What kind of trailer will fit my new 1025R FILB?
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Thread: What kind of trailer will fit my new 1025R FILB?

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    What kind of trailer will fit my new 1025R FILB?

    Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!

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    Tractor Trailer Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by Anatoli25 View Post
    Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
    Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington
    Thank you !! I appreciate your effort and good ideas! I was thinking to buy 7'x16' but I think is to long. But also I was thinking to put the mower first and then the tractor with the loader and BH on it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anatoli25 View Post
    Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
    With FILB, I would suggest at least a 16' trailer, with ramps or tilt trailer, always load the tractor backwards, ensure to secure properly when hauling
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    I have a 7x16. Needed the extra for the rotary cutter. Mine has substantial ramps for the loading. You will need these. The fold down gates may not hold the weight when loading.

    Be very careful with straps. Get the heaviest you can. Bring some canvas or a towel with you and some duct tape. Tie the tractor down at the frame in front and the backhoe support in back. Then tie down the loader and backhoe independently. Be very careful on the routing of the straps. Assume anything within 3" is a knife edge, most are. Use the canvas or towel to protect the straps from cutting. I didn't and I cut 3 straps 3/4 of the way through by the time I was home.

    Tie wrap the excess strap together. I didn't on my UTV delivery and the loose end unraveled and got pulled under the tire, destroying the ratchet and compromising the load at 70 MPH.
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    D130 JD Lawn Tractor, Polaris Ranger 400, 18' Gator Made Lowboy Trailer,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington

    Hi Barry!

    How do you like the new better rear draft arms? Thinking of upgrading mine. Are they stronger? Quieter?

    Did they fit good?

    Phil
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    Phil d

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    16 foot tandom car hauler type would be the shortest, I'd get and have 18 foot. You won't notice the difference towing it, the extra room is nice. You have a little room to position the tractor on trailer to get the weight balanced. Mine seems to tow best when I drive forward enough to put a load on the front of the trailer, just enough to make the truck squat a little, too far back takes the weight off the tongue and the trailer fishtails and is less stable. My trailer dealer also said 16 was kind of short for a car hauler for resale most people wanted 18 foot for hauling cars.
    New JD 2032R 72MMM H130 Loader Kens hooks Frontier box blade Frontier forks ballast box old stuff LX4 brush hog JD tiller and landscape rake fertilizer spreader and fimco sprayer speco phd

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    JKR
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    Get the 7x16 or 7x18 trailer with dull wheels electric brakes and built in ramps with brace. The brace keeps the trailer from lifting when driving on.
    You may want to put your tractor on with the FEL and Rotary deck so the longer trailer will work better.
    I bought a 7x18 for my 1025R and it work well. I got it used in the classifies save a bunch of cash.
    I now have a 3033R with a FEL and Rotary deck and it just makes it.
    Remember you need a truck to tow the trailer with the weight of the tractor and equipment. Sway bars my be needed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anatoli25 View Post
    Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
    Here is mine. 7x18 dove tail rated at 10,000 but actually at 7500lbs. I have forks on the front and have loaded the bucket for use later with the post hole digger on the back. This should give you an idea of what you are looking at. I can put the backhoe on and still have plenty of room on the back. The truck is a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax 6.6 diesel and Allison transmission. The tractor is a 1026R.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20150514_171247.jpg  
    Last edited by BillieS; 06-01-2015 at 06:49 AM.
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    I haul the tractor with a 2015 2500HD Chevrolet Silverado 4X4 6.6L Duramax W/Allison transmission a 2013 18' 7500lb dove tail trailer made by Appilachian trailers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKR View Post
    Remember you need a truck to tow the trailer with the weight of the tractor and equipment. Sway bars my be needed.
    Weight is something I've seen a lot of first time tractor owners forget. The weight quoted it the dealer brochure is typically DRY weight; just the machine, no attachments, no dirt, and no fluids. Most of the fluids on your machine will weigh about 2 pounds per quart. Don't forget to add the weight of your attachments and any other accessories. I usually add an extra 10% to my total just to be safe.

    When you look at trailers, they will be rated by GVWR; Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total weight of the entire loaded trailer. In order to determine the true capacity of a trailer, you must subtract the weight of the empty trailer from the GVWR. For example, a 7000 pound GVWR trailer that itself weighs 2000 pounds can carry 5000 pounds. I usually factor another 10% margin of error. Anything above 4000 GVWR should have brakes too.

    As far as the size of the trailer, deck space you don't need can be left empty but deck space you don't have is worthless. It's not like an extra foot or two is going to suddenly make the trailer impossible to handle. Get a 7x18, you'll be able to use it for a wider range of other things.

    Towing capacity is a funny number and up until this model year the way manufacturers determined it was different for each car company. Also, just because the brochure says it can tow up to 4000 pounds does not mean you should try it! You need a full-sized truck or SUV that is equipt with a towing package; typically an upgraded oil and transmission cooler in addition to the hitch. Check the rating on your hitch and ball too. It would be a shame to wreck your new truck, trailer, and tractor because you wanted to save $15 and got the cheap 4000 pound rated ball from Walmart.

    When you pick out straps, they also have ratings on them. You'll typically see working strength (the true capacity of the strap) and breaking strength (a number you do not want to exceed). No harm ever came from over strapping with straps that were too heavy duty. Watch for chafe points and tie the strap ends up and away from the wheels of the trailer. The dealer should help you load your tractor and give you tips on strapping it down. A lot of newer machines have specific tiedown points.

    Good luck!
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