Too soon for synthetic?
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    Too soon for synthetic?

    Gonna do the first oil change on the Z920M at 8 hours as recommended. Book says the first 8 is the break in period. You guys think its too soon to go to synthetic?

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    Lots of engines out there being shipped from the factory with synthetic as the first fill, I say go for it. Never seen any real evidence in a published study showing conclusively that a synthetic wonít break in an engine as well as a mineral oil.
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    Not to early at all.
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    Unless the rings have no seated yet (if it has used oil), there is no reason to not change to synthetic. If it is using any oil, I would wait until the rings are seated.
    Marlin and Jeff B like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaidaddy10 View Post
    Gonna do the first oil change on the Z920M at 8 hours as recommended. Book says the first 8 is the break in period. You guys think its too soon to go to synthetic?
    No, but make sure you are using a Synthetic Oil designed for the small engines in these machines. Also, I would go with a specific premium brand. I use only Amsoil Synthetic Oil and they have oil designed for use in specific applications, like air cooled engines, Twin Cylinder Motorcycles (which are largely air cooled as well), diesel engines, you name it. The different blends help the oil perform their best in that machine. I run Synthetic oil in all of my vehicles, whether it is my SUV, diesel tractor, motorcycle, wife's SUV, air cooled Zero turn mower, etc. And every one has a specific oil just for it's unique features (diesel, air cooled, road use, etc).

    I would also pick one synthetic oil and stick with it. Some people say "All synthetics are the same" and that clearly is not the case. There are major differences in the various brands of oil and even in the grades of synthetic oils. Some are petroleum products blended to be called synthetic where others are truly a chemical blend of synthetic components. Different machines have different needs and having an oil designed for your machine just helps to extend the life of your engine and keep it performing well.

    Equally as important on these machines, if not even more important, is the quality of fluid used in the Hydro's. If a premium fluid is important in the engines, a premium fluid is critical for the long life of the hydro's as they endure a real tough life and heat cycles, etc. I would recommend finding the best recommended premium fluid for the hydro's and switching to that as well...............

    Good luck with your new machine.....
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    What Sulley said ^^^^

    My motorcycle had about 50 miles on it when it switched to AMSOIL synthetic.
    That's the only new anything I've ever had, so the only time I've gotten to switch "early"
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    Im not picking on anyone, or meaning to step on toes with any of this, but this comes up all the time where oil threads start and then die a slow agonizing death. The following is what Ive learned from 10+ years of reading about oil and oil analysis on BITOG forum, and from quite a few motorcycle forums and the tests they and several motorcycle magazines have performed on oil.

    Oil designed for air cooled vs water cooled is marketing only, especially anything made in the last 20 years. Its one more selling point for Amsoil, and one reason the people that honestly dont like them dont like them. Its misleading.

    There was a test done years ago with regard to motorcycle specific oils vs other oils. Turns out very little is actually different. With regard to diesel oils, even less is different. People will swear up and down that buying the motorcycle oil will give their bike a longer life. There is no changing the minds of these people. No amount of science or real world results will do it.
    Nothing wrong with that in and of itself, as anyone can spend their money however they want. The problem comes when people start spreading around rumors of how much better is is for your engine, etc.
    Many, many bikes are running around, both air and water cooled, running plain old dino car oil, with over 100,000 miles. Even more running around on Rotella T synthetic 5w40 diesel oil with that kind of mileage.
    Same with small engines. Quite a few running around on regular dino oil that are long past what most consider a reasonable engine life. Even more running synthetic of all kinds.
    Personally, I ran Rotella T in 3 of my bikes. Zero issues, except for less engine noise and better fuel mileage. None of the clutch slipping everyone (who didnt know) said Id get, or any of the other problems.
    I run Mobil TDT 5w40 in all my small engines, from my push mower to my Exmark and 318. They stay cleaner with it than other oils. Plus I run it in my VW, so its easy to have on hand.

    We have old tractors with thousands of hours, still plugging along on, using whatever oil the farmer had on hand.
    We have garden tractors (110s, 140s, not to mention all the Cubs and IH stuff), used and abused, that still run just fine after 40+ years running dino car oil.

    Bottom line is, if you've got the money, someone has a product you cant live without.
    The thing that keeps your engine running its best for its longest is regular oil changes with good oil of the proper grade, which isnt hard to find.
    Most major brands have good synthetic. Amsoil also makes a good one, but as I said, they rub some the wrong way with their advertising. If you can get it, and like it, I dont think you can go wrong with it. I like Mobil and Valvoline myself, but my 2025 will get Deeres 0w40 when the time comes. Its actually better in a few areas than the other two, but too much $$ to switch everything over to it. Plus my VW has made 335,000 miles on 5w40, no reason to change now.
    As I sand, I run synthetic. Do I NEED to? Nope, (with the exception of the VWs TDI) but it makes me feel better. Do what makes you feel better, but beware the hype associated with any product, there is a LOT of marketing nonsense floating around these days designed (and working) to separate you from your money.
    Last edited by IndianaJim; 08-14-2018 at 07:38 PM.
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    So actually changing the oil as needed is generally more important then what you change it with.

    I only have one person I truely take engine and oil advice from. He isnít brand loyal in the least. Brand/engine/use factored with test results lead his choices. Iím sure my questions seem trivial, and overthinking. Even the absolute pressure readings donít worry him, itís how they change.

    For my truck his advice was use whatever oil you like, and a factory filter if you donít want to do a million miles of testing to find a better choice.

    For the highest heat applications mobile one blends generally have the highest boiling point, but the difference between 400F and 600F mean you have bigger issues, and all internal tolerances are way out of spec anyway so failure is probable.

    His advice ends with ďthe outside might be dirty, but the oil is cleanĒ.

    He does recommend Dino oil for break in. Hours vary by the individual engine. But it bonds with the outer molecules of the engine parts. Similar to oil-lite brass. Heat cycles help more then hours in this process.
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    Good topic, and my 50 hour service is closing in, since I've been using my x739 for pushing rock. It's got a workout, to the point when I once shut it down without letting it cool at idle, she back-fired at me letting me know that I did a no-no. To add into my off-topic, I've been very pleased at the "grunt" this Garden Tractor has. I'm learning just how much "weight" is necessary and where, to get operational results at it's best. To also add, full throttle is not always necessary, to get the best results in torque for "moving" things.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    So actually changing the oil as needed is generally more important then what you change it with.
    I agree completely. More frequent oil changes with dino oil will be better for your engine than extended hours with some wiz-bang synthetic. The only exception would be if you operate at temperature extremes that cannot be met with a standard multi-viscosity dino oil.

    I change the oil in my X500 every 25 hrs which equates to twice a year. I use plain old JD 10W-30. It is plenty dirty by 25 hrs. I do use JD 0W-40 synthetic in my 2720 primarily for its cold weather starting properties as the majority of my tractor use is during the winter. I started out with 10W-30 dino and it definitely turns over easier with the 0W-40 when it is extremely cold. I'm lucky to put 25 hrs a year on the 2720 and even the synthetic gets changed out every fall so I'm not getting any extended engine hours out of it.
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