1025r 54" snow blade- Slow lowering
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Thread: 1025r 54" snow blade- Slow lowering

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    1025r 54" snow blade- Slow lowering

    Was wondering if anyone else with a 1025R and a 54" blade has had any issues. When using my 54" snow blade it lowers really slow even when warmed up and the hydraulic flow regulator dial is turned all the way up. I had an identical plow on my old 445 and it dropped right down.

    I asked a guy at the dealer about this the other day and he said there is an orifice on the cylinder that keeps it from dropping too quickly so that the blade does not slam down and mark up peoples driveways. He said I could take the orifice out or drill it out bigger. So, I disconnected the inlet/ outlet hoses on the up/ down cylinder and cant seem to find an orifice.

    Anyone have any knowledge on this an how I can drop the blade down quicker. The slow drop lowers productivity.

    Thanks,
    Last edited by vondy7; 12-14-2016 at 05:37 AM.
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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    There is no orifice on mine. I would check to make sure your quick connects are connected properly back at the right hand foot rest.
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    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    I'll check on it when I get to work if and get my techs on their jobs. I have a 1025R with a H120 loader and it is slow on the "dump" function if you don't push the lever the whole way to the right, if you happen to be using that circuit for your raise/lower. If you are using the correct circuit (where the lever is moved front to back), is it possible you are pushing the lever into the float position when lowering the blade?

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    vondy7, If you drop the blade all the way down before going into float it will work faster for ya, but still probably slow.


    From one of my posts a while back...

    "I made our plow blade originally to utilize the JD lift piston available at the time for the JD 650. The JD piston allowed for lift and down pressure. After one winter of use I decided it was NOT in any way the way to go. Changed it up for the following year to a chain lift.

    The reaction time of the piston in float mode was flat out too slow for snow plowing especially in really cold temperatures. The addition of the weights helped but did not solve the issue. Not to mention always having to go into float mode, AFTER you have lowered the blade via down pressure. Then there is the having the blade all the way down only to discover you were not in float mode or it popped out of float mode after you have plowed up 4 feet of grass. Down pressure with a push type frame such as mine or the quick hitch will also kill your 4WD (front) traction. Chain lift allows for float mode regardless of blade height."
    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...tml#post576297
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    There is no orifice on mine. I would check to make sure your quick connects are connected properly back at the right hand foot rest.
    Orifice used on a H120 FEL, #6...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cart
    key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    1 R44302 Tie Band AR (D)
    2 W39914 Hose Guard 1
    3 R26448 O-Ring 1 11.887 X 1.981 mm (0.468" X 5/64")
    4 AW35268 Hydraulic Hose 4 LGTH= 1350MM
    5 W53373 Cap 1 (A)
    W53374 Cap 1 (B)
    W53375 Cap 1 (C)
    W53376 Cap 1 (D)
    6 E40500 Orifice 1
    7 N155442 Adapter Fitting 1
    Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    8 AW32184 Hydr. Quick Coupler Plug 4
    9 AW32569 Hydraulic Hose 2 LGTH= 635MM
    10 AW29374 Hydraulic Hose 6 LGTH= 350MM
    AW35884 Hydraulic Hose 6 (E) LGTH = 350MM
    11 W44542 Block Clamp 3
    12 W52152 Screw 3
    13 T77613 O-Ring 12
    14 AW35336 Oil Line 1
    15 AW35337 Oil Line 1
    16 AW35338 Oil Line 1
    Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    17 AW35339 Oil Line 1
    18 R76477 Tie Band 2
    19 W54416 Hose Support 1
    20 19M7298 Cap Screw 1 M8 X 35
    21 24M7024 Washer 2 9 X 28 X 3 mm
    22 14M7396 Lock Nut 1 M8
    23 R155996 Tie Band 2 (C)
    24 R155997 Tie Band 2 (A)
    25 R155998 Tie Band 2 (B)
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    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    vondy7 (12-14-2016)

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    Gizmo 2- Thanks for sharing your experiences and suggestions. I agree the 54" blades function is disappointing and good idea on the chain lift. As far as the orifice on the FEL, I guess that controls the Lift arms drop speed. Good to know.

    Ray_PA- all connection are correctly attached.

    Billy Cravens- Let me know what your techs say. What a good reference to have.

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    TickTock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vondy7 View Post
    Was wondering if anyone else with a 1025R and a 54" blade has had any issues. When using my 54" snow blade it lowers really slow even when warmed up and the hydraulic flow regulator dial is turned all the way up. I had an identical plow on my old 445 and it dropped right down.

    I asked a guy at the dealer about this the other day and he said there is an orifice on the cylinder that keeps it from dropping too quickly so that the blade does not slam down and mark up peoples driveways. He said I could take the orifice out or drill it out bigger. So, I disconnected the inlet/ outlet hoses on the up/ down cylinder and cant seem to find an orifice.

    Anyone have any knowledge on this an how I can drop the blade down quicker. The slow drop lowers productivity.

    Thanks,
    Where is this dial? For what it's worth, mine is slow and will kick out float when the fluid is too thick. Also, even though my engine is warm, I find the hydraulic fluid is still slow to move.
    Gizmo2 likes this.

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    Tick Tock- the dial is under the front of the seat by the floor board. Should have a +/- on it.

    Also, your hydraulics are tied to the transmission system and will only warm up if you are moving the machine around a lot or using the hydraulics aggressively.

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    ErikR's Avatar
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    I've had my 47" blower for a few years and will say that it drops a lot faster than the 54" blade I just purchased. I'm guessing it's just a weight thing.
    RandyM and Gizmo2 like this.
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

    1950 Allis-Chalmers B, Electric start, PTO, Belt Pulley, Hydraulic pump. Stuck engine (a work in progress)

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    RandyM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikR View Post
    I've had my 47" blower for a few years and will say that it drops a lot faster than the 54" blade I just purchased. I'm guessing it's just a weight thing.
    Weight will have a little something to do with it, but I am confused, it is a double acting cylinder and you should be able to power down just as fast as you can power it up.
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