1025r Preparation for Winter Use
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    Tony20899's Avatar
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    1025r Preparation for Winter Use

    For all you cold weather 105R owners - This will be my first winter using the new 1025r tractor to move driveway snow. Have never owned a diesel engine before and was wondering what I need to prep for when running it in the winter.
    It will be stored in a non-heated garage/shed. Temperatures can get very cold -20F from time to time, but usually run +20F - -5F (5F - -25F wind chill) from December to February. Will only be used to remove larger snow falls using a blade, no blower.

    Do I need to put a fuel additive in the tank? If so what brand.
    It came with an engine heater, assume I plug this in and wait for some time (15 minutes?) then start it
    Cover the radiator to control cold air flow?
    Battery Tender - keep it plugged in.
    Tire Chains, rear only?
    Has break-in oil (15 hours on engine), so no plans to change it now

    What am I missing?
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    I keep mine in an unheated (but attached garage) which rarely drops below 35F in the winter.
    In addition to using Deere's winter fuel protect from November through March, I've found the
    best thing to do with the 1025R is cycle the glow plugs a few times before starting. This
    really cuts the shake & smoke at cold start.

    I use a slit 5' length of 2" ABS pipe on my rear blade, runs smooth over gravel and asphalt.

    Now's a good time to grease everything, before seasonal moisture/salt find their way
    onto your driveshafts. Also a good time to check/change the small fuel filter under
    your floorboard (though it's likely fine w/just 15 hours on your tractor).
    Levi, TJR345 and PJR832 like this.
    '13 1025r (375hrs), psrumors' seat springs, h120 fel & 52" ratchet rake, 54d mmm (autoconnect & mechanical lift), imatch, wood-decked countyline carry-all
    ballast box, artillian fronthoe & 42x3" forks w/backrest, jd 47" front snowblower w/chute actuator, everythingattachments 48" box blade & 60" scrape blade

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spackle View Post

    I use a slit 5' length of 2" ABS pipe on my rear blade, runs smooth over gravel and asphalt.
    A picture of this would be nice as well as how you hold it on.
    Without data, you are just another man with an opinion.
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    TickTock's Avatar
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    Always use fuel additive (all year round). I use PowerService, because I can get it locally, but others such as OptiLube are good as well.

    I don't have an engine heater, but in sub zero, I wouldn't hesitate to run it for 30 - 60 minutes. If you can find a timer that will take the wattage, you could use that to program it to turn on an hour before you need it.

    As for chains, I don't have a need for them. The 4WD and diff lock are more than enough, so you'll need to test that one based on your needs. Everyone's driveway and driving skills are different. I also grooved my tires which helped tremendously for my work.

    I played with covering the radiator with a piece of cardboard, but it was more hassle than it was worth. I had a hole the size of a soup can cut in the cardboard and it did little to increase the temp. After messing with that, I pondered why I did that in the first place. It runs fine and I'm not plowing a mile road, so I just forego messing with it any more.

    Quote Originally Posted by BBarn View Post
    A picture of this would be nice as well as how you hold it on.
    I agree. This could be useful on my front blade as well.
    Last edited by TickTock; 11-07-2016 at 08:56 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony20899 View Post
    For all you cold weather 105R owners - This will be my first winter using the new 1025r tractor to move driveway snow. Have never owned a diesel engine before and was wondering what I need to prep for when running it in the winter.
    It will be stored in a non-heated garage/shed. Temperatures can get very cold -20F from time to time, but usually run +20F - -5F (5F - -25F wind chill) from December to February. Will only be used to remove larger snow falls using a blade, no blower.

    Do I need to put a fuel additive in the tank? If so what brand.
    It came with an engine heater, assume I plug this in and wait for some time (15 minutes?) then start it
    Cover the radiator to control cold air flow?
    Battery Tender - keep it plugged in.
    Tire Chains, rear only?
    Has break-in oil (15 hours on engine), so no plans to change it now

    What am I missing?
    Stop by Menards and pick up some Howes Diesel Conditioner and Anti-Gel (64 oz.). It's on sale this week for $8.99. I run it all year long and just mix some in the gas can at every fill. One bottle will last a long time.

    I typically run my engine heater for 10-15 minutes prior to startup and I cycle the glow plugs a few times. (Turn the ignition on and watch the glow plug symbol on the display. Once it turns off, turn off the key and do it again. On the third time, start the engine.)

    I haven't covered my radiator at all and I haven't had any issues.

    I bought some tire chains but I actually haven't installed them. Only a couple of times I've had to use the 4wd with my blower. I haven't used a plow on my tractor so someone else can chime in. I believe people with front blades use chains on the front tires too, but I could be mistaken. For ballast I'm using 5 70 pound bags of sand (from Mendards - "Sand in a Tube" for $2-$4) in the ballast box and it has been working great.
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    I use stanadyne. Im not a fan of power service as you do not want to over dose it. No issues even at -20 with a jd 430.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    I'm in a similar situation and I would emphasize ballast weight over tire chains in your situation. chains are awesome but if your backend is light they're gonna spin and tear up whatever surface they're on.
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    TickTock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traction View Post
    I bought some tire chains but I actually haven't installed them. Only a couple of times I've had to use the 4wd with my blower. I haven't used a plow on my tractor so someone else can chime in. I believe people with front blades use chains on the front tires too, but I could be mistaken. For ballast I'm using 5 70 pound bags of sand (from Mendards - "Sand in a Tube" for $2-$4) in the ballast box and it has been working great.
    I have the 54" blade and use no chains. But, as I stated earlier, my environment is likely different than others. I'd suggest trying without the chains, and only purchase if needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    I use stanadyne. Im not a fan of power service as you do not want to over dose it. No issues even at -20 with a jd 430.
    How is PS any different than others with regards to overusing?

    Per directions, I'm supposed to put in 3.2 ounces in a 5 gallon can. I can assure you I'm not accurate to that level and it's likely closer to 3.5.

    I don't think you're going to overuse the product unless you're putting in 150% of what's directed. At that point, I question whether one could drive the tractor safely.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony20899 View Post
    what am i missing?
    Tektite heated cab

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by TickTock View Post
    I have the 54" blade and use no chains. But, as I stated earlier, my environment is likely different than others. I'd suggest trying without the chains, and only purchase if needed.



    How is PS any different than others with regards to overusing?

    Per directions, I'm supposed to put in 3.2 ounces in a 5 gallon can. I can assure you I'm not accurate to that level and it's likely closer to 3.5.

    I don't think you're going to overuse the product unless you're putting in 150% of what's directed. At that point, I question whether one could drive the tractor safely.
    I've always heard it compared to adding K1 to your diesel fuel and if mixed above the recommended dose it can burn up injectors. this is the PS in a white bottle, the diesel kleen is a summer additive and the red bottle is more like alcohol. High pressure common rail systems are more susceptible to this which I don't believe includes any yanmar's

    the stanodyne use is much lower too, it recommends 4oz per 30 gallons of fuel and does no harm if run over the recommended dose. I put 1 glug in a 6 gallon can of diesel for exact useage. lol I use maybe 2-16oz bottles a year between my truck and tractor
    Levi, Drifterbike and PJR832 like this.

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