2025R Output Shaft Broken
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Like Tree23Likes

Thread: 2025R Output Shaft Broken

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Last Online
    11-10-2018 @ 01:40 PM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    4
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    My neighbor recently rolled his tractor (2025R) over moving some dirt on an incline. Unfortunately the output shaft that goes to the front driveshaft snapped off and now the shaft needs to be replaced. Wondering if anyone has replaced something similar or any has advise. Been looking around online but resources are few and far between. Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails D3FAFB27-6BD2-4FEB-8DDA-51414EA8D24E_1511301963514.jpeg F883FE60-B6CB-47C2-8C92-3A21CDEF2097_1511301986952.jpeg
    Last edited by TJLXR200R; 11-21-2017 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Adding pics
    etcallhome, Gizmo2 and BigJim55 like this.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    johnH123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:36 AM
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    4,405
    Thanks
    464
    Thanked 329 Times in 277 Posts
    Looks like its broken on the tranny side. You probably will have to split the tractor to replace it. If it is in fact broken on the axle end, just drop the axle and replace the input shaft.
    - 2002 John Deere 4510 TLB PR,
    -Woods BB60X 60" rotary cutter
    -Countyline box blade,
    -Allis Chalmers sickle mower,
    -RED windrow rake,
    -titan 48" 3000 pound forks/bale spear
    - Farm Star rear bale spear

    Yamaha Rhino 700, Yamaha Rhino 660,
    Murray 624 mower/38" deck

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Last Online
    11-10-2018 @ 01:40 PM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    4
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    Looks like its broken on the tranny side. You probably will have to split the tractor to replace it. If it is in fact broken on the axle end, just drop the axle and replace the input shaft.
    This is on the trans side.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:04 AM
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Posts
    16,571
    Thanks
    5,139
    Thanked 4,132 Times in 2,575 Posts
    Best advice I have is to get the tech manual:

    Number TM147619CD I think.

    https://techpubs.deere.com/Products/ProductSearch.aspx
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

  7. Top | #5
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:31 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,773
    Thanks
    5,950
    Thanked 4,058 Times in 3,000 Posts
    Looks like a big job.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 02:42 PM
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    1,283
    Thanks
    72
    Thanked 174 Times in 161 Posts
    So when I blew up my driveshaft on my old 2210 it also took the input shaft into the hydro static trans.

    I ended up breaking the tractor in half and replacing the shaft myself. It was an ordeal because it was July in Texas and I was right in the middle of moving to North Carolina. I used the tractor for loading pallets etc onto my trailer so it wasn't like I could just load it and deal with later.

    To me there are two ways to handle this:

    1. Take it to the dealer. I was looking at around $3k for that between parts and labor my deal. That was a drive shaft...related parts and then the input shaft. Your repair might not be that much but I doubt you get out of the dealer for less than $1500.

    2. Do it yourself, if the tractor is no longer under warranty/insurance. If your buddy is still making payments then it should be covered on the JD insurance since that is basically insurance on the tractor situation like this.

    If you do it your self then I recommend:

    1. Get a repair manual. Do not expect the new manual (new to me is for any model built after the 1980's) to be extremely detailed on what you need to do. It will be general in nature or at least the 2210 manual was. Read it several times. Go to JD parts.com and then also scout out what parts you need via the parts diagrams. I would get everything that is attached to that broken shaft and replace it. When I did my deal, I failed to get a bushing for the end of the engine where the driveshaft hooked up. That caused problems later since the old one was worn and I didn't know it.

    2. Take your time. Unless your buddy is in a big hurry for it, I would plan on doing this over a couple of weekends. None of what you are going to do is particularly hard, it's just a PIA to get the whole transaxle out from the tractor. Then dealing with the trans case could be a real problem depending on how the shaft is installed. With my deal it went right in/out and I didn't have to get super intrusive with the gear box.

    3. Take a lot of pictures as you disassemble. It will make up for the lack of pictures in the manual. The more pictures you have during the disassembly process the easier it gets to re-assemble.

    4. bag and identify all your bolts etc. There are many and they are mostly different sizes.

    5. Don't think you are going to cheat the system by leaving something on the tractor and working around it like a piece of cowling/seat pan etc. Just do what it takes to make access to the particular part on the tractor easier.

    There is a third option and that's drag the tractor in and trade it in. Dealers will take on some repair projects like this if they think they can make money on it. You are not going to get near the trade in value you would with a working tractor but it's better than a poke in the eye...maybe.

    I hope you buddy didn't get hurt during the rollover. Much easier to fix tractor than a human. Good luck. Take lots of pictures.
    3025e, D160 loader, Artillian Grapple, Forks, Hoe Bucket, Frontier Land Plane, Rotomec PDH300, Redline Systems 54 inch rock bucket, Heavy Hitch
    400 Garden Tractor, 35a Tiller, 54 inch plow, 60 inch deck

  9. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to 69project For This Useful Post:

    Gizmo2†(11-23-2017), johnH123†(11-24-2017), Kennyd†(11-23-2017), Zebrafive†(11-23-2017)

  10. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Last Online
    11-10-2018 @ 01:40 PM
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    4
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    2025R Output Shaft Broken

    Quote Originally Posted by 69project View Post
    So when I blew up my driveshaft on my old 2210 it also took the input shaft into the hydro static trans.

    I ended up breaking the tractor in half and replacing the shaft myself. It was an ordeal because it was July in Texas and I was right in the middle of moving to North Carolina. I used the tractor for loading pallets etc onto my trailer so it wasn't like I could just load it and deal with later.

    To me there are two ways to handle this:

    1. Take it to the dealer. I was looking at around $3k for that between parts and labor my deal. That was a drive shaft...related parts and then the input shaft. Your repair might not be that much but I doubt you get out of the dealer for less than $1500.

    2. Do it yourself, if the tractor is no longer under warranty/insurance. If your buddy is still making payments then it should be covered on the JD insurance since that is basically insurance on the tractor situation like this.

    If you do it your self then I recommend:

    1. Get a repair manual. Do not expect the new manual (new to me is for any model built after the 1980's) to be extremely detailed on what you need to do. It will be general in nature or at least the 2210 manual was. Read it several times. Go to JD parts.com and then also scout out what parts you need via the parts diagrams. I would get everything that is attached to that broken shaft and replace it. When I did my deal, I failed to get a bushing for the end of the engine where the driveshaft hooked up. That caused problems later since the old one was worn and I didn't know it.

    2. Take your time. Unless your buddy is in a big hurry for it, I would plan on doing this over a couple of weekends. None of what you are going to do is particularly hard, it's just a PIA to get the whole transaxle out from the tractor. Then dealing with the trans case could be a real problem depending on how the shaft is installed. With my deal it went right in/out and I didn't have to get super intrusive with the gear box.

    3. Take a lot of pictures as you disassemble. It will make up for the lack of pictures in the manual. The more pictures you have during the disassembly process the easier it gets to re-assemble.

    4. bag and identify all your bolts etc. There are many and they are mostly different sizes.

    5. Don't think you are going to cheat the system by leaving something on the tractor and working around it like a piece of cowling/seat pan etc. Just do what it takes to make access to the particular part on the tractor easier.

    There is a third option and that's drag the tractor in and trade it in. Dealers will take on some repair projects like this if they think they can make money on it. You are not going to get near the trade in value you would with a working tractor but it's better than a poke in the eye...maybe.

    I hope you buddy didn't get hurt during the rollover. Much easier to fix tractor than a human. Good luck. Take lots of pictures.
    Thanks for the advice. I stopped over at the dealership today and got some diagrams and insight from them.

    Parts will be ordered Friday and plan is to tear into it next week.

    Looks like Iíll have to split the tractor like you said. From there the front case has to come off the transmission, however like you said it doesnít seem too invasive.

    Luckily he didnít get hurt when it rolled.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by TJLXR200R; 11-22-2017 at 11:13 PM.

  11. Top | #8
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:31 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,773
    Thanks
    5,950
    Thanked 4,058 Times in 3,000 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by 69project View Post
    To me there are two ways to handle this:

    1. Take it to the dealer. I was looking at around $3k for that between parts and labor my deal. That was a drive shaft...related parts and then the input shaft. Your repair might not be that much but I doubt you get out of the dealer for less than $1500.

    2. Do it yourself, if the tractor is no longer under warranty/insurance. If your buddy is still making payments then it should be covered on the JD insurance since that is basically insurance on the tractor situation like this.

    If you do it your self then I recommend:

    1. Get a repair manual. Do not expect the new manual (new to me is for any model built after the 1980's) to be extremely detailed on what you need to do. It will be general in nature or at least the 2210 manual was. Read it several times. Go to JD parts.com and then also scout out what parts you need via the parts diagrams. I would get everything that is attached to that broken shaft and replace it. When I did my deal, I failed to get a bushing for the end of the engine where the driveshaft hooked up. That caused problems later since the old one was worn and I didn't know it.

    2. Take your time. Unless your buddy is in a big hurry for it, I would plan on doing this over a couple of weekends. None of what you are going to do is particularly hard, it's just a PIA to get the whole transaxle out from the tractor. Then dealing with the trans case could be a real problem depending on how the shaft is installed. With my deal it went right in/out and I didn't have to get super intrusive with the gear box.

    3. Take a lot of pictures as you disassemble. It will make up for the lack of pictures in the manual. The more pictures you have during the disassembly process the easier it gets to re-assemble.

    4. bag and identify all your bolts etc. There are many and they are mostly different sizes.

    5. Don't think you are going to cheat the system by leaving something on the tractor and working around it like a piece of cowling/seat pan etc. Just do what it takes to make access to the particular part on the tractor easier.

    There is a third option and that's drag the tractor in and trade it in. Dealers will take on some repair projects like this if they think they can make money on it. You are not going to get near the trade in value you would with a working tractor but it's better than a poke in the eye...maybe.

    I hope you buddy didn't get hurt during the rollover. Much easier to fix tractor than a human. Good luck. Take lots of pictures.
    Very nice.
    I'd like to repeat the "Take a lot of pictures as you disassemble" statement.
    Superglidesport and BigJim55 like this.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  12. Top | #9
    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:07 AM
    Location
    Joelton TN
    Posts
    19,993
    Thanks
    1,069
    Thanked 4,341 Times in 2,611 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Very nice.
    I'd like to repeat the "Take a lot of pictures as you disassemble" statement.
    And post them here.
    Gizmo2, Zebrafive, BillieS and 2 others like this.
    - Jason

    GreenTractorTalk.com Rules, Policies, and Terms of Use

    Subscribe to dieselshadowman on YouTube

    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


  13. Top | #10
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:31 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,773
    Thanks
    5,950
    Thanked 4,058 Times in 3,000 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    And post them here.
    Good one!
    BigJim55 likes this.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts