Built a eHydro breakout harness
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Thread: Built a eHydro breakout harness

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    Built a eHydro breakout harness

    My 4310 wasn’t as responsive as I would like so I wanted to test the drive pedal potentiometers for adjustment and calibration. I would have to push the pedals half to three quarter inch before the tractor would start to move and it didn’t have a linear feel to it.

    The service manual called for the use of a JDG1575 Test Kit which is just a breakout box for the wiring to the potentiometers. I couldn’t locate one and didn’t want to back probe the wires on my tractor so I decided to build a breakout harness. This can also be used to adjust the throttle potentiometer.

    Materials and tools needed:
    1 – 3 pin Weatherpack connector set
    3 – 18-22 ga. T-taps
    3 – 18-22 gauge male quick disconnects
    1 – 4” 18ga blue wire
    1 – 4” 18ga yellow wire
    1 – 4” 18ga black wire
    1 – Delphi Packard type crimper
    1 – wire stripper
    1 – Digital volt meter
    To adjust the pots you also need a ¼” drive 8mm or 5/16’ socket on a ¼” drive pull handle and a 8mm or 5/16” wrench to hold the nuts.



    Assuming you have the tools the total parts should cost less than $10.

    I assembled the wires as they were colored on the tractor harness. The black is common/ground, the Yellow is 5V, and the Blue is the variable out to the control unit. A correct crimp will fold the terminal tabs over into the wire. I had to trim a little off the strain relief tabs to get them to roll over and crimp correctly. You push the seals on and strip the wires, then crimp the terminals. Make sure and assemble the male and female ends so the harness will plug onto the tractor harness and potentiometer in the right direction. Install the t-taps so they will point outward when the harness is on the tractor. Push the un-crimped male disconnects onto the t-taps. The wire opening on those is a perfect fit for the pointed meter probes.



    To test you put the tractor in neutral and set the parking brake. Connect the breakout harness inline with one of the pots and turn the key on. I had to trim some insulation back on the quick disconnect terminals for my probes to connect. Input voltage should be measured between the black and yellow wires. The TOT/BOT voltage will be measured between the black and blue wires. Your black/negative probe will remain plugged into the black wire while testing and adjusting.
    Specification:
    Input Voltage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 ± 0.2 volts
    TOT Position Signal Voltage1 . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 - 0.8 volts
    TOT Position Signal Voltage2 . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 - 0.8 volts
    BOT Position Signal Voltage . . . . . . . . . . . 3.6 - 4.5 volts
    1. Early Models S/N - H120712, - H131963, - H141271
    2. Late Models S/N H120713 -, H131964 -, H141272 –



    My tractor was supposed to read .4 to .8 volts at the top of it’s travel and 3.6 to 4.5 volts at the bottom. My reverse potentiometer was right in the middle of specs and my forward pot was a little on the low side. I went ahead and adjusted both forward and reverse pots to .780V at top which put them around 4.2V fully depressed. The tractor has a much more positive feel to it. I could probably fudge the numbers up some but I don’t want it to start traveling with the pedals at rest.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0870.JPG   IMG_0871.JPG   IMG_0874.JPG  
    Last edited by Old Machinist; 02-26-2019 at 06:07 PM.
    John Deere 4310 tractor, New Holland 575E backhoe, John Deere F725 mower

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Old Machinist For This Useful Post:

    bmichael (02-26-2019), Kennyd (02-26-2019), Oscar Leroy (02-27-2019), trboxman (02-26-2019), Zebrafive (02-27-2019)

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Excellent thread, descriptions and pictures! Thanks so muck for posting it
    Kenny

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    Old Machinist (02-26-2019)

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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    I wonder how many models this would work on? Maybe anything with pedals for forward/reverse?
    When it's warmer (if I remember), I'll have to look under my x485

    I HAVE the special crimpers!
    J
    John Deere 2030 w/245SL Loader
    John Deere 6415 w/640SL Loader
    John Deere 285 50" deck Stolen May 2017
    John Deere x485 62" deck AWS
    Kawasaki Mule 2510 4x4 bought new 1996
    Ford F250 4x4 bought new 1978

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zebrafive View Post
    I wonder how many models this would work on? Maybe anything with pedals for forward/reverse?
    When it's warmer (if I remember), I'll have to look under my x485

    I HAVE the special crimpers!
    Your x485 has mechanical linkages from the pedals to the transmission, it is not "eHydro", emphasis on "E" for electronic.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Kennyd For This Useful Post:

    Zebrafive (02-28-2019)

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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Your x485 has mechanical linkages from the pedals to the transmission, it is not "eHydro", emphasis on "E" for electronic.
    Thanks saved me building a tool I would never use, at least on the x485, but who knows I may find a deal on an e-hydro I can't pass up
    J
    John Deere 2030 w/245SL Loader
    John Deere 6415 w/640SL Loader
    John Deere 285 50" deck Stolen May 2017
    John Deere x485 62" deck AWS
    Kawasaki Mule 2510 4x4 bought new 1996
    Ford F250 4x4 bought new 1978

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