What trailer do I need for a 1025R w/backhoe, loader and MMM?
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Thread: What trailer do I need for a 1025R w/backhoe, loader and MMM?

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    What trailer do I need for a 1025R w/backhoe, loader and MMM?

    Hi All
    What length and capacity of trailer would I need for A 1025R all set up? Truck is a 2017 Chev LTZ half ton 6.0L Gas w/integrated trailer brake controller?
    would an Aluminum trailer of the correct lenght and cap. be ok vs steel?
    Thanks in advance
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    Quote Originally Posted by Niblet View Post
    Hi All
    What length and capacity of trailer would I need for A 1025R all set up? Truck is a 2017 Chev LTZ half ton 6.0L Gas w/integrated trailer brake controller?
    would an Aluminum trailer of the correct lenght and cap. be ok vs steel?
    Thanks in advance
    A 16' bumper pull with tandem 3500 axles would be enough for that. The aluminum trailers are sure nice but get very expensive for what they are. If you go aluminum, I would get heavier axles and make it more attractive if you need to sell it down the road.

    Brett
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    ^^^ This.

    I got a generic Leonard 16' trailer. My 1025 TLB fits fine w/ bucket and backhoe, maybe 2' clearance at the ramp. The tractor fits real nice right over the wheels, so the tongue stays level.

    I can't remember if I tested it with the MMM installed, but I think I did. Should be ok if you raise the deck all the way up when traversing the ramp.

    I got 4 20K straps and they fit fine through the stake pockets. I use axle straps up front and there's a good anchor points on the frame back aft. I will cut the straps almost in half- I think they are made for tractor trailers, and the tails are waaaaaaaay to long.

    Tows fine behind a 2004 Cherokee w/ the V8, but I do need to install the brake controller. Got it, but haven't got around to it yet.

    ETA: tongue level with a 2" drop ball. You might need a 4" drop? Also chains are a little long, need to cut maybe 2 links. Trailer comes w/ a standard 7 pin round connector.

    Get the dealer to throw in the box on the front of the trailer. It sure makes keeping tiedowns, pins and gloves handy!
    Last edited by 9MMMAC; 08-28-2017 at 02:17 PM.
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    I use a 20' trailer. I don't find the 20' any more difficult to pull that a shorter trailer. A pickup will fit on the trailer I have. I can get my tractor and 2 atvs on it. One never knows what you may need to haul in the future.
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    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    I have an 18' trailer and would suggest you look at something longer than 16' if you can fit it - especially if you're looking at something with a beaver tail at the back to make loading a bit easier. The very small difference in purchase price now is FAR less than what you'll lose by having to trade up later... And trailers are like tractors - you buy bigger than you think you'll need and you end up realizing you could use even bigger than that.

    I wouldn't bother with aluminum. They're very spendy, don't reduce the overall weight "massively" for an open trailer, and require more attention in terms of ensuring that the metal isn't corroding. And watch out if you need something repaired - good luck finding someone that can weld aluminum reliably. Steel is heavier, but much more solid and will re-sell easier if you ever decide to. If you tow anywhere when there's salt on the roads, it will wreak havoc on aluminum if there is any dissimilar metals in contact anywhere.
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    Here was my 1026R on my 18' car hauler. The extra length is nice, I would have bought a 20' if they made one at the time

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I use an 18' tandem car trailer for mine - same configuration as yours. I also looked at a 14' dump trailer and actually pulled mine onto it just to see how it fits. No issue other than you need to cock the hoe to the left or right to get the door to close.

    A 16' dump would take care of that but really for the money, size and what you are towing it with a 14' fits the bill.
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    I have an Aluma 14' single axle aluminum utility trailer. No way I would haul a 1 Series with FEL, MMM and BH on it even if it would all fit. Doubt it would.

    Really it shouldn't matter but what you didn't say is are you routinely hauling the machine on this or are you talking about just trying to get the equipment home 2 miles from the dealer? If I was making runs to the cabin nearly every weekend I would probably invest in much bigger steel car trailer just so I don't have to worry about it. Many states differ in the requirements but most say any trailer combination weighing more than 3,000lbs require trailer brakes. Some are less than that but this is what I found in a quick search for WA.

    WASHINGTON
    Every trailer and pole trailer, and every vehicle combination must be equipped with service brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold the vehicle under all conditions of loading, and on any grade incident to its operation. Every trailer and pole trailer must be equipped with brakes acting on wheels except for those not exceeding a Gross Weight (GW) of 3,000 lbs. if the total weight on and including the wheels of the trailer or trailers does not exceed 40% of the GW of the towing vehicle when connected to the trailer.
    You indicated you already have an integrated controller in the truck so that makes it easier.

    Personally I agree with others, I wouldn't bother with an aluminum trailer. Go for a heavier duty steel one. You never know what else you want to haul in the future so go a little bigger than the minimums.

    As you get into bigger trailers and heavier loads there are all kinds of things to look at. We have a travel trailer and have been through all of that. Here is a hint, the max towing capacity really doesn't mean anything when you look at other factors like max tongue weight, max cargo capacity and axle limits on a truck. You would have blown way past those limits well before ever getting to the max towing capacity which is little more than a marketing stat. You should be fine on all of those however.


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    What rear end does the truck have? And do you have the Max Tow package?

    The motor has plenty of power, but having the 3.42 rear end along with the stiffer shocks from the Z71 package gives you quite a bit of tow capacity. I think Max Tow on that truck would put you over the 10k mark.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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    Awesome Topic!

    Quote Originally Posted by Niblet View Post
    Hi All
    What length and capacity of trailer would I need for A 1025R all set up? Truck is a 2017 Chev LTZ half ton 6.0L Gas w/integrated trailer brake controller?
    would an Aluminum trailer of the correct lenght and cap. be ok vs steel?
    Great question ! And really great responses! I'm in the market, and have spent much time debating (with myself, wife doesn't care ) "how long", "how wide", etc. I have an F150 w/ brake control, and hoping to kill 2 birds with 1 stone - a dump trailer! I have my eye on a Trail Loader 72 X 12 w/ tandem 5K axles.

    No matter what size or configuration you look at, it's only good 80% of the time. It really takes 2 trailers, but trying to do it with 1, so just have to weigh the trade-offs!
    Merrell



    - JD 1025R, R4's, H120 FEL w/ Kens Bolt-on Grab Hook/Clevis combo (awesome!), 60" autoconnect MMM, 36" forks

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