Artillian 3rd valve wiring
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Thread: Artillian 3rd valve wiring

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    Artillian 3rd valve wiring

    I'm getting up the nerve to install my Artillian 3rd valve kit to my 1026r. I think I have everything figured out except some of the wiring (I'm challenged in that area). I would like to run the switch wire up through the joystick boot, but I don't think the boot will stretch enough, I don't want to tear it. Any suggestions and pics would be welcome.
    Also, I'm planning to run the power directly from the battery terminals. Is there any problems with that?
    Another question is about the electric disconnect plug and it's location. I'm assuming that it goes under the floorboard next to the current loader hydraulic couplings, correct?

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    There should be decent instructions for a 1 series. I put mine on a 2210 and since Chris didn't design it for that tractor, I had to make some modifications. Does your 1 series come with an auxiliary power port, you can just plug it in. Mine did not so I spliced it into the hot wire going into the ignition switch. Seems to work fine there. I guess you could put it on the battery but that is a lot of wire running underneath and thru the tractor. I did not think it was a good idea to do that on my tractor. It very easy to splice into the hot wire going to the ignition switch though.

    I think you would be able to run it up thru the rubber boot but I would have to see it. I simply zip tied mine to the joy stick stalk as my joy stick doesn't have a rubber boot and goes through the seat deck to the control valve, I believe yours goes through the fender correct? I needed to do a better job because it moves around on me sometimes. As far as the disconnect below I put right next to the hoses but about 6-8 inches down stream of the hydraulic ports near where the floor board ends and my fuel filter sticks out. For my tractor it was the logical spot because it didn't interfere with the draft arms for my deck or the forward and reverse peddles. It also made it very easy for me to access it to unplug it, which I do on a regular basis so I can drop my FEL in order to mow my yard. If you do not ever anticipate removing the FEL then mount it wherever it is out of the way. What you do not want is for it to hang down so it gets caught on ground debris.

    The mounting of the diverter valve and the wiring of the electrical is a fairly simple process. The instructions are pretty good. I was able to interpret them to allow me to mount it on a tractor it wasn't designed for with few issues. When you mount the front disconnects make sure you mount in a secure location because the first clump of branches and debris you grab is going to start testing your hoses and quick disconnects. The hoses are pretty tough but you don't want to continually test their strength by getting them hung up on branches and debris.

    Good luck with the install!
    Levi likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by engraver View Post
    I'm getting up the nerve to install my Artillian 3rd valve kit to my 1026r. I think I have everything figured out except some of the wiring (I'm challenged in that area). I would like to run the switch wire up through the joystick boot, but I don't think the boot will stretch enough, I don't want to tear it. Any suggestions and pics would be welcome.
    Also, I'm planning to run the power directly from the battery terminals. Is there any problems with that?
    Another question is about the electric disconnect plug and it's location. I'm assuming that it goes under the floorboard next to the current loader hydraulic couplings, correct?
    If you don't want to stretch the boot around the control stick then you can go to the edge of the boot where it meets the plastic and run it through there as that is pretty loose fitting by comparison.
    Levi and BigJim55 like this.

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    Wiring

    Quote Originally Posted by 69project View Post
    There should be decent instructions for a 1 series. I put mine on a 2210 and since Chris didn't design it for that tractor, I had to make some modifications. Does your 1 series come with an auxiliary power port, you can just plug it in. Mine did not so I spliced it into the hot wire going into the ignition switch. Seems to work fine there. I guess you could put it on the battery but that is a lot of wire running underneath and thru the tractor. I did not think it was a good idea to do that on my tractor. It very easy to splice into the hot wire going to the ignition switch though.

    I think you would be able to run it up thru the rubber boot but I would have to see it. I simply zip tied mine to the joy stick stalk as my joy stick doesn't have a rubber boot and goes through the seat deck to the control valve, I believe yours goes through the fender correct? I needed to do a better job because it moves around on me sometimes. As far as the disconnect below I put right next to the hoses but about 6-8 inches down stream of the hydraulic ports near where the floor board ends and my fuel filter sticks out. For my tractor it was the logical spot because it didn't interfere with the draft arms for my deck or the forward and reverse peddles. It also made it very easy for me to access it to unplug it, which I do on a regular basis so I can drop my FEL in order to mow my yard. If you do not ever anticipate removing the FEL then mount it wherever it is out of the way. What you do not want is for it to hang down so it gets caught on ground debris.

    The mounting of the diverter valve and the wiring of the electrical is a fairly simple process. The instructions are pretty good. I was able to interpret them to allow me to mount it on a tractor it wasn't designed for with few issues. When you mount the front disconnects make sure you mount in a secure location because the first clump of branches and debris you grab is going to start testing your hoses and quick disconnects. The hoses are pretty tough but you don't want to continually test their strength by getting them hung up on branches and debris.

    Good luck with the install!
    I'll look at the ignition wiring and see if that will work for me. I thought that I could put the disconnect at the floor board because when not in use I have a "wrap around" piece of vinyl with velcro to keep everything from catching. I'll also take Eathling's suggestion about going around the boot.

    Thanks to both of you.
    Levi and BigJim55 like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by engraver View Post
    I'm getting up the nerve to install my Artillian 3rd valve kit to my 1026r. I think I have everything figured out except some of the wiring (I'm challenged in that area). I would like to run the switch wire up through the joystick boot, but I don't think the boot will stretch enough, I don't want to tear it. Any suggestions and pics would be welcome.
    Also, I'm planning to run the power directly from the battery terminals. Is there any problems with that?
    Another question is about the electric disconnect plug and it's location. I'm assuming that it goes under the floorboard next to the current loader hydraulic couplings, correct?
    Um, why try to stuff the large switch housing through the rubber boot from the bottom when you can easily push the small electrical connector down through from the top?

    Here is a finished installation. This one is an APP version The PTL version would not have the 12v wiring visible since it would be routed below the bodywork.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20161017_134812.jpg
    Levi, BigJim55 and Drifterbike like this.
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