1025R - Question on Remove/Installation Procedure for Mid Mount Mower (Auto Connect)
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Like Tree16Likes

Thread: 1025R - Question on Remove/Installation Procedure for Mid Mount Mower (Auto Connect)

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:01 AM
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    186
    Thanks
    166
    Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts

    1025R - Question on Remove/Installation Procedure for Mid Mount Mower (Auto Connect)

    I am about to remove my Mid Mount Mower deck (Auto Connect D60) from my JD 1025R for the very first time.

    I have read through the instructions... and notice that the INSTALLATION calls for putting the PTO selector to the REAR ONLY PTO setting.

    Do I have to do that when REMOVING the mower deck as well?

    Other than that....

    AUTO CONNECT D60 MID-MOUNT MOWER REMOVAL STEPS

    1. Park machine on firm, flat surface.
    2. Ensure I have enough 'back-up' room to move my tractor completely off the deck in reverse.
    3. Lock Park Brake.
    4. Disengage Mower Blades.
    5. Release gage wheel locks and set height of cut control to INSTALL position.
    6. Lower mower deck to ground.
    7. Stop engine.
    8. Raise the rear deck LOCK LEVER to the UP position.
    9. Start engine and engage tractor to 4 WHEEL DRIVE in LOW RANGE
    10. Slowly back tractor off mower.
    11. Raise lift system fully and turn height of cut control to the LOCK position.
    12. Done.


    Is that it? Anything the manual didn't cover?

    AUTO CONNECT D60 MID-MOUNT MOWER INSTALLATION STEPS

    1. Set mower height control to the INSTALL position
    2. Raise handle to release lock on each gage wheel - ensuring mower is sitting firmly and flatly on level ground.
    3. Ensure that rear lock assembly is in the locked position.
    4. Lower mower lift arms using SCV or rockshaft lever control
    5. Shirt machine PTO selector to REAR PTO ONLY to allow the mid-PTO and driveshaft to turn freely and engage the mower gearbox with minimal resistance.
    6. Engage tractor MFWD (4 wheel Drive) and in LOW RANGE drive slowly up to deck, aligning outside of left front tire with inside edge of mower alignment bar
    7. Drive Tractor slowly and straight over tope plates on mower....and continue forward until the front draft link pivot pin fully engages wthe notches in the front suppor hangers and the mower starts to move worward with machine.
    8. Stop machine...engage PARK BRAKE.
    9. Stop the engine.
    10. Dismount and ensure the rear lock tab on each side of mower is 'RAISED' AND FIRMLY SEATED AGAINST THE REAR LIFT ARM ROD.
    11. Start engine and lift mower to highest position
    12. Adjust gage wheels as required for desired mowing height.
    13. Adjust HEIGHT-OF-C UT control back to desired setting..... lower mower.
    14. Done.



    Anything other than manual instructions noted above for installation?

    Thanks a bunch people!
    BetterThanATonka likes this.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    ilmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Southern IL
    Posts
    3,937
    Thanks
    271
    Thanked 1,034 Times in 669 Posts
    It is not necessary when removing the MMM. I have never moved the PTO selector to Rear PTO Only.

    I know I should when installing, but never remember to do it. I have not experienced any difficulty by not doing PTO Rear Only.
    Levi and spferdil like this.
    2013 1025R
    (Oct. 1, 2013 Used with 20hrs.)
    H120 loader -- 60D AutoConnect MMM --Frontier RB2060 blade -- Modified RIO -- Northstar Sprayer -- Fimco Spreader -- Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks.
    "Kitty" 2000-2014

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to ilmo For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-09-2016)

  5. Top | #3
    BetterThanATonka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Last Online
    08-02-2019 @ 05:58 AM
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    572
    Thanks
    122
    Thanked 141 Times in 80 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday1979 View Post
    I am about to remove my Mid Mount Mower deck (Auto Connect D60) from my JD 1025R for the very first time.

    I have read through the instructions... and notice that the INSTALLATION calls for putting the PTO selector to the REAR ONLY PTO setting.

    Do I have to do that when REMOVING the mower deck as well?

    A: Not needed, but won't hurt if you do it.

    Is that it? Anything the manual didn't cover?
    Anything other than manual instructions noted above for installation?

    A: That's it. I follow the manual instructions, haven't had any issues.
    I will say, I forgot #11 on removal once, now I double check it when ever I get on the tractor, regardless if the deck is on or not.


    Joe, responses are above in red. Any problems, give a shout.
    Levi and JoeFriday1979 like this.
    Tom

    2010 JD LA115 mower w/bagger
    2011 JD 10P dump cart
    2016 JD 1025R TLB: H120 loader w/ 49" bucket - 260 BH w/12" bucket - 60D MMM w/auto PTO - iMatch Quick Hitch
    Heavy Hitch toothbar | Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks | Ken's Seat Springs | Ken's Diff Pedal | Edge Tamers
    Frontier 2048 Box blade | Frontier LR2060L Landscape Rake
    2016 Cyclone Rake model Z-10

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to BetterThanATonka For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-09-2016)

  7. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  8. Top | #4
    ErikR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:29 PM
    Location
    Northern WI
    Posts
    696
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 205 Times in 124 Posts
    The only issue I've ever had was trying to do this on a concrete garage floor. The deck wanted to slide, a lot! I have the best results taking it off and on in my gravel driveway.

    I also don't bother to shut off the engine when I get off the tractor to flip the deck lock lever.

    Oh, if you have a loader on, don't forget to raise the bucket up so you don't hit the gear box with the bucket....
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

    1950 Allis-Chalmers B, Electric start, PTO, Belt Pulley, Hydraulic pump. Stuck engine (a work in progress)

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to ErikR For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-09-2016)

  10. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:16 PM
    Location
    Uniontown, Pa
    Posts
    249
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 39 Times in 31 Posts
    Once your deck is on the ground and you flip the lever you can roll the tractor back by hand if you want till the front tires touch the deck and then raise your lift arms and back off. You can also connect it by driving over, lowering the lift arms and rolling it forward by hand. That is how I connect/disconnect them after I set them up to check the auto connect adjustments and front draft rod adjustments. If it is adjusted good the lever should flip easy, our shop floor has the slightest grade so I sometimes have to rock the tractor a few millimeters forward to flip the lever with no resistance. If you come across any issues just ask
    Levi and JoeFriday1979 like this.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to JeffW For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-09-2016)

  12. Top | #6
    userjh160's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:14 PM
    Location
    North Louisiana
    Posts
    333
    Thanks
    158
    Thanked 50 Times in 23 Posts
    Ditto on the pto selector. I never remember to change mine and I haven't had a problem. My lock lever does tend to not stay open on its own. I have to push the spring up to where it catches over the little nut to hold it open.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    2017 3038E; RC2048, 4' Box Blade, Forks, 5' Rear Blade, 2017 Z920M

  13. Top | #7
    Firemark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Last Online
    Today @ 07:54 PM
    Location
    Millstone, N.J.
    Posts
    917
    Thanks
    68
    Thanked 186 Times in 110 Posts

    Mower dexk removal

    Make sure tractor is in 4 wheel, make sure mower Height dial is in install. Make sure scalp wheels are raised to the max. Park on or as close to level ground as you can get. Lower deck via rocker arm. Get off, flip the clip and drive off.

    Install, make sure hieght dial is back in install, make sure tractor is in 4 wheel. Drive over, listen for click, throw the rocker shaft lever to raise deck and drive home!

    It's not a perfect world. There have been times when I have had a few minor problems learning to understand the set up. Have stood on the deck on each side to press it in the grass due to in even ground. Dealers best advice is always make sure the tractor is in 4 wheel and favor the left hand side when driving over to mount up. It's makes a difference, stops deck from sliding when driving over, even on concrete. It mostly stops deck from shifting when mounting up or off. Have on rare occasions, gotten out, shifted the deck to make the clip flip. I eventually, took a fine file and touch up the edges on the clip instead of waiting for it to wear in.

    As you do it and have a few non perfect evolutions, it will help you learn the mechanics of how it works and assist you in understanding it.

    Have had issues with warrenty service due to one gets shifted to a different set of employees once sale is done. Service mgr at Central Jersey, Rich is a rock solid guy. He's ex-military, biker and a real good guy. Have gone to him with bumps in the road and he's great. Unfortunately, I quickly figured out that once the sale is done, warrenty work shifts to a dealer cooperate adjuster that battles JD to have them pay dealer for warrenty coverage. You have to be carefull how you present an issue. Adjuster is use to new owners bashing linkage, pounding the new rig and not reading manuals. damage and/or factory defects can easily get attributed to operator depending on how one presents with the problem or broken part. The better you learn your machine and understand how to explain damage or factory defect, the better off you are. When my piston side tie rod boot fell off after washing rig, I got help identifying part on forum. Contacted dealer, and she said if it's due to op damage its not covered. I took a pic, emailed adjuster and said," tears in boot are sideways and indicative to tie rod being tightened too much after boot was installed and are indicative of steering tears. I further said, " there is no blunt trauma marks or damage further demonstrating that it is indeed a factory F:;k up". Same with diff pedal linkage tune up, got under, took pics, emailed, created paper trail! Long story short, it's all getting fixed under warrenty. I feel bad for an owner who's not mechanically inclined who are at the whim and mercy of others.
    Hope it helps,
    Don
    Last edited by Firemark; 10-09-2016 at 06:12 PM.
    JoeFriday1979 likes this.
    2016-1025 FILB, 54" FEL, 54" Front Blower, 54" MMM, Brush Guards, Front and rear LED work lights
    BXpanded-backhoe thumb, bucket teeth, backhoe dolly
    Kens hooks w/ shackles (3 on Bucket), Diff Lock Pedal, backhoe steps
    Artillian Blinders
    Bush hog SBX 480 box blade, BX 600 box Blade
    Frontier LR2060L landscape Rake w/ gauge wheels, subsoiler
    Woods RBC 60 Rear Blade
    Land Pride QH-15 quick hitch
    Everything Attachments 60" Pine Needle Raked
    Garber Easy Seed 60" drop spreader

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to Firemark For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-09-2016)

  15. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:01 AM
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    186
    Thanks
    166
    Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
    Thanks a ton guys....

    I did it!

    Took me forever because I printed out the instructions and read each line and then followed the individual instruction... then read the next line.... etc. haha

    Only issue I had was reinstalling: I had my Rockshaft Lever (lever that raises and lowers the deck) Stop set back towards the rear in the slot about 1 1/2 inches.... so that my rear draft arms would not be so 'low' to the ground as I keep my Heavy Hitch installed and like it to be relatively level with my Utility Trailer hitch....... so, when I 'lowered' the Rockshaft Lever.... the autoconnect underneath didn't lower as low as it needed to be to mate up with the spline on the mower deck... I drove up over the deck.... and slowly moved forward till the deck moved forward a bit. I thought it was connected, but didn't hear the 'click' of the 'rear lock tab' like they describe it in all the videos....I got off the tractor to inspect it before taking off, thank goodness.... because I noticed it wasn't connected and the lower bolt on the front of the autoconnect was jammed against the lower part of the mower deck spline...the autoconnect was a fair distance above the spline.

    So, I quickly reversed back over the deck....

    I figured the misalignment was because I had the Rochshaft 'Stop' set to a higher position and it simply could not lower the autoconnect enough.... I moved the 'stop' all the way forward, and then lowered my Rockshaft lever to it's max low position.... and watched the autoconnect drop down further... Shazaam ! I then drove back over the deck... and when my front wheels got over and off the front side of the deck, I jumped off the tractor and took another look and the autoconnect was in perfect position to connect to the mower deck spline.... so I got back on and drove forward till the deck moved forward... got BACK OFF the tractor, and took another look. The autoconnect was perfectly engaged and the left/right rear lock tabs were clicked into position... so then I raised the deck, set the wheels ... and put the mower cutting height back to desired position. Tested to make sure the mower engaged - no problems... and cut a small section of lawn just to be sure everything worked.... and again, no problems. Got it!!

    Thanks a lot guys - I know this seems to basic to most of you....but the first time is a little bit intimidating... reminds me of...uh, nevermind - I won't go there. lol.

    I also got another practice shot at putting my front end loader back on. That went pretty well. Too easy!!
    OxPath, ilmo and BetterThanATonka like this.

  16. Top | #9
    ilmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Southern IL
    Posts
    3,937
    Thanks
    271
    Thanked 1,034 Times in 669 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriday1979 View Post
    Thanks a ton guys....

    I did it!

    Took me forever because I printed out the instructions and read each line and then followed the individual instruction... then read the next line.... etc. haha

    Only issue I had was reinstalling: I had my Rockshaft Lever (lever that raises and lowers the deck) Stop set back towards the rear in the slot about 1 1/2 inches.... so that my rear draft arms would not be so 'low' to the ground as I keep my Heavy Hitch installed and like it to be relatively level with my Utility Trailer hitch....... so, when I 'lowered' the Rockshaft Lever.... the autoconnect underneath didn't lower as low as it needed to be to mate up with the spline on the mower deck... I drove up over the deck.... and slowly moved forward till the deck moved forward a bit. I thought it was connected, but didn't hear the 'click' of the 'rear lock tab' like they describe it in all the videos....I got off the tractor to inspect it before taking off, thank goodness.... because I noticed it wasn't connected and the lower bolt on the front of the autoconnect was jammed against the lower part of the mower deck spline...the autoconnect was a fair distance above the spline.

    So, I quickly reversed back over the deck....

    I figured the misalignment was because I had the Rochshaft 'Stop' set to a higher position and it simply could not lower the autoconnect enough.... I moved the 'stop' all the way forward, and then lowered my Rockshaft lever to it's max low position.... and watched the autoconnect drop down further... Shazaam ! I then drove back over the deck... and when my front wheels got over and off the front side of the deck, I jumped off the tractor and took another look and the autoconnect was in perfect position to connect to the mower deck spline.... so I got back on and drove forward till the deck moved forward... got BACK OFF the tractor, and took another look. The autoconnect was perfectly engaged and the left/right rear lock tabs were clicked into position... so then I raised the deck, set the wheels ... and put the mower cutting height back to desired position. Tested to make sure the mower engaged - no problems... and cut a small section of lawn just to be sure everything worked.... and again, no problems. Got it!!

    Thanks a lot guys - I know this seems to basic to most of you....but the first time is a little bit intimidating... reminds me of...uh, nevermind - I won't go there. lol.

    I also got another practice shot at putting my front end loader back on. That went pretty well. Too easy!!
    In the highlighted blue print of your post, when you get off the tractor the first time, this is where I just roll the tractor forward by hand and you can watch everything from the ground. Very easy to do on a concrete floor, and saves you from getting back on the tractor a second time to make the latch connection.
    ViCa$h likes this.
    2013 1025R
    (Oct. 1, 2013 Used with 20hrs.)
    H120 loader -- 60D AutoConnect MMM --Frontier RB2060 blade -- Modified RIO -- Northstar Sprayer -- Fimco Spreader -- Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks.
    "Kitty" 2000-2014

  17. The Following User Says Thank You to ilmo For This Useful Post:

    JoeFriday1979 (10-10-2016)

  18. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last Online
    01-26-2019 @ 12:01 AM
    Location
    finger lakes, ny
    Posts
    424
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 45 Times in 38 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by userjh160 View Post
    Ditto on the pto selector. I never remember to change mine and I haven't had a problem. My lock lever does tend to not stay open on its own. I have to push the spring up to where it catches over the little nut to hold it open.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    I've had this issue. I pulled apart the latch mechanism, and thoroughly cleaned and greased the points. Now its smooth as butter.
    userjh160 likes this.

  19. The Following User Says Thank You to lewisc1985 For This Useful Post:

    userjh160 (10-10-2016)

  20. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •