Well had my RIO switch fail on my MY2013 1025R TLB. I looked up the correct replacement part, shown first in the portion of the attachment (LVA21438). Noticed there was a substitute part number shown in the catalogue (AM127393) and wondered what that was and why it was no longer available. So I looked up both part numbers on e-Bay. Both were listed. Got looking around further and there was an upgraded non OEM part shown for both. One was around $20 bucks and the other was around $13. What was interesting, both had the same contacts shown. The more expensive was shown as a 3 way switch in the non OEM part, the other just as a PTO switch. So being out of work and paying for cancer treatments, I took a chance and purchased the cheaper heavy duty switch shown in the attachment and hoped for the best.
Well, to my delight it worked flawlessly.
That being said, I notices that the new switch had all contacts listed as NC. So I thought to myself, "Hmmmm, I wonder". Low and behold, the contacts on the old switch, the ones we had to jumper to do away with the RIO nonsense, had one set normally open when tested. Was not until you pulled up on the RIO, that it became a normally closed contact. So for poops and giggles, I removed the jumper on that set of contacts. Well guess what. No more need to have the jumper in there! So, if you want to defeat the RIO, without having to screw up your instrument cluster PTO RPM reading, this is a very cheap and effective method.
That said!! I can access my RIO from under the fire wall, which my understanding of the newest designs, is not the case now. Well, I unplugged the RIO (which is extremely hard) and tried to remove the switch, pressing in on the retaining clips. Well dunno if my strength is sapped with the radiation and Chemo, but I could not get it to come out. So I plugged the plug back up to the old switch. Then I thought, well maybe I could get it to pop out with a flat head screwdriver. Put the screwdriver to the underside corner of the lip, gave it a whack, and low and behold the switch popped out on that side. Did the same in the other corner, and up came that side. Pried up on both edges, and a little up pressure (like you were using the RIO as designed) and out came the switch, with the plug still attached. I had enough room to grab the old switch with one hand and the plug with the other, disconnect the old switch, then install the new switch. (I had tested it for operation because I could get to the plug prior to popping the old switch out). It popped right back in the hole from whence the old one came out, and done! I could have actually done this replacement, without removing the side panel. No mars on the dash, no damage to either switch. So this same method could most likely be used on the newest machines. Cannot attest to that fully, but my guess is wiring has not changed, just the addition of the block so it is not easy to get to the RIO plug. Something like the new bracket to keep you from putting your fingers in the fan! and since it actually does no harm to anything, you can pop it out and reinstall the old switch when selling, so you have no liability.
Anyway, that is what I did with my SCUT today, but thought this would be more useful in the general maintenance section of the forum.
Disclaimer: I am supplying the information, part numbers and method for replacement as information only. It falls on you, if you want to try this on your machine and you take fully responsibility for your own actions. That said, for those of us on here, with the ability to replace the switch, I am pretty sure there is little risk, either from the replacement or used of the machine there after, unless of course you are a mechanically inclined idiot!!! Seems to me that those reading this forum are not.... Good luck and God Bless. It worked perfectly for what I want. Your mileage, may vary.