1026R to 1025R EPA Detune?
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Thread: 1026R to 1025R EPA Detune?

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    1026R to 1025R EPA Detune?

    A quick question, is bumping the power back up an easy plug and play,
    or a computer change?
    LX255 44" Freedom mulcher ,41" snowthrower
    GT325 48" tri cycler mower, 44" Bercomac 2 stage
    42" lawn sweeper, 42" lawn roller.
    JD 1025R 53" H120, 647 roto tiller, 60" snowblower.

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    636mullet's Avatar
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    I believe the engine displacement and cam are different. Also this is mechanical injection so no computer.

    -636
    etcallhome and budman like this.
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    Forget about that 1hp...I've heard the cold starts were a whole lot better on the 1026....but I've wondered this myself.
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    636mullet's Avatar
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    If I remember right anything much below 50 and they both make lots of smoke and noise. My 1026R lives in a heated garage that never gets below 50. I've also got the JD block heater just in case. That seams to heat things up real quick.

    If you look at what the 1st gen 1023E makes and the current 1025R it's almost a wash. Sort of like the 1026R and the 1025R.

    -636
    budman likes this.
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
    my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
    on size and horsepower.

    I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
    Thanks guys.
    LX255 44" Freedom mulcher ,41" snowthrower
    GT325 48" tri cycler mower, 44" Bercomac 2 stage
    42" lawn sweeper, 42" lawn roller.
    JD 1025R 53" H120, 647 roto tiller, 60" snowblower.

    My youtube channel

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    Quote Originally Posted by budman View Post
    Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
    my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
    on size and horsepower.

    I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
    Thanks guys.
    Something I've been curious about too. Not that I need... I would just want. Pure curiosity past that point. I don't have enough diesel experience to even know how these things work but like the idea of "Unlocking" something that was detuned due to EPA restrictions.
    2015 John Deere 1025R
    H120 Front End Loader
    54D Mid Mount Mower
    Frontier 48" Box Blade
    Woods 60" Grading Scraper
    Homemade Heavy Hitch
    Polar HD 1500 TA Cart

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    Quote Originally Posted by budman View Post
    Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
    my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
    on size and horsepower.

    I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
    Thanks guys.
    The reason for the 25 HP rating is, the tier 4 requirement only effects engines over 25 HP. So, lowering them to 25 HP allowed them to keep them tier III.
    budman likes this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Quote Originally Posted by 636mullet View Post
    If I remember right anything much below 50 and they both make lots of smoke and noise. My 1026R lives in a heated garage that never gets below 50. I've also got the JD block heater just in case. That seams to heat things up real quick.

    If you look at what the 1st gen 1023E makes and the current 1025R it's almost a wash. Sort of like the 1026R and the 1025R.

    -636
    As 636 said it's really a near wash anyway, they just rounded some #'s different and changed the name to slide in under the new restrictions. Even if there really was a FULL 1HP difference between then it would make next to no difference in ability or feel during operation as the new modes is likely to be a few %more efficient with its "25" HP vs the old one and its "26" so your likely better off with the newer model regardless.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    One of you rivet counters will correct me I'm sure. ( Not a bad thing!) The diff between the 26 and 25 was nothing more than bore and stroke. Less stroke but 1mm more bore. Dropped it to 25hp to sneek in under the final 4 requirements. What will they actually dyno to at the PTO? Shhh...

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Also as a side note.. 1hp aint crap. All the 1 series are mechanical injected, no computer. Can you hop it up? Sure. Is it worth it? Not in my opinion. Why sacrifice bullet proof longevity for a couple HP. I've seen these same basic engines in gen sets and light towers go 20k before major failure. The hyd pumps and hydro motors only flow so much. The systems are perfectly matched to the power plants and attachments. The engine is there for one reason.. To produce power to pumps and motors.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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