blade -- Modified RIO -- Northstar Sprayer -- Fimco Spreader -- Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks.
    "Kitty" 2000-2014

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    Tomfive's Avatar
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    For my first hydraulic (at 50 hrs) and engine oil (at 100 hrs) changes I used JD oils and filters. I switched to Rotella T6 for engine oil. I plan to use JD hydro oil and filters for the life of the tractor.

    As long as you use the correct rated fluids, it shouldn't matter, but that is your choice. For filters, I don't think the price difference is enough to go off brand.

    Just my 2 cents.
    etcallhome, bama1025r and ky_shawn like this.
    Tom

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    romcjr's Avatar
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    I used all JD filters and fluids including putting Break in oil back in the engine . Just my .02 .
    Ron
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    I just changed my transmission fluid and did quite a bit of research on here before I purchased the fluids. The general consensus seems to be to go with the Deere fluid. Feels better to me not to chance it. I did find the required hy-gard a few dollars per gallon cheaper online than my dealer cost.

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    My suggestion: Go with the Deere fluids & Filters until the warranty is out. Save your receipts and update your service interval log.
    Prevents arguments from the Moline Mother Ship should anything go wrong.


    After the warranty's out, use any fluid you want with the correct specs.
    Last edited by BetterThanATonka; 10-08-2016 at 07:31 AM.
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    Tom

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    ky_shawn's Avatar
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    I asked a couple independent mechanics around my area prior to servicing my tractor the first time and the answers I got was Deere or Rotella for engine and Deere hydraulic fluid/filter for hydrostatic drive protection. I used Deere fluids for the 3520 but I'm not knocking farm store fluids at all. The kubota I had before the Deere only had kubota fluids in it when it left the factory. From its first service on was Rotella engine oil and tractor supply hydraulic fluid. The tractor was still running strong with over 2000 hour, burned no engine oil, and hydrostat/hydraulics was strong. The Deere required a much larger investment over the previous kubota so between what I read on this site and the recommendations of the mechanics I spoke with, I decided the JD fluids was worth the expense to hopefully protect the investment.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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    Quote Originally Posted by romcjr View Post
    I used all JD filters and fluids including putting Break in oil back in the engine . Just my .02 .
    This is actually a very good point. Check your manual. On my 2032R the manual says to use break-in oil for the first 100 hours. Not sure what the 1025R manual says but if it says the same, then I'd stick with teh JD break-in oil for this change and then figure out what you want to do for your next change. It would suck to void your warranty over something this simple.
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    I used Deere stuff

    I used all Deere stuff for 50 hour service. One stop shopping was easier for me. Everything needed was really not that expensive. I didn't want to look up or research equivalent stuff. It would have been time and driving around to save minimal dollars. It was easier to pull up with my list and walk out with everything for a few dollars more. The dealer also has a record of my purchase. I would have had the dealer do it but they charge $75.00 each way for pick up and return because it's not warranty work and tractor would have been gone for a few days. I also wanted to learn about the tractor, see how more things work while underneath and I did it in 1/2 a day. Getting hose clamps off and sliding hose up to access the transmission screen was the biggest pain in the ass. Brought a John Deere grease gun while I was there and was happy with it. Real decent quality and had no problem getting to that one infamous zerk. Tip got on it from underneath.
    ky_shawn likes this.
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    Thanks everyone. I think I'll be making a trip to the John Deere dealer this weekend. And after some research I think I'll wait for 100 hours to change the oil... clean oil is always a good thing, but I figure you can't go wrong following the owners manual.
    Firemark and ky_shawn like this.

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