08 F250 Rear axle seal
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Thread: 08 F250 Rear axle seal

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    08 F250 Rear axle seal

    Hopefully someone has been through this headache!

    Last fall when I replaced those rotten backing plates on my F250, I researched the parts I would need. There is a lot of confusion and debate about these axle seals (technically it is a hub seal since it is a floating axle). Based on consensus on several truck forums, I settled on a National Seal (370247A). This is a one piece seal. I can't say for certain if the factory was originally a one piece seal. It definitely came apart in two pieces. Everything was perfectly dry when I took it apart. I put everything together and it seemed to be Ok. Then, last month I went to adjust the parking brakes only to find that they were wet. The driver side was worse, but they both had some oil on them. So, I went to Ford this time and they spec'd a part based on my VIN. This is a job 3 2008, so I am always aware that it may be more like an 09 than an 08. He sold me BRS-179s. I also bought no e-brake shoes rather than trying to wash off the old ones. I put everything back together and drove it. Now, 3 weeks later I have a PUDDLE of oil on the floor. It is the driver's side leaking. Passenger side appears to be dry. But this thing is leaking BAD now. The first thing I checked was to see if the axle nut backed off or maybe I never seated it well. Everything feels good with the tire in the air. So, now I am back to wondering about this elusive 2-piece seal. The Fordparts website calls for a BRS-116 (for both a generic 08 F250 and my VIN. But also shows none in stock locally. It is not clear in the drawing that it is a 2 piece seal, but I suspect it may be. It also says that it is superseded by another part but I can't get that part to come up. Full part # for the BRS 116 is 1175 (BRS-116). It says it is supersed by 1177. But a search on their site for an 1177 goes back to the BRS-116. Fun, eh? Oh, and some of the research I am doing is saying that the 116 was replaced by a BRS-180. So, what did this guy sell me? WTH?

    The best part is that I am towing my 5th wheel 800 miles next week. I need this fixed and I have to have some level of confidence in it.

    If anyone has any history with this challenge, please let me know. Meanwhile, I am going outside to tear it apart. Either way I am replacing that seal!

    Lee
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

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    89420's Avatar
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    are installing the seal dry? did you put grease on the rubber seal before you reassembled ?

    should be one piece oil seal ford # 4c3z1s177a or national 370247a i think.. make sure you grease up the seal so it dont have a dry start
    Last edited by 89420; 08-08-2017 at 07:56 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89420 View Post
    are installing the seal dry? did you put grease on the rubber seal before you reassembled ?
    If you didn't grease the new seal that's your problem. Also make absolutely sure that the place this seal rides on is clean and smooth.
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    I did not slather grease on the seal. I did, however put a shot of gear oil in before I put the axle in. The surface was clean and still is, although as would be expected, it goes from polish spindle to rough rusty surface. I am wondering if this seal rides a bit further inboard than the last one. The seal is definitely destroyed, so the greasing could be the culprit. The part# on the Ford invoice is CC3Z1S175A which does not match the suggested part above.

    This is what the seal looks like after only 800 miles

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170808_210456322.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.75 MB 
ID:	427682

    And the spindle (if that is the correct) looks like

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170808_210629934.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	1.82 MB 
ID:	427690

    So, here is the tough question. When I get a new seal, do I need to get 2? Do I presume that the other side will fail still? Or is it possible I got lucky on one side and not the other? I read 2 or 3 very detailed and picture heavy threads about doing this job and honestly I never saw anyone grease the seal. I can see why it is a good idea, I just never thought to do it. Is there any grease that is better than another?

    Thanks for the input.

    Lee
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

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    89420's Avatar
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    its a wet type seal always put a big glob of grease around the seal.. only install dry if the directions say so for the seal. some are pre lubed with a dry lubricant. that one isnt. ( also before pounding in the new seal put some red locktite around the outer metal edge this helps seal that area. i have done 100's of seals this way no problems by the time the gear oil reaches and lubes the seal lip normally to late. if the other sides not leaking dont mess with it....

    if you dont follow these steps better keep them in stock lol
    BigJim55 likes this.
    1935 jd model D
    65 110 rf
    77 jd 80 cart
    83 420 rear pto, 3 point hitch
    88 332 46"deck s
    89 420 60" deck
    89 318
    jd #8 chainsaw (remington)
    2)jd 35ev chainsaws (echo)
    jd 50v chainsaw (echo
    jd 60v chainsaw (echo)
    jd 70v chainsaw (echo) sold
    jd 80ev chainsaw (echo)
    jd cs40 chainsaw (efco 940)
    husqvarna 240 chainsaw
    husqvarna 372xp chainsaw
    husqvarna 455 chainsaw
    2)dolmar 117 chainsaws
    dolmar 100 chainsaw

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    89420's Avatar
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    oh btw the 175a seal u got should be for f350 with duals 177a is for single wheel have parts guy pull both u will see
    1935 jd model D
    65 110 rf
    77 jd 80 cart
    83 420 rear pto, 3 point hitch
    88 332 46"deck s
    89 420 60" deck
    89 318
    jd #8 chainsaw (remington)
    2)jd 35ev chainsaws (echo)
    jd 50v chainsaw (echo
    jd 60v chainsaw (echo)
    jd 70v chainsaw (echo) sold
    jd 80ev chainsaw (echo)
    jd cs40 chainsaw (efco 940)
    husqvarna 240 chainsaw
    husqvarna 372xp chainsaw
    husqvarna 455 chainsaw
    2)dolmar 117 chainsaws
    dolmar 100 chainsaw

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    89420's Avatar
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    click...https://parts.infinitiusa.com/parts/...00224&siteid=2


    here unless ur f250 is a dually then this is what you need notice it says w/o dual wheels f350/f250 single wheel same
    show parts guy this lol

    this is what they gave you..https://parts.infinitiusa.com/parts/...00224&siteid=2


    tell them you want refund on wrong seals
    Last edited by 89420; 08-08-2017 at 10:36 PM.
    1935 jd model D
    65 110 rf
    77 jd 80 cart
    83 420 rear pto, 3 point hitch
    88 332 46"deck s
    89 420 60" deck
    89 318
    jd #8 chainsaw (remington)
    2)jd 35ev chainsaws (echo)
    jd 50v chainsaw (echo
    jd 60v chainsaw (echo)
    jd 70v chainsaw (echo) sold
    jd 80ev chainsaw (echo)
    jd cs40 chainsaw (efco 940)
    husqvarna 240 chainsaw
    husqvarna 372xp chainsaw
    husqvarna 455 chainsaw
    2)dolmar 117 chainsaws
    dolmar 100 chainsaw

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    Quote Originally Posted by ljnelson109 View Post
    I did not slather grease on the seal. I did, however put a shot of gear oil in before I put the axle in. The surface was clean and still is, although as would be expected, it goes from polish spindle to rough rusty surface. I am wondering if this seal rides a bit further inboard than the last one. The seal is definitely destroyed, so the greasing could be the culprit. The part# on the Ford invoice is CC3Z1S175A which does not match the suggested part above.

    This is what the seal looks like after only 800 miles

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170808_210456322.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.75 MB 
ID:	427682

    And the spindle (if that is the correct) looks like

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20170808_210629934.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	1.82 MB 
ID:	427690

    So, here is the tough question. When I get a new seal, do I need to get 2? Do I presume that the other side will fail still? Or is it possible I got lucky on one side and not the other? I read 2 or 3 very detailed and picture heavy threads about doing this job and honestly I never saw anyone grease the seal. I can see why it is a good idea, I just never thought to do it. Is there any grease that is better than another?

    Thanks for the input.

    Lee
    Like was stated no lube on the seal will burn it up. Some seals also come pre lubed.

    However that rusty spindle is most likely the problem. If the seal so much as touches that rust it will ruin the new seal. I'd try to remove as much of it as you can with some fine sandpaper. This will give you a way better chance of success. You may end up having to replace that spindle.

    Back in the day someone in the aftermarket made repair seals for this problem. The lip of the new seal rode further out on the spindle. This gave the seals lip a cleaner surface to ride on. Don't know if they are still available.
    2014 X540 with HDAP tires, 54" deck, brush guard, arm rests and cargo bag.
    JD 48" plow with angle from seat kit & heavy duty skid shoes.
    4 suitcase weights and chains.
    JD tow behind spreader.
    JD 42" lawn sweeper.
    JD 10P cart.
    JD JS61 RWD walk behind mower.
    Stihl KM110 power head with pole saw, shaft extension, power scythe, curved shaft edger, 2 straight shaft cutters (string & blade).
    Stihl MS180-CBE 16" saw.
    Stihl SH86C hand held blower vac.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 89420 View Post
    click...https://parts.infinitiusa.com/parts/...00224&siteid=2


    here unless ur f250 is a dually then this is what you need notice it says w/o dual wheels f350/f250 single wheel same
    show parts guy this lol

    this is what they gave you..https://parts.infinitiusa.com/parts/...00224&siteid=2


    tell them you want refund on wrong seals
    Thanks for posting those links but I have to admit I feel like the wording is ambiguous. The first one says F350 w/o dual wheels. The 2nd, says F250, F350, w/dual wheels. First off, have they ever factory built an F250 w/dual wheels? The 2nd link implies that it is for an F250 OR F350 OR "w/dual wheels". The 2nd comma is poorly placed (in my opinion). The screenshot below is from Ford Parts site using my VIN and shows the seal the guy sold me. Also note that photo of the seal shows that it was pre-greased, but honestly I can't recall. It did definitely have the red locktite on the outside of the frame. I am not really sure where to go from here!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Seal.JPG 
Views:	12 
Size:	95.0 KB 
ID:	427858
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    Like was stated no lube on the seal will burn it up. Some seals also come pre lubed.

    However that rusty spindle is most likely the problem. If the seal so much as touches that rust it will ruin the new seal. I'd try to remove as much of it as you can with some fine sandpaper. This will give you a way better chance of success. You may end up having to replace that spindle.

    Back in the day someone in the aftermarket made repair seals for this problem. The lip of the new seal rode further out on the spindle. This gave the seals lip a cleaner surface to ride on. Don't know if they are still available.
    Based on my other post, I think that you are on to something with this rusty spindle. I really am not prepared to replace that spindle this week! I wonder if this elusive two part seal is the answer. I just don't know how to put my hands on one. If I understand the 2 part seal correctly, it provides new surfaces for both sides of the seal.

    The timing on this is all wrong. If I wasn't leaving on a trip next week, I would consider cleaning it up and trying the same seal (new part, same part #) again. But, I could easily burn through that seal on the first day.

    Ugh!
    Last edited by ljnelson109; 08-09-2017 at 05:22 AM.
    H-D dealer dude likes this.
    2305, 200CX loader w/53" bucket, 62C MMM, and 47 SB.

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