Water Separator Questions
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    Water Separator Questions

    I was curious as to what was in the water separator on my 2032R so I removed it. Here's what I found. The red ring was in the bottom of the bowl with the strainer sitting on top. I suspect it was assembled incorrectly. Can anyone verify?

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    In a two year old post by jgayman, he writes:
    Actually, there is a filter inside the water separator. In the 4105 operator's manual there are instructions for replacing this filter. It is odd that JD wants you to discard the filter each time as it is just a course plastic screen that can easily be cleaned. They have the same instructions in other tractor model manuals. What is really strange is that in the 2720/2032R operators manual they ONLY tell you to replace the fuel filter that is inside the water separator. There is no mention of the spin-on fuel filter. Weird, eh?
    I can confirm that the 2025R/2032R manual is the same. However the technical manual for the 2032R (that I was lucky enough to purchase before Mother Deere developed the $evere fondne$$) has better information in my opinion. Pay particular attention to paragraph 3, which I'm about to go do.

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    One last question. Will water in dyed Diesel take on some of the dye and look red? Or just clear. If I knew that, I may have not taken it apart Thanks for any incites and answers.
    glc, Gizmo2, SulleyBear and 1 others like this.
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    214 (1978), 46 mower with powerflow bagger, 31 tiller, 37A snow thrower
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    I think your parts seem backwards.
    Roger47 likes this.
    Keith

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    I think your parts seem backwards.
    In the "before" or "after" photo?

    Never mind. I'm gonna go with wrong from the dealer and right how I have it now. Makes way more sense.
    Last edited by Roger47; 03-06-2019 at 06:34 PM.
    Gizmo2 likes this.
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    Funny, the manual does not show the collar at the bottom of the stem that yours has.
    If the float was under it there would not be much room to rise and nothing to keep it centered?
    I think I agree with you on how it should be.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff B View Post
    Funny, the manual does not show the collar at the bottom of the stem that yours has.
    If the float was under it there would not be much room to rise and nothing to keep it centered?
    I think I agree with you on how it should be.
    Also, the Operator's Manual does not mention bleeding the system after replacing the sediment bowl. It just says the system is self bleeding, open the valve and to crank the engine. The Technical Manual shows the location of the bleed screw and explains how to do it. (Step 5 of the TM section I clipped into the original post.)

    My 214 Manual from 1978 is chock full of useful information. Seems the current manuals are chock full of useless info like "don't drive over any small dogs or children." Stuff that used to just be common sense.
    2032R classic, H130 Loader, 46 Backhoe, 54" Snowblower,
    214 (1978), 46 mower with powerflow bagger, 31 tiller, 37A snow thrower
    some other stuff

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger47 View Post
    Also, the Operator's Manual does not mention bleeding the system after replacing the sediment bowl. It just says the system is self bleeding, open the valve and to crank the engine. The Technical Manual shows the location of the bleed screw and explains how to do it. (Step 5 of the TM section I clipped into the original post.)

    My 214 Manual from 1978 is chock full of useful information. Seems the current manuals are chock full of useless info like "don't drive over any small dogs or children." Stuff that used to just be common sense.
    Correct, I always found it odd that the Owner's Manual doesn't mention the bleed screw. The TM does state that under normal circumstances the system is self-bleeding and the screw should only be needed in rare circumstances. However, that doesn't help the poor guy without a TM who is just doing routine annual maintenance and can't get his to self-prime.

    Another example, my 2720 Owner's Manual makes no mention of the spin-on fuel filter. Under maintenance the only fuel filter mentioned is the "screen" inside the water separator. In my mind the spin-on filter is much more important than the little plastic screen in the water separator (which, in 5 years I have never found to contain a single bit of debris).
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Correct, I always found it odd that the Owner's Manual doesn't mention the bleed screw. The TM does state that under normal circumstances the system is self-bleeding and the screw should only be needed in rare circumstances. However, that doesn't help the poor guy without a TM who is just doing routine annual maintenance and can't get his to self-prime.
    I do not recall seeing that the bleed screw would be needed only in rare instances in the 2032R TM. Not that it isn't there, though.

    On Edit: Just did a search in the TM for 'bleed screw' - no mention of it only being rarely needed. Also did a search for 'self priming' and 'self-priming' - only found in relation to a charge pump that has to with the hydraulic system.

    Another example, my 2720 Owner's Manual makes no mention of the spin-on fuel filter. Under maintenance the only fuel filter mentioned is the "screen" inside the water separator. In my mind the spin-on filter is much more important than the little plastic screen in the water separator (which, in 5 years I have never found to contain a single bit of debris).
    Same for the 2032R OM and TM.

    I saw the white line from the top of the strainer in the water separator. I could not tell if that was the float, so I took it apart. Found the red float under the strainer in the sediment bowl. No way it could float.

    I also did not know if water would get red from the dye in the Diesel. I put the Diesel that came from the sediment bowl in a jar and added water. No dye in the water.

    obtw, those aluminum lasagna pan lids from Sam's Club are handy in the shop. You can see one in the photo in post #1.
    Last edited by Roger47; 03-06-2019 at 11:55 PM.
    Gizmo2, goat704! and JD4044M like this.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger47 View Post
    I do not recall seeing that the bleed screw would be needed only in rare instances in the 2032R TM. Not that it isn't there, though.

    On Edit: Just did a search in the TM for 'bleed screw' - no mention of it only being rarely needed. Also did a search for 'self priming' and 'self-priming' - only found in relation to a charge pump that has to with the hydraulic system.
    I guess I was reading between the lines of what the TM was saying. Here is exactly what it says:

    "The machine incorporates a self bleeding fuel system which forces air out of the fuel filter, injection pump, and injection nozzles, and vents it back to the fuel tank. Fuel system bleeding is usually not necessary after a repair. If the system is completely drained and will not self-prime without overheating the starter, proceed as follows."

    I interpreted that to mean that under normal circumstances the manual bleed procedure is not required. This has proven to be correct because despite changing the fuel filter multiple times and draining the water separator regularly I have never needed to use the bleed screw. Keep in mind I'm referring to the 2720 and 2720 manual. Although as you know the Gen-1 2032R is exactly the same engine and fuel system.

    I also did not know if water would get red from the dye in the Diesel. I put the Diesel that came from the sediment bowl in a jar and added water. No dye in the water.
    I have no practical experience there as I have never used off-road diesel.
    Gizmo2, JD4044M and Roger47 like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    I guess I was reading between the lines of what the TM was saying. Here is exactly what it says:

    "The machine incorporates a self bleeding fuel system which forces air out of the fuel filter, injection pump, and injection nozzles, and vents it back to the fuel tank. Fuel system bleeding is usually not necessary after a repair. If the system is completely drained and will not self-prime without overheating the starter, proceed as follows."
    I tweaked the search of the TM and found the same thing.

    However, I am a believer that the less air you push thru a system, the better. Air provides squat for lubricity. I had searched for "water separator" when I found the section I put in Post #1. Makes perfect sense to get as much air out as possible.

    I have no practical experience there as I have never used off-road diesel.
    It's basically the same as the other, except, as a friend puts it, "It burns more cheaply."
    2032R classic, H130 Loader, 46 Backhoe, 54" Snowblower,
    214 (1978), 46 mower with powerflow bagger, 31 tiller, 37A snow thrower
    some other stuff

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    "The machine incorporates a self bleeding fuel system which forces air out of the fuel filter, injection pump, and injection nozzles, and vents it back to the fuel tank. Fuel system bleeding is usually not necessary after a repair. If the system is completely drained and will not self-prime without overheating the starter, proceed as follows."

    I interpreted that to mean that under normal circumstances the manual bleed procedure is not required. This has proven to be correct because despite changing the fuel filter multiple times and draining the water separator regularly I have never needed to use the bleed screw. Keep in mind I'm referring to the 2720 and 2720 manual. Although as you know the Gen-1 2032R is exactly the same engine and fuel system.
    I'm happy to hear that you have never needed to bleed your fuel system. But, here's more. This is from the technical manual, Fuel System Operation - Theory of Operation:
    If the machine runs out of fuel, or after servicing fuel
    strainer and water separator, air must be bled from the
    fuel strainer and water separator. Make sure that fuel
    shutoff valve is ON. Open bleed screw (C) two or three
    turns and observe bleed screw. When a steady stream of
    fuel with no bubbles is observed close bleed screw. Turn
    the key switch ON. Let the electric fuel transfer pump run
    (you should hear clicking sound) for 30 seconds to purge
    the air from the fuel system.
    I'm still of the belief that the less air pushed thru a fuel system, the better.

    Regarding the technical manual, Consistency is exceed only by its absence. It you don't like what you've read, look someplace else.
    SulleyBear likes this.
    2032R classic, H130 Loader, 46 Backhoe, 54" Snowblower,
    214 (1978), 46 mower with powerflow bagger, 31 tiller, 37A snow thrower
    some other stuff

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