Mower Adjustment Wear / Deck Dropping
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Thread: Mower Adjustment Wear / Deck Dropping

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    Mower Adjustment Wear / Deck Dropping

    My 1025R has only 41 hours on it, with less than 10 of those with the mower deck. Yesterday when I was mowing the deck dropped and I cut half my yard lower than I originally had set it at. If I raise / lower the deck, depending on how the knob is clicked into the position, the deck with drop to a lower height.

    I got under the tractor and the adjustment gear is already worn on the edge of the height setting I use. You can feel the metal curling over the edge. This is ridiculous for only a few hours. Is something out of adjustment or did I just end up with a faulty part? I did notice that when turning the knob to go to a lower setting it locks in on the small edge of the gear. If I then turn it slightly towards a higher setting it will hold on the larger part of the gear. Almost like the detent spring isn't strong enough to keep it in the center of the ledge. It also doesn't have full engagement as the wear is only on the edge and not across the entire ledge.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_6017.JPG  
    Last edited by rsw686; 10-19-2016 at 09:03 PM.
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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    it's a relatively poor design, the edges of the mower height cam on my tractor are getting a little gouged up too, I'm already anticipating having to fix it up with some weld and grinding at some point.

    I don't think there's anything you can adjust, but you make sure to always lift the deck before you turn the adjuster. when you lower it, you should check to make sure the mechanism is sitting flat on a step on the cam, and not just catching the edge of the next highest one.

    sorry I can't be of more help, I've also decided that if it gets bad, I will just set the height with the 3pt control stop. (if you have the mechanical lift)
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    I always lift the deck before turning the adjuster. I'll just have to make sure it is fully sitting on the flat surface. For a machine that's made to mow you think the design would be better. As it stands when installing the deck I always have to get my blade height gauge out to make sure I'm in the right detent as you can't really tell. I should have saved the $2k on the deck, spent more for a zero turn, and bought a 2 series tractor for everything else.

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    Until you get that sorted out you can use the position control lock to keep the mower deck from dropping - unless you paid extra to get hydraulic lift.
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    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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    I had the same thing happen to me. Mine was 2 years old. Had to replace the cam. Not sure that this cam and arm are designed very well.


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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with my mmm adjustment. I found the detent plate was rotating with the ajustment cam because the tab that retains the detent was not bent down. I positioned the detent plate and bent the tab down. Problem solved.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails MMM Hydraulic lift.jpg  
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    I had the same problem with my mmm adjustment. I found the detent plate was rotating with the ajustment cam because the tab that retains the detent was not bent down. I positioned the detent plate and bent the tab down. Problem solved.
    I had the same problem. Very bad design. John Deere should fix free
    r1025r, Curtis Hard Cab, 54D mid mount auto connect mower deck with mulch kit, ,54" front mount snow blower, H120 Loader, Heavy Hitch, Kens Bolt on Grab Hooks. Pallet Forks ,JD Ballast Box
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    Lube it

    The last time I had my tractor apart to where I could easily get to the cam, I used a brush to grease the crap out of all surfaces on it. I could not detect any lube on it before I did this. Metal against metal, especially where there will be a lot of rubbing (think going over bumps with the heavy MMM on) will wear pretty quickly if there's no lube. If lubing this is recommended in the manuals as part of preventive maintenance, I sure missed it.
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    Lubing Height of Cut mechanism

    I read this and sprayed a PTFE Teflon dry lube onto the entire mechanism to avoid collecting dirt and dust. It began to work beautifully, easy to turn and all. About 50 hours later it began to slip to lower heights, sometimes very quickly. I ended up adjusting the anti scalp rollers to their maximum down positions. This kept the MMM from dropping too far and allowing me a reasonable height of cut, roughly 2.75". I'm particular about the height as I'm a retired agronomist/golf course superintendent and want the best possible opportunity to grow healthy turf.

    I haven't called my service man at JD yet. I'm waiting on August and the doldrums of the growing season to do that. I hope some the info here will help explain the problem clearly and effectively. Thanks to all for the informative posts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsw686 View Post
    I always lift the deck before turning the adjuster. I'll just have to make sure it is fully sitting on the flat surface. For a machine that's made to mow you think the design would be better. As it stands when installing the deck I always have to get my blade height gauge out to make sure I'm in the right detent as you can't really tell. I should have saved the $2k on the deck, spent more for a zero turn, and bought a 2 series tractor for everything else.
    Once I had the blade height adjustments completed, I marked the dial in the height adjustment with a small permanent marker line for the two heights I cut at.
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