Break in issue?
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    Ridgeracing's Avatar
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    Break in issue?

    Looking for help! Bought new tractor this past Dec 20th for snow removal at my vacation camp in Tug Hill NY. Summer time will probably not see much use. Tractor had 1.5hrs at purchace and now has 10.5hrs being 70% operated full throttle at*PTO*speed for snowblower usage. I would like to wait till at Least 50hrs of operation prior to 1st oil change but that may take over 2yrs. At the same time I would love to run a thinner oil for extreme cold temps we get. I did have a hard to starting it at 0 deg. cranking over slowly. I cannot use a block heater as I drive 5hrs to get to camp and need to open driveway to get to camp ASAP. Would like to run 0w40 synthetic but worried engine is not broken in enough. Would love to hear your thoughts!
    JD4044M likes this.
    2018 3025E W/loader, 64" 3-pt Frontier Snow blower,

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    I will offer you my thoughts. The 3025E manual states that regardless of hours, the engine oil and filter should be changed annually. On my 2720 I accumulated about the same number of hours as you. It's primary use is winter snow removal with a plow and blower. It's going on 6 years and I still only have around 130 hours. I change the engine oil and filter every year. I refilled with JD's Break-in Plus oil until the engine got to 100 hrs. After that I started filling with the 0W-40 synthetic for better cold starts.

    Question - do you keep a battery tender on your tractor?

    If not, I would be willing to bet that the slow cranking in cold weather has more to do with the battery than it does the 10W-30 that is in the tractor from the factory. If you have power in your storage building I would recommend something like a Battery Tender Jr. If no power I would recommend a solar battery tender. I started using one on my tractor 2 years ago and it has made a HUGE difference in the way it cranks in extremely cold temperatures.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Ridgeracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    I will offer you my thoughts. The 3025E manual states that regardless of hours, the engine oil and filter should be changed annually. On my 2720 I accumulated about the same number of hours as you. It's primary use is winter snow removal with a plow and blower. It's going on 6 years and I still only have around 130 hours. I change the engine oil and filter every year. I refilled with JD's Break-in Plus oil until the engine got to 100 hrs. After that I started filling with the 0W-40 synthetic for better cold starts.

    Question - do you keep a battery tender on your tractor?

    If not, I would be willing to bet that the slow cranking in cold weather has more to do with the battery than it does the 10W-30 that is in the tractor from the factory. If you have power in your storage building I would recommend something like a Battery Tender Jr. If no power I would recommend a solar battery tender. I started using one on my tractor 2 years ago and it has made a HUGE difference in the way it cranks in extremely cold temperatures.
    Sorry I did not mention that. I do have power and keep a battery tender on it always under tarped cover till I get unit under building. I also have a block heater but does me no good when I only go up every 1-3 weeks. Don't want to keep it on and attract critters and run electric bill up. So I am guessing you are suggesting to change oil yearly with JD 10W-30 break in oil till 100hr mark? I wonder if 50hrs enough to switch to synthetic oil?
    rtgt and PJR832 like this.
    2018 3025E W/loader, 64" 3-pt Frontier Snow blower,

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridgeracing View Post
    Sorry I did not mention that. I do have power and keep a battery tender on it always under tarped cover till I get unit under building. I also have a block heater but does me no good when I only go up every 1-3 weeks. Don't want to keep it on and attract critters and run electric bill up. So I am guessing you are suggesting to change oil yearly with JD 10W-30 break in oil till 100hr mark? I wonder if 50hrs enough to switch to synthetic oil?
    There is no way of determining for sure. It really depends on the usage during the initial 50 hours. Owner's of other tractor models have reported switching to synthetic prior to 100 hrs. Most had 50+ hard hours of mowing or other engine loading tasks and felt the engine had been given a sufficient break-in workout.
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Ridgeracer, Everyone has their own opinion about oils, there type, viscosity, & when to change. Do a search, here or other forums, and you'll find this to be true!

    That said, this is MY OPINION! Years back, like '82, I bought a 314 that made a horrible grinding/scraping sound when first cranked after sitting a day or two...summer or winter. I just started using syn oil in my Chevy pickup and tried it in my 314...NO more grinding/scraping on startup, summer or winter. I am a strong believer in syn oil.

    As far as "when" to start using it, that's tough to say. Many vehicles come from Detroit with syn oil and 0 hours. It all depends on surface finish inside the engine. New manufacturing processes leave a finish that does not require any break-in period, so syn oil is good from day 1. Being a new tractor, your finishes could be (??) good enough to use syn oil, HOWEVER, it may also affect your warranty ! Check with your dealer.

    I know this doesn't help with your dilemma ! Bob
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    Ridgeracing's Avatar
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    I was thinking of possibly changing it before next winter (approximately 20hrs) to a thinner non synthetic like 5W20 till broke in more? But want to make sure it's compliant with JD. Thoughts?
    rtgt likes this.
    2018 3025E W/loader, 64" 3-pt Frontier Snow blower,

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    That sounds to thin for me. I’d run the weights the manual says in synthetic. My opinion is the traditional idea of breaking in an engine before switching to synthetic has kind of fallen by the wayside. I’d probably just switch to what you want on the first oil change.
    2018 2025r, FEL, 60" autoconnect deck, pallet forks, some other stuff.

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Document from mother Deere themselves on the subject....

    PMB Product:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	B204CE0A-8297-43CB-9C1C-FAE25C12A774.jpeg 
Views:	6 
Size:	47.0 KB 
ID:	675390
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridgeracing View Post
    I was thinking of possibly changing it before next winter (approximately 20hrs) to a thinner non synthetic like 5W20 till broke in more? But want to make sure it's compliant with JD. Thoughts?
    Check the approved blends that are listed in your manual. I don’t see 5W20 in any of my manuals.



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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Ridgeracing's Avatar
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    I was looking at the fact that JD break in oil is (heavier) 10W30 and JD synthetic is 0W40 that going with 5W20 (non synthetic) would be thinner than JD break in oil but not as thin as JD 0W40 synthetic. Of course I have to see if the oil meets the other tech data recommended by JD.
    2018 3025E W/loader, 64" 3-pt Frontier Snow blower,

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