Green Tractor Talk banner

Chainsaw recommendation

18K views 124 replies 52 participants last post by  Drifterbike 
#1 ·
I didn't think that I would use a chainsaw that often so I bought the DeWalt 40v chainsaw for easy maintenance. I decided to clear my back lot cutting down 40 small to medium size cedar trees. The DeWalt chainsaw is good for cutting all the branches off the trees but It is under power trying to cut 6 to 8 inches wet tree trunks flush to the ground.
So now I'm looking for a gas chainsaw with no smaller than a 18 inch bar to finish the job. I want to spend under $400. I have 1 big job right now but after that I won't be using the saw that often. I was looking at Stihl and went to TSC. TSC sells Poulan and Jonsered. Any recommendations?
 
#2 · (Edited)
I'd steer clear of Poulan. I have a Poulan Pro right now that never has run right. It starts fine, but even with a 42cc engine it lacks power. Have to ease the throttle up to wide open over a span of 30 seconds or engine dies. I gave up using it and use my Dewalt reciprocating saw with a 9" or 12" pruning blade now. If batteries aren't charging fast enough, I'll use my corded Tiger Paw recip saw if electric is close. If I ever need to buy a gas powered one again, will most likely be a Stihl.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
This. I have one I inherited from my dad. Thing won't run right to save it's life.

Stihl is the only way to go. My work is a dealer for Stihl products as well as JD tractors!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Stihl is all I buy......just my 2 cents.:usa
These two. If you can find an old 26, MS260, you'll be set. The newer saws are the 261. They are bullet proof.
 
#6 ·
I worked at a tree service for years, and we used all Stihls and Huskys, they were both very tough, I just found the Huskys a bit easier to work on. The Stihls had a bit more "progressive" design on some things like tool-less chain adjusters (if I recall correctly) and the Stihl climbing saws had a very complicated throttle-linkage system in the handle that was like a puzzle. :flag_of_truce:

I carried an older Husky 272 in the log loading truck, the other crews used 355s and 372 ground saws, we had a 3120 BIGGUN Husky for big trees, and then Husky climbing saws. The only Stihls we used were climbing saws. I don't think you'd go wrong with either brand, if you don't mind spending $300-400 on a saw.

I have a couple of 40+ year old McCulloughs that till run good for my home use. :lol:
 
#9 ·
I have had an MS310 Stihl for 11-12 years. First few tears cut firewood with it every year and then after moving it just gets dusted off when I need to clean up a downed tree or someone needs to borrow it.

It can sit on the shelf for a year, pump it three or 4 times and she starts right up.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Stihl makes different grades of saws.
The homeowner, farm and ranch, and professional level.

If you go onto their website you can see the model numbers of the different grades.
 
#13 ·
I have a Husqvarna 340 which is a homeowners grade saw and I also have a Stihl MS291, just bought this one last year, which is in the Stihl Farm and Ranch line which is their middle grade saws.

There is really no caparison between my Husqvarna and the Stihl. The Stihl will eat the Husqvarna alive. Now, that said, it should because it is a higher grade of saw.

All chainsaw mfg. build saws for different users. For the average homeowner that uses their saw occasionally, the homeowner grade saws will do the job. The higher grade saws will have more power, larger size chains, metal pump gears and better bar oiling systems and usually better bars.

Considering saws that are under $400.00, you are probably going to be in the home owner grade of saw. I paid slightly more than $400.00 for my Stihl MS291.

So, how has the Husqvarna been. Since I have owned and used that one the most, it is a fairly good saw. The biggest problem with the homeowner grade Husqvarna is the bar oil pump drive gears are plastic. I replaced these gears once and had to clean the oil porting at least three times. In my opinion and my experience with the Husqvarna, it is a good saw for the average home owner user but I have had the problem with oil pump drive gears.

I agree with others, stay away from the Husqvarna's that are sold at the big box stores. They get there products special made and are usually a lessor quality.

In my opinion, buy the Stihl. I would say the Stihl home owner grade saws are at least as good as the Husqvarna and most likely are better.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Stihl dealer



The Rural King store in Radford, Va. is a Stihl dealer according to my son. I think the Stihl requirement is that the dealers also provide full service and few of the big box stores do that.

If the local Ace Hardware store provides service, that may be a good option. Most of those stores are owned by individuals in the community. I'd try to talk with the people working the Stihl area and get a feel for how they are on service. Some will provide service but really aren't in that business while others look at it as a major way to attract and hold customers. If your local store feels service is important, I'd look at buying from them.

For what it's worth, I've run both Stihl's and Huskys over the past 25-30 years. Husky's first because we had dealers in the area. They closed up so we switched to Stihl although two of the Husky's are still cutting. Both are good, although I'm more likely to pick up the Husky because it's a mid size saw and the Stih's are smaller and larger. The mid size just works on everything up to about a 30" diameter log but if it's bigger than that, the Stihl has to come out and play.

Treefarmer
 
#17 ·
I'll add another option: Dolmar. Mine has a 16" bar, and isn't too heavy. I have used it to cut pretty much every kind of wood that I can find. It won't be the cheapest option, but it is a good quality saw. If I didn't have that, I would buy a Stihl.
 
#19 ·
I own and like my Stihls and Dolmar, and would also recommend Huskys. But from what the OP stated he likes his battery saw and only needs​ a larger saw for just a couple of larger trees. I'm probably biting my tongue, but if you don't think you'll need that larger saw, I'd consider renting one from Home Depot or some other rental place. They put a new chain on for each rental, and if you're trying to flush cut to the ground, you're bound to dull the chain when you're cutting that close.

I like owning my tools, but if using it only one time, I look into renting.

Just my 2 cents.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I have a Jonsereds and a Husqvarna. The Jon is 40 years old and has survived me and 3 boys cutting firewood for 100% heat for 10 years and 30% for the last 30. It also survived one 30in Oak that fell on it. The Husky is taking over as it's time for Jon to retire. Firewood chores are trimming and cutting deadfalls and windfalls now so Husky pretty much has a life of ease. I've been thinking about a battery saw to carry in the tractors box along with a sawsall to cut the limbs that hang down to far.
Ron
 
#21 ·
There's a lot of brand loyalty and bashing in this thread, but not one single mention of tuning. :unknown:

Stihl makes some good stuff and some Poulan quality stuff. Poulan's can be tuned to run awesome and have power, they just won't last as long as a pro saw. Same company that owns Husqvarna owns Poulan, and Jonsered is Husqvarna with different handle bars. Poulan's a "box store" brand for them.

Don't run 50:1 mix (it's too thin!), and do not ever run ethanol fuel. To run 40:1, you'll need to remove the limiter caps from the carb needles and retune it. Most new saws are set up too lean to meet the EPA crap and the needle limiters prevent fixing it. EPA and happy hearty chainsaws are mutually exclusive - you need to fix that before you say a saw is crap or not.

Husqvarna has a really sweet autotune system, and I'd suggest getting a saw that has it. Tuning is the biggest issue chainsaws have when it comes to power and ultimately reliability. A saw that's tuned for summer will be too lean and burn up in winter use, and conversely a saw tuned for winter will be too rich and doggy when used in summer.

Echo, Efco, Dolmar (Makita owns them now), Stihl, Husky - they all make really good saws. Some of them make some homeowner occasional use saws too (Stihl is not exempt from this practice, they have their name on some junkers worse than Poulans).
 
#31 ·
I have a Poulan pro that I've had for years that has to be tuned up every year and I was thinking it was the saws fault. After reading this now I know it was my neglect and wrong fuel that was the problem.
 
#22 ·
Echo makes a good saw as well I'll agree. But the only experience I have with them are ones that are older then me.



This poulan I can't get to run right and stay running.



This little poulan wood shark is one of my favorites. Lite weight, sort of a top handle and is my go to Limbing saw. It's about 25 years old now.



For my all around favorites though these to are it. An 026 and 038 MAG II

 
#23 ·
Did you take the limiters off the Poulan?

I've got a Echo 35cc I forget the model number of. I removed the catalyst from the muffler and the limiters off the needles and it's a screamer that'll run 17,000rpm! It's max power is down around 9,000 and it's factory max is 11K so that's what I tune it to. Yes, I have a tach. ;)

I also have an Echo forestry trimmer (the sawblade weed whackers) that's 42cc and it's a beast that doesn't even have an idle needle. Grrrr! I really like using that thing though. I got a Stihl one from my brother-in-law and will be making that a traditional weed whip because I like the Echo as it is.

The rest of my "in use" fleet are as follows: Jonsered 2166 (modified to be a 2172), 2188, and Husky 357xp. I have a bunch more that are collectors or projects underway, but the Echo, Jonny's, and the Husky are used when I go to work.
 
#25 · (Edited)
most people overlook the chain/bar ur cheap saws and battery saws will have safety chains (mostly low profile)which are not aggresive . most run their chains way to dull and the cheap bars are junk. bar condition is very important in the performance of ur saw. chain choice can be safety chains up to full chisel chains cross cut to ripping chains (and skip tooth which is used best on very long bars and big wood) and angle of the cutting teeth. if ur bar is bad it will ruin ur chain and your sawing experiance

for a good gas saw for the money i would get the husqvarna 240 its a home owner saw but if you go to a service dealer u can get factory reconditioned ones for less then 200$ otd. some have no use since the are normally bought at box stores and returned for some reason and they get sent back to husqvarna serviced reconditioned and sold at husqvarna dealers with a warranty. its a 40cc saw 2.4hp you can get a 18" bar and up to a full chisel low pro chain if you want. stick with the safety chain if ur not skilled.

but if ur only cutting 8" or less and want them flush with the ground try a sawzall many uses and blades are cheap and can easily cut into the dirt. and no gas /oil to buy..

if you buy gas make sure you use 2 stroke oil meant for air cooled engines.. not the tc-w as its meant for water cooled engines and wont properly protect ur aircooled saw and thats one reason saws burn up. use bar oil not engine oil or anything less its meant to properly lube the guide groove in ur bar. if your groove (normally .050") gets to large ur chain will cut crooked and want to not cut properly and well tend to ride out of the grove.

also the idea of renting a saw is a good idea for what ur wanting to do. equipment rental places will have them as well.

if your not very skilled technique is huge. it takes years to become a pro feller so read/watch as many video's you can if you want some skills and not get injured.

good luck and safe sawing:greentractorride:
 
#26 ·
I bleed orange like I bleed green Stihl. For most jobs, I have an MS250C-BE it is now replaced with an MS251C-BE. It is easy to start and adjust the bar, you kinda have to relearn on how to start it but once you use the easy start you will never go back. Oh, by the way, the two play very nice together.

Doug
 

Attachments

#27 ·
I don't work in turf area. I'm a lead utility tech. The turf techs work on all that stuff. We send them to stihl school in Dallas. I asked if I could go even tho I don't work on them and they said sure. I'm always down to learn about new things. We don't get many stihl products in for work cause they are bulletproof. But our techs are trained good. And we have all of our tech certificates for customers to see. So make sure you know where a service center is at just in case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#28 · (Edited)
i have a husqvarna 240 with a woodland pro 18" bar and a sthil low pro full chisel chain (ps) does very well but the full chisel will dull easy so its only for clean wood. my other saw for lighter work is a efco with same 18" woodland bar but a semi chisel (pm) sthil chain.
keep ur saws clean
some common myths i hear alot
sthil is usa its a german company but alot more service centers here.
husqvarna is australian its swedish
echo is japan
efco/ole mac/oylmpyk is italy
dolmar many say whats a dolmar.. was west german now makita
these are the home countries not always where they are made
all can be great saws if used correctly

the only proper way to tune a saw is in the wood:flag_of_truce:
 
#29 ·
Stihl USA

i have a husqvarna 240 with a woodland pro 18" bar and a sthil low pro full chisel chain (ps) does very well but the full chisel will dull easy so its only for clean wood. my other saw for lighter work is a efco with same 18" woodland bar but a semi chisel (pm) sthil chain.
keep ur saws clean
some common myths i hear alot
sthil is usa its a german company but alot more service centers here.
husqvarna is australian its swedish
echo is japan
efco/ole mac/oylmpyk is italy
dolmar many say whats a dolmar.. was west german now makita
these are the home countries not always where they are made
all can be great saws if used correctly

the only proper way to tune a saw is in the wood:flag_of_truce:
Stihl is a German company but many of their products are manufactured in a factory in Virginia Beach, Virginia. I went through the plant several years ago and it was a very cool tour of a (then) state of the art manufacturing plant. I'm sure they've updated even more now. They may have other plants in the US as well but I know about that one.

Treefarmer
 
#35 · (Edited)
Not with these. But I've used hydraulic powered table saws, planers, shapers and joiners in my friends cabinet shop. (He's Amish) it makes it very hard to go back to electric. That table saw will eat a 4 inch thick piece of oak as fast as I could push it.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top