Advice on how to loosen a very tight bolt?
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    USAFRet's Avatar
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    Advice on how to loosen a very tight bolt?

    Hi,

    I purchased a new extended hook for my ihitch and was trying last weekend to remove the nuts. I have a very large wrench but I cannot get the nut to come loose.

    Is this normal and do I just need to give it more pressure by maybe using an extension to get more leverage?

    The hitch is about 3 years old and not left out in the weather. (my tractor has a nice home) I have used WD40 but that didnt help.

    Thanks for your help!
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    kylew's Avatar
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    Yes the factory nuts are on there tight as sin. I used a 3 foot piece of pipe on a 1/2" ratchet to get mine off.
    glc, etcallhome, OxPath and 4 others like this.
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    Try some other penetrant, IIrC PB blaster tested very well in a YouTube video.

    Try an impact wrench, sometimes the hammering of an impact is more effective in starting a stick fastener than pure torque is.

    Heat, heat the nut, not the bolt and try removing it.

    Lastly try more brute force with a longer extension, etc.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    The top hook on the iMatch is notoriously very tight.

    Got mine loose with a 25Ē breaker bar - a tool I use a lot since I donít have much power in my hands anymore.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-62729.html

    Click image for larger version.†

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    I agree with others and will add WD-40 isn't a penetrating fluid that will help much. You are better off getting a penetrating fluid. They are also best to spray, let it sit overnight and do it again. Keep repeating until you break it free.

    In the military we would use "cheater bars" which were large sections of metal pipe with an opening big enough to go over the handle on a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar. A pipe that is 4' long or so will loosen about anything we ever tried to mess with. Well it will either loosen it, break the bolt or the breaker bar. The tricky part is keeping the socket on the end of the bolt/nut. You can strip them pretty easily if you don't keep things lined up.
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    Honestly fellas, mine broke free easily with an extension. Didn't need heat, oil, impact, etc. Just a longer lever did the trick.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sennister View Post
    I agree with others and will add WD-40 isn't a penetrating fluid that will help much. You are better off getting a penetrating fluid. They are also best to spray, let it sit overnight and do it again. Keep repeating until you break it free.

    In the military we would use "cheater bars" which were large sections of metal pipe with an opening big enough to go over the handle on a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar. A pipe that is 4' long or so will loosen about anything we ever tried to mess with. Well it will either loosen it, break the bolt or the breaker bar. The tricky part is keeping the socket on the end of the bolt/nut. You can strip them pretty easily if you don't keep things lined up.
    Been there/done that with my pickup a couple years ago.

    Making a long story short - getting the lug nuts off my F-150 one year to change over to winter set took a 1/2 breaker bar with a 5í pipe. I thought each and every one would break something with all the force I was putting on the pipe. When the lug nuts broke loose there was a heck of a ďbangĒ.

    I was using a really old set of S-K tools at the time. I had to use a 2Ē extension so I could keep the breaker bar/pipe in line. Like you said itís hard to keep the socket square on the nut. On the very last one - the 32nd nut - something did break - it was the 2Ē extension. But the nut must have broken loose at the same time.

    I wonít get into the whole story but in the end I had a long talk with the shop supervisor at the Ford dealership shop.
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    The top hook on the iMatch is notoriously very tight.

    Got mine loose with a 25Ē breaker bar - a tool I use a lot since I donít have much power in my hands anymore.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-62729.html

    I bought the cheaper version that does not have the "rubber" handle grip. Also 1/2" and 25" long.
    For when it wont work, I bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 40" handle and a 3/4' to 1/2" adapter

    Now I am thinking of getting a 3/4" ratchet head and 36" handle Been looking at used ones on ebay
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zebrafive View Post
    I bought the cheaper version that does not have the "rubber" handle grip. Also 1/2" and 25" long.
    For when it wont work, I bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 40" handle and a 3/4' to 1/2" adapter

    Now I am thinking of getting a 3/4" ratchet head and 36" handle Been looking at used ones on ebay
    I just use a 5í cheater pipe if I need it. If I break the HF breaker bar itís no big deal as I paid around $15 for it.

    If that isnít enough then I have no business messing with it.

    However - I just finally broke down and ordered a Milwaukee Fuel mid torque impact wrench this morning. Itís something Iíve needed for a long time. I didnít opt for the big boy max torque job because, again, if I need something like that I shouldnít be messing with it.
    ~Stan~
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    Several years ago I had to put a bushing, which was left off by the dealer, on the center link frame on my MX7 rotary cutter. The nut was impossible to remove with wrench, cheater bar, impact wrench, torque multiplier, etc. Wound up cutting the bolt at the head with a sawzall to remove. Believe the bolt was a grade 8 so cutting it was a job also, until I put rotary cutter on jack stands so that the frame flex was removed. Dealer admitted they left the bushing off but said no problem to install so said OK give me the bushing and Iíll get this done in just a few minutes. A few minutes turned into a couple of hours but won the battle, so to speak.


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