Tie down points on your tractor
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Thread: Tie down points on your tractor

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    Will's Avatar
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    Tie down points on your tractor

    How do you guys 'hook' to your tractor ?

    I'm pretty satisfied with my front connection, just a simple shackle in the frame hole. (pic 1)

    Never been to happy about the rears though. I've done it two ways up till now.

    One was a large shackle on the center drawbar. That was OK, but the whole rear relied on that one shackle. And god forbid should one side chain fail the other would become really loose. (I didn't get a pic of this way)

    Second way was a shackle around the same shaft the draw bars connect to. It felt more secure but man, what a pain to reach in attach, Almost had to crawl in on my back. (pic 2)

    This weekend I took that draw bar and glued a large sling ring to the end and replaced my chain ends to slip hooks w/ spring retainers. (pic 3+4)

    I did a test load and tie down and I'm liking it already. Very easy to reach in and hook and un-hook.

    Would love to see how others do it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1 Front.jpg   2 shackle tiedown.jpg   3 drawbar.jpg   4 drawbar tiedown.jpg  

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    Brian's Avatar
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    When I tow mine, I remove the draw bar. That allows me to get 2 chains hooked up to the rear. The hole is large enough for 3 chains. Its nice if you need to strap down an implement also.

    The front I use the black bumper that the loader sits on. I run a chain to each side of that. I don't have pictures but I will take them next time I load up.



    Brian

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    Uncle Wayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    This weekend I took that draw bar and glued a large sling ring to the end and replaced my chain ends to slip hooks w/ spring retainers. (pic 3+4)
    That's good idea but why didn't you move the ring a little farther back so the drawbar could still be used for pulling / towing i.e. as a trailer hitch?
    Wayne
    2013 JD 4520 CUT with 400X FEL
    1942 LA John Deere
    1910 John Deere Freight Wagon (restored)
    1946 John Deere Series 300 two disk plow

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    Will's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Wayne View Post
    why didn't you move the ring a little farther back so the drawbar could still be used for pulling / towing i.e. as a trailer hitch?
    Hi Wayne, mostly cause this bar only gets used as a tie down point. I just have no use for it as a 'hitch'.

    To move trailers around short distances, I use my front hitch gizmo. (see photobucket link)

    Secondly, to move far enough for hitch hole use, it would kill the use of hole "pin 1" and force the use of hole "pin 2". (see pic)

    These pin holes are the only 2 that can be used for location. And pin 2 really sticks the bar out there and thinking it may could induce "bad" leverage.

    That said, I'm thinking of ordering a replacement just to have one unmodified.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cropped.jpg  

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    Uncle Wayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will View Post
    Hi Wayne, mostly cause this bar only gets used as a tie down point. I just have no use for it as a 'hitch'.
    You've got a very good idea here and it's better and easier than the way I've been doing it. I'll probably copy your idea except I think I'll move the ring out to the very end (narrow part) of the drawbar and weld it across there. Then weld the other side of the ring to the flat part of the drawbar like you did. It won't set level with the drawbar like yours but it will allow me to still use the drawbar as a trailer hitch.

    Thanks for sharing that idea with us Will.
    Wayne
    2013 JD 4520 CUT with 400X FEL
    1942 LA John Deere
    1910 John Deere Freight Wagon (restored)
    1946 John Deere Series 300 two disk plow

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    dmay's Avatar
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    With the tractor facing forward on the trailer I first connect a nylon tow strap with hooks to a shackle in the rear drawbar and rear trailer sides in a triangle orientation. I hook this up then drive the tractor forward to take up slack. Then I use 6, 2" wide x 2 ft long nylon axle straps wrapped around the front and rear axles. Two go to a center forward ratchet strap. Tractor is now secured for forward/backward movement. Then 4 straps around the axles at each wheel which connect to ratchet tie down straps to the side of the trailer. This holds the tractor for roll. Also for forward/backward movement.
    Darrell

    2010 JD2320, 200CX, 53" Bucket, 54" QH SnowBlower, iMatch, Ballast Box, LR1072, RC2048, GM3060, 647 Tiller, SS1023B

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    Will's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Wayne View Post
    I'll move the ring out to the very end (narrow part) of the drawbar and weld it across there. Then weld the other side of the ring to the flat part of the drawbar like you did. It won't set level with the drawbar like yours but it will allow me to still use the drawbar as a trailer hitch.
    Ah, OK, I understand now. That might have been the better way to go.
    Stimpy likes this.

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    t613's Avatar
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    Clevis through the front frame mount (on weight rack) and a clevis shackle in the 1" hole in the drawbar. I loop the front chain through the clevis secure to the two front corner tie-down areas on the trailer with a binder, and both rear chains from the drawbar to the two rear corners(tightened when the front chain is tightened). All grade 70 chain, 5/16".

    Never had a problem. Tied multiple cars down on it the same way with no issues.

    Basically the same way you did it, but without welding the loop on the drawbar.

    A good topic for discussion!

    Tim
    2011 JD 2720, 200cx FEL, 60" rear blade

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    jenkinsph's Avatar
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    When I tie down the rear of my 4520 I so the same as Brian, remove the drawbar and run the chains through the frame opening. The front tiedown points I do differently, I added two steel plates with eyes to run the chains through, these are pictured below.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails front weights and tie downs 003.JPG  
    Steve,


    4520, 110tlb, 820, X749
    Enough attachments. Why don't I realize this?

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