Why would a trailer manufacturer (loadrite) install these rear lamps?
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Thread: Why would a trailer manufacturer (loadrite) install these rear lamps?

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    LoneStranger's Avatar
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    Why would a trailer manufacturer (loadrite) install these rear lamps?

    I have repeatedly seen trailers boat and PWC trailers equipped with mostly Optronics rear lamps fail on the road. Just last weekend I'm following a trailered Seadoo and the left rear lamp is blinking intermittently. A friend had the same problem as were loading his SeaDoos onto his trailer and I took a harder look only to find that 1. the sockets to the lamps had rotted and 2. there are voids throughout the housing that allow water to seep in!! I must be missing something because this is a routine install on new trailers but it would appear that sealed lamps would be the better option! If I'm missing something, please fire away; if not, when you go to buy a watercraft trailer, it might be a good idea to insist on sealed incandescent or LED lamps.

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    Last edited by LoneStranger; 10-22-2018 at 11:07 AM.
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    WifeSaidOK's Avatar
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    I had the same lights on my Load Rite trailer that I use to haul around my Sea Doo. They don't last long, a couple years. They do hold up a little bit better if you unplug the harness before dipping the lights in the water (cold water/hot bulb). With that said, I replaced mine with sealed LEDs 5 or so years ago, and have had no issues with them.
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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    These are the lights most trailer use. It's also what keeps the after market in business.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1½" rear wheel spacers.
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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    The seller needs to make money, so the cheapest lights they can find will be used. My God it might cost them $5.00 to put on better lights.

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
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    My left signal went out on my utility trailer after 10 years. New bulb was no help. It was pretty rotted inside.

    I put on new LED lights and yet it would not flash. So I ripped the old harness out of the trailer, wire was brittle and nasty. Put in a new and new top of the line sealed harness. Still no turn signal.

    Put the tester on the hitch connector and yup no flash. New flasher relay in the Nissan and I’m all set trailer lights work well.

    If I had done the test n the Nissan I would not have had all of the fun rewiring trailer along with a nicely rewired trailer.
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    firemachine69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etcallhome View Post
    The seller needs to make money, so the cheapest lights they can find will be used. My God it might cost them $5.00 to put on better lights.

    Just about every trailer manufacturer around here has an LED light option.

    Some charge an exorbitant price for it, most just charge the price difference.
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    IndianaJim's Avatar
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    Common problem with boat trailers.
    Lights arent completely sealed, and people tend to like to keep their trailers under water for extended periods of time. Sometimes its necessary. It doesnt do the lights or the harness any good at all.
    It also doesnt do the wheel bearings any good either.
    Well, I guess its a problem inherent with non-sealed type lights. Boat trailers just experience issues much faster by nature.
    Personally, I change out all lights to LED as soon as possible after buying a trailer.
    I dont pay a premium for it, as I know what lights I want, and they are generally better and cheaper than having someone else do it.

    As to why, they have been using that style light forever. You can still buy them about anywhere lights are sold, so in that case, it makes sense. If you break one, its a simple replacement.
    If you break an LED, they arent all the same. Replacing the cheapie light is just that. Cheap. Replacing an LED not so much.
    And LOTS of people with trailers seem to like to run them into things fairly regularly.
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    Jim B.

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    Pretty much anything you can buy has two options: Base, and "with options." Base is bare bones, lowest cost (allows for profit), meets minimum criteria, and has been validated to have a very high chance of surviving through the warranty period.

    If you want better, you need to add options. These can be manufacturer-provided, dealer-installed, or DIY. If you want more reliable lights, buy them. That's just pretty much how it goes.
    IndianaJim likes this.

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

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