Low hour annual oil changes
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Low hour annual oil changes

    I'm really struggling with the annual oil change on my 2720 this time. I use JD 0W-40 Plus-50 II synthetic oil and I have only put 25 hrs on the tractor since the last oil change one year ago. When cold the oil on the dipstick is so clear that it's hard to see and if I run the tractor for a bit and then immediately pull the dipstick it is still totally clear with no foaming or other discoloration. I know the manual says annually but it sure seems like a waste of a gallon of synthetic oil.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    I would wait. I have done the same in the past.
    DRobinson, Tomfive, Marlin and 1 others like this.
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    tomd999's Avatar
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    Hiya,

    I understand seeing clear oil on the dipstick makes you hesitant to change it out, however, that "clean" oil may be doing real harm, all depends how the tractor accumulates those few hours.

    There are 2 basic scenarios, one good, one bad for the oil

    The first, the tractor is seldom used, however, when it is, it's really used, full operating temps for at least 2 hours straight, rated RPM, heavy loads, utilizing the tractor fully. If this is the case, the oil is most likely fine, I would leave it in for longer.

    The second, the tractor is used fairly regularly but for very short periods under light loads where the drive line does not come up to full operating temps then shut off. This is classified as severe service as the combustion byproducts and moisture collect in the oil and deplete additives. When an engine is operated at full temps, the byproducts and moisture boil off and the oil life is extended.

    So, how do you use your tractor?
    2010 3320 Cab
    Loaded R3's, 300CX w/3rd SCV
    61" HD-Tooth Bar, 72" HD-bolt-on edge, Frontier Forx
    "A" front hitch, Mid-PTO, Air ride seat, Horn, Back-up alarm, Rear work lights, External mirrors, Auto cruise
    60HD broom. 366 Blade, 59 blower, i-Match
    Looking for: Rear Wheel Weight Set

    Stuff for Sale:
    New 200CX/H130 Masts 25/2720-2032R
    New Jamison Bryce adapter, cart and chute

    “Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself” Mark Twain

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    I would get an oil sample kit and have it scanned to check it. That way you know. And it will establish a baseline.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    I would get an oil sample kit and have it scanned to check it. That way you know. And it will establish a baseline.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    I 2nd the oil sample kit. let us know what it the kit cost's wise is-ok. kinda interested in it my self.
    Marlin and PJR832 like this.
    jim

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    2018 835R gas model gator-"aka" the Cadillac i say!! 6ft jd snow plow-which already has a dtac out on it. i got just about everything on it i could at the time

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    spferdil's Avatar
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    I would not change it, I seriously doubt that you could have contaminated it enough to require a change in 25 hours. But of course if it bothers you might be worth doing it for the peace of mind.

    All of my stuff sits a lot any more, including vehicles, but I go strictly by hours or miles for servicing, unless something really out of the ordinary happens to one. Otherwise I would be changing oil in something all the time.

    Just my $.02, YMMV.
    BigJim55, Marlin and 69project like this.
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    tomd999's Avatar
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    Hiya,

    I'm all for oil analysis however, in this case there simply isn't enough oil in the sump to make it a cost effective measure.

    In my big Diesel's that have 4 and 5 gallon sumps, $30 bucks to sample the oil rather than changing it out on a time schedule makes sense as the oil is $50 a gallon plus 2 or 3 very large filters, I'll spend $30 in hopes to save a $300 oil change any day.

    The 2720 here takes about 3.5 quarts of oil with a filter change, so the cost is almost the same, $30 vs $40 for the oil change, if the test comes back good, you save $10 bucks, if not, the oil change costs you $70.

    My luck would be that the test comes back bad and each change would be $70. ;-)
    Tomfive, BigJim55, Marlin and 2 others like this.
    2010 3320 Cab
    Loaded R3's, 300CX w/3rd SCV
    61" HD-Tooth Bar, 72" HD-bolt-on edge, Frontier Forx
    "A" front hitch, Mid-PTO, Air ride seat, Horn, Back-up alarm, Rear work lights, External mirrors, Auto cruise
    60HD broom. 366 Blade, 59 blower, i-Match
    Looking for: Rear Wheel Weight Set

    Stuff for Sale:
    New 200CX/H130 Masts 25/2720-2032R
    New Jamison Bryce adapter, cart and chute

    “Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself” Mark Twain

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomd999 View Post
    The second, the tractor is used fairly regularly but for very short periods under light loads where the drive line does not come up to full operating temps then shut off. This is classified as severe service as the combustion byproducts and moisture collect in the oil and deplete additives. When an engine is operated at full temps, the byproducts and moisture boil off and the oil life is extended.
    Since I don't mow with the tractor it only sees occasional use during the summer usually for relatively short periods of time grading the driveway, hauling a load of brush or lifting something heavy.

    That is why I mentioned the condition of the oil on the dipstick after operating the tractor. My understanding is that combustion byproducts and moisture will usually manifest itself as milky or foamy oil on the dipstick if checked immediately after shutting off the engine. In fact, I see this exact situation on one of our riding mowers that only sees short periods of use.
    Superglidesport and Marlin like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    I have this same issue not only with my tractor but also both vehicles.

    Tractor gets around 40 hours a year - I change it annually per the manual.

    My pickup gets around 5000 miles a year - I change it every 6 months per the manual (every 7.5k miles or 6 months).

    Mrs C's turbo diesel VW gets around 500 (five hundred) miles a year. The manual calls for 10k changes. I change it every 2 years.

    An oil analysis costs more than the oil and filter so I just change it.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post


    Mrs C's turbo diesel VW gets around 500 (five hundred) miles a year. The manual calls for 10k changes. I change it every 2 years.
    I had two TDI's. 500 miles a year? Isn't that about a tank of fuel?
    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
    #compactfarmer

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