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    First time chaining equipment - rate me

    For those following along with my ramp experience with my 18' Lamar 14k utility trailer, "18' Lamar 14k utility trailer, need ramp advice", I wanted to create a separate thread for tying down my tractor onto the trailer.

    I have a 1025R TLB that I am wanting to transport, but in the past have only transported a Cub Cadet mower a grand total of one time... To me, this feels like jumping in the deep end of the pool since I really don't have any experience doing things like this - I certainly didn't grow up around it either. I sure for all of you all with goosenecks and actual heavy equipment this is something you can do in your sleep, so I'm hoping I can learn a little from you.

    I used two 20-foot sections of 5/16" grade 70 chain and four ratcheting chain binders. Since this tractor is small, I didn't feel like I could go around the axles without crushing power steering components on compressing the tire. (I didn't want to pop the bead). As a result, I used some unorthodox locations - Are they safe for others + the tractor?

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    Through the backhoe frame

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    Used the front weight bracket to chain down the front since it seems strong

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    Any issues or pointers that you have? I did take it on a short trip at slow speeds around the neighborhood - No issues. This doesn't mean I feel confident to hit the highway for a two hour drive quite yet!
    rtgt, RetiredDoc and PJR832 like this.
    2018 1025r TLB

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    I only see one possible issue.

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    In these 2 pics your chains are pulling almost laterally. With optimum tieing down you want the front chains to pull frontward and the rear chains to pull rearward.

    Now is where we get into difficulty with tieing these small machines down - especially the front if you have a loader on.

    With the rear it looks like you could easily use an anchor point on the trailer more toward the rear without any interference with the equipment. On the front it gets interesting - how to get the chains to pull forward. That is where I use axle straps on the front axle (both sides) and get the chains to pull more forward. You needn't need to worry about squashing the tires to the point of breaking the bead - you don't need it that tight. Also a very good idea to have the tires at or near max inflation when on a trailer. Any rubber tire machine will bounce as going down the road and you want to eliminate as much of that as possible.

    What you need to picture in your mind is you are trying to pull the tractor apart - one pair of chains pulling from the rear and one pair of chains pulling from the front. Of course you wouldn't be putting that much pressure on the tractor, but try to picture that in your mind.
    ~Stan~
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    I have some bolt-on stake pockets and also D rings coming in the mail soon, I'll try to use them to get more of an X pattern instead of my current setup. I'm a little worried about cranking down on a bolted product instead of welded, but I'm also trying to keep in perspective this isn't an 8,000+ lb skid steer loader.
    DRobinson, rtgt, OxPath and 2 others like this.
    2018 1025r TLB

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    I like to single pull on the chains not loop around. Hook one end of chain to load and other end to trailer, then binder between. Not a fan of looping chain threw and back to trailer. Binder can’t pull even on both sides. Just my 2cents.
    DRobinson, Tomfive, rtgt and 8 others like this.
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    I think you are guilty of overkill with a 1 series using chains. I used straps when I had my 1025R and I still use straps with my 4066R, although I upgraded to 4 inch wide straps with chains on the ends. With the really heavy stuff, chains are a necessity. I noted that on some of your connections, you drop the chain through the stake pocket and then place the hook at the top of the stake pocket. I do this also because the chain stays in place while fastening everything in place. Otherwise, it drops down and is no longer connected to anything, causing me to walk around and rehook it. Pretty simple really, but it took me a long time to do it.

    One of the other comments was right on regarding the necessity to "pull" frontwards or rearwards with your chains. If you have to stop quickly, you want the chains/straps to "pull". If they are straight sideways, the load can move forward/rearward before it takes up the slack. I tend to maybe over favor the "pull" factor. Another thing I do not like is when someone takes one chain/strap and runs it from one side to the other side, which allows the load to shift sideways. I put chains/straps on each corner. Another thing, any attachment should have a strap/chain over it. For example, the loader bucket would need a strap across it. Check your manual. Mine says to load my 4066R facing the rear, which most people do not do.

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    I don't think what you have is all that bad. Yes, the front and rear tie downs should pull in opposing directions. Although, I think yours are at least somewhat pulling in opposing directions.

    Also, 5/16" chain has a working load limit of 4700 lb so you definitely have enough strength.

    I personally use nylon web binders. Plenty strong, don't scratch the paint and are just nicer to use.
    rtgt, OxPath, ky_shawn and 1 others like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmich View Post
    I like to single pull on the chains not loop around. Hook one end of chain to load and other end to trailer, then binder between. Not a fan of looping chain threw and back to trailer. Binder can’t pull even on both sides. Just my 2cents.
    The hook of the chain will likely slip over the weight bracket frame. I ran mine inside the frame and dropped the hook on the top of the frame. Leave the trailer end of the chain hooked as you have it. Put the binder in the middle.

    I was always taught to only hook the binder to chain, not the trailer or the load.

    I agree that chain is overkill for a 1 series, but that is not a bad thing. I use chain to secure the tractor and straps to secure the implements.

    Coaltrain makes a good point with the theory of "pulling apart the tractor". That is a good way to explain it.

    Not bad for your first attempt.
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    Deere specifies that the rear chains should be secured to the tractor and not the backhoe. From the 260B owner's manual:

    1. CAUTION: Avoid injury! Do not chain backhoe down in order to secure tractor to trailer.
      NOTE: Backhoe bucket should be lowered to trailer bed, if possible.
      Put wheel chocks against tractor wheels. Chain tractor securely to trailer bed.
    2. Do not attach hold-down chains to any part of the backhoe assembly. Lower the backhoe bucket to the trailer bed, if possible.


    On my 1025R with 260 backhoe, if I use the most rearward stake pockets of the trailer, the chains can be secured around the tractor hitch plate without interfering with the backhoe or rear tires.
    - Phil -
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxPath View Post
    Deere specifies that the rear chains should be secured to the tractor and not the backhoe. From the 260B owner's manual:

    1. CAUTION: Avoid injury! Do not chain backhoe down in order to secure tractor to trailer.
      NOTE: Backhoe bucket should be lowered to trailer bed, if possible.
      Put wheel chocks against tractor wheels. Chain tractor securely to trailer bed.
    2. Do not attach hold-down chains to any part of the backhoe assembly. Lower the backhoe bucket to the trailer bed, if possible.


    On my 1025R with 260 backhoe, if I use the most rearward stake pockets of the trailer, the chains can be secured around the tractor hitch plate without interfering with the backhoe or rear tires.
    I would be interested to know where you connect to if not the BH or other rear attachment when it is installed. There aren't too many places to connect to at the rear of the tractor.

    How do you connect to the rear draw hitch?
    rtgt, OxPath and PJR832 like this.
    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    rtgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxPath View Post
    Deere specifies that the rear chains should be secured to the tractor and not the backhoe. From the 260B owner's manual:

    1. CAUTION: Avoid injury! Do not chain backhoe down in order to secure tractor to trailer.
      NOTE: Backhoe bucket should be lowered to trailer bed, if possible.
      Put wheel chocks against tractor wheels. Chain tractor securely to trailer bed.
    2. Do not attach hold-down chains to any part of the backhoe assembly. Lower the backhoe bucket to the trailer bed, if possible.


    On my 1025R with 260 backhoe, if I use the most rearward stake pockets of the trailer, the chains can be secured around the tractor hitch plate without interfering with the backhoe or rear tires.

    The tractor must be secured as well as all implements attached.

    I would lower the bucket to the deck, but I would also run a strap over it to secure it.

    I can still get to the drawbar to put in a clevis on the 3039R with the 375A backhoe. Not easy, but still do-able.
    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

    3039R, H160 FEL, 375A Backhoe, Artillian Grapple & Forks
    Z915E
    XUV560

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