Stihl farm boss bar
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
Like Tree23Likes

Thread: Stihl farm boss bar

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Last Online
    08-03-2019 @ 10:46 PM
    Location
    SC / SW Va
    Posts
    72
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Stihl farm boss bar

    I apparently need to replaced the bar on my Stihl 290. It is cutting at a angle and I just learned that this is caused by a worn bar.

    Which bar and where is the best to buy. Do I need to stay with Stihl?

    Thanks

    Charlie
    John Deere 5310

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Drifterbike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Last Online
    12-03-2019 @ 10:59 AM
    Location
    Hampton Ill
    Posts
    2,725
    Thanks
    1,088
    Thanked 319 Times in 280 Posts
    you either bent it or you cut a lot of wood. I would stick with the Sthil bar.
    Doug and jdmich like this.
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

  4. Top | #3
    Tomfive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 11:16 PM
    Location
    Mid-Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    4,227
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 613 Times in 478 Posts
    In my experience and reading, a crooked cutting chainsaw can be caused by a few things.

    First thing is to check is the chain, was it sharpened recently? Uneven grinding of the teeth can cause the cut to curve. Try another chain or a chain sharpened by someone who knows how to sharpen it correctly. You could also try a new chain.

    You can check if your bar is bent, check it on a flat surface. Then see if the rails are worn to one side, look at the rails where the chain rides and see if they are even. If one rail is worn more than the other side, sometimes that can be fixed with a little filing. The chain is supposed to be riding the rails, and height needs to be even.

    Also check the depth of the groove in the bar, and make sure the chain drive teeth are not riding on the bottom. If the groove is not deep enough, chances are your bar is too worn to salvage.

    You don't have to buy a Stihl bar, Oregon makes nice replacements, just make sure the bar, chain and chainsaw sprocket are matched and correct for your saw.

    Just my 2 cents.
    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
    Block heater -- 180* T-stat -- Evans HP Waterless Coolant

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    coaltrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:54 PM
    Location
    NW Penna
    Posts
    20,720
    Thanks
    1,137
    Thanked 3,193 Times in 2,343 Posts
    Chainsaw bars wear over time and use. They are a replaceable item just like the chain.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	05A56D3F-1BF1-4858-A012-E178342E478C.jpeg 
Views:	100 
Size:	19.3 KB 
ID:	573833

    Myself - I would replace it with a Stihl bar - no reason not to.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

  7. Top | #5
    nikdfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Last Online
    12-05-2019 @ 06:08 PM
    Location
    Person county NC
    Posts
    356
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 67 Times in 43 Posts
    Like said earlier, you can use Oregon if you like. There are bar + chain combos on Amazon available for 16", 18" and 20" lengths. I have used 18" & 20" replacements on our MS290 & they worked well. For me it was a convenient way to purchase.

    Nick
    Tomfive likes this.
    2010 JD 3038e w/305 FEL 2013 JD 1025R FILB 2017 JD x394
    RC2060 rotary cutter, BB2060 Box Blade, Strap-On Pallet Forks, Jinma 6" Chipper, Tarter 5' Tiller, TSC Middle-buster, Agri-Supply Keulavator,
    Caroni TC590 5' Finish Mower, TSC 6' Landscape Blade, TSC 6' Landscape Rake, TSC Post Hole Digger, Modified TSC Carry-All w/deck & casters

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Last Online
    11-23-2019 @ 10:24 PM
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    87
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
    sometimes bars can be reground. take it to your favorite saw shop
    Tomfive and HydroHarold like this.

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:05 PM
    Location
    Burton, Ohio
    Posts
    2,796
    Thanks
    562
    Thanked 452 Times in 354 Posts
    You need to know the length, drive pitch and width of the chains you want to run.
    I'm betting you have 3/8 pitch and .050 width, but your saw may have come with .325 pitch @.063 width.
    If your bar is significantly worn then have a close look at your drive sprocket too.
    For a few extra bucks if you wish, you could select a light weight bar. I have my saws equipped with Sugi Hara's. Stihl also makes a real good light bar as well. These are real nice to use because they take weight off the nose of the saw making it handle as though you had a shorter bar.
    Tomfive, HydroHarold and coaltrain like this.
    1025R FILB, vintage: 2015
    54D MM mowing deck
    Imatch hitch
    2 inch receiver for three point
    "18" cart
    Piranha Tooth Bar
    Ken's hooks and differential lock pedal
    Artillian 36" forks
    Stihl equipment: Saws; MS261C, MS462C, MS661RCM and Blower; BR600 and Trimmer; FS70R and Hedge Cutter; HL 56K and Pressure Washer; RB400
    Husky log splitter

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 07:57 PM
    Location
    Near Roa. VA
    Posts
    3,683
    Thanks
    43
    Thanked 456 Times in 348 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by crsides View Post
    I apparently need to replaced the bar on my Stihl 290. It is cutting at a angle and I just learned that this is caused by a worn bar.

    Which bar and where is the best to buy. Do I need to stay with Stihl?

    Thanks

    Charlie
    How many chains have you purchased for this saw??

    The bar is not worn until you have used up quite a few chains.
    A saw cutting to one side, rather than straight, is first caused by a chain that is more dull on one side,,,
    HydroHarold likes this.
    Some of the tractors include JD 4105, JD 855, JD 650,,,, and,,, the IH 584 4WD
    My favorite attachment is the homemade landplane,,, EVERYONE needs one of those!!

  11. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Last Online
    12-06-2019 @ 06:04 PM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    1,970
    Thanks
    96
    Thanked 225 Times in 180 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    In my experience and reading, a crooked cutting chainsaw can be caused by a few things.

    First thing is to check is the chain, was it sharpened recently? Uneven grinding of the teeth can cause the cut to curve. Try another chain or a chain sharpened by someone who knows how to sharpen it correctly. You could also try a new chain.

    You can check if your bar is bent, check it on a flat surface. Then see if the rails are worn to one side, look at the rails where the chain rides and see if they are even. If one rail is worn more than the other side, sometimes that can be fixed with a little filing. The chain is supposed to be riding the rails, and height needs to be even.

    Also check the depth of the groove in the bar, and make sure the chain drive teeth are not riding on the bottom. If the groove is not deep enough, chances are your bar is too worn to salvage.

    You don't have to buy a Stihl bar, Oregon makes nice replacements, just make sure the bar, chain and chainsaw sprocket are matched and correct for your saw.

    Just my 2 cents.
    Tomfive is correct, a worn bar is NOT the only thing that can be the cause of cutting crooked, it could be (and in my opinion is more likely to be) a poorly/improperly/badly sharpened chain as well.

    If you can’t check them for wear or proper sharpening have them checked at a shop and invest in a new chain or chain and bar-I’d stick with Stihl, they make some of the best chain out there and it’s easy to keep things matched with Stihl bars.
    Tomfive likes this.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

  12. Top | #10
    HydroHarold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Last Online
    06-29-2019 @ 12:07 AM
    Location
    Mid Hudson Valley NY
    Posts
    3,554
    Thanks
    321
    Thanked 332 Times in 253 Posts
    Excellent saw info here: https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/...g-zmaz85sozgoe

    Back in my "Mother Earth" (early '70's) days I bought a book called "Barnacle Parp's Chainsaw Guide" by Walter Hall. It went out of print long ago but you can get a new and updated reissue from Mother Earth's website. This book is the sawyers BIBLE! If it ain't in there you don't need to know about it!

    One saw shop/chain sharpener caveat, make sure the guy you entrust with your chains/bars/saw knows HOW TO SHARPEN CORRECTLY! I know one local shop that sells saws but will absolutely ruin chains. Best to buy new chains from them and learn to sharpen or touch up your own, it's not hard at all following the mfg'ers specs and using a filing guide. Stihl on Stihl, $$$$ maybe, but they are the right stuff for their own saws.
    Tomfive and Jeff B like this.
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

    '04 GX335, 48C, Johnny Bucket Jr., PowerFlow W/7bu. bagger, 42 snow blower, 48 Plow, JD front dethatcher, 10 Cart, Little-Brown Henway, Stihl 026P/20", Stihl 241/16", Stihl BG 85 blower, Stihl KombiMotor 110 w/string trimmer/brush cutter/edger/pole saw/hedge trimmer, Snapper 21" WB, Snapper 8/24 snow blower

    "...and visions of green CUT sugarplums dance in his head..."

    NRA Life Member

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •