Flood lights on Gooseneck
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
Like Tree7Likes

Thread: Flood lights on Gooseneck

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Last Online
    02-22-2019 @ 10:55 AM
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    134
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 17 Times in 16 Posts

    Flood lights on Gooseneck

    Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
    2016 3039R , 2010 X500 /w 54" deck
    H165 FEL /w Heavy Duty Bucket, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks, Pallet Forks, Bucket mount shovel.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:45 PM
    Location
    Berlin, MA
    Posts
    4,664
    Thanks
    95
    Thanked 879 Times in 673 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Bwalton84 View Post
    Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
    You either need an additional plug or you have to re-wire the factory wiring harness for your 7-pin plug. IN THEORY, you could rewire the 7 pin plug and use your switch to control the hot leg. Not sure what your switch is rated for though. I *think* that hot lead is supposed to be 30 amp.


    Personally, I'd throw a battery on the trailer and call it done. If you rely on using your switch, those lights will only work when you're hooked up to the truck. Plus, you muck up the truck wiring connector for use with anything else.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

  4. Top | #3
    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:53 PM
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Posts
    16,407
    Thanks
    5,043
    Thanked 4,079 Times in 2,545 Posts
    The trailer should already have a battery for the brakes, it may need upgrading and adding a solar charger is easy-it should also charge when the truck is running.

    As for the switch in the truck, this would be the easiest way rather than rewiring anything: Amazon.com: 1 Channel Wireless Controller (On/Off) 12V Electronics 15 Amp High Power: Electronics and you can still add a hardwired switch on the trailer.
    OxPath likes this.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    johnH123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 11:28 AM
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    4,386
    Thanks
    463
    Thanked 328 Times in 276 Posts
    if it has running lights, just hook them up to the wires for those. maybe add a bigger fuse in your truck if you need to.
    - 2002 John Deere 4510 TLB PR,
    -Woods BB60X 60" rotary cutter
    -Countyline box blade,
    -Allis Chalmers sickle mower,
    -RED windrow rake,
    -titan 48" 3000 pound forks/bale spear
    - Farm Star rear bale spear

    Yamaha Rhino 700, Yamaha Rhino 660,
    Murray 624 mower/38" deck

  7. Top | #5
    56FordGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:21 PM
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    10,041
    Thanks
    482
    Thanked 1,660 Times in 1,090 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Bwalton84 View Post
    Hey everybody, it has been a while since I posted on here but I have a question for the experts. I am wanting to wire up 3 or 4 LED flood lights to my gooseneck flatbed. Mainly for loading and tying down equipment and materials after dark. No problem right? I could do this no problem if the trailer had a battery or if I wanted the switch on the trailer. I could just tie into the hot wire going to the break away because I don't want to add a battery. Here is where I want to make it difficult. I want to be able to turn the lights on using one of the upfitter switches in my 2011 F-250. I can't figure out in my small head how to make this work without having a seperate plug from the truck to the trailer for the lights. Is this possible????
    Unfortunately, you seem to have it right. The lights have to have power, either from the truck electrical system or the trailer system. Do you have the 7 pin "RV" plug or a 6 pin plug? If you have a 7 pin, one wire in that connector is wired for reverse lights on the trailer. If your trailer doesn't have reverse lights, you could run a wire from your upfitter switch to that pole in the connector and then wire your work lights to that pole in the trailer connector. If you have a 6 pin, there are no 'extra' wires but you could convert it to a 7 pin. Otherwise, you'll need a battery and switch on the trailer or a separate plug.


    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    The trailer should already have a battery for the brakes, it may need upgrading and adding a solar charger is easy-it should also charge when the truck is running.
    Just a note, I have run into a surprising numbers of trailers that only supply charging power to the trailer's emergency brake battery when the vehicle's brake pedal is pressed, and does not charge it at all times. Check and make sure your trailer charges that battery whenever it's connected and not just when you hit the brakes if you want to use it for power. I don't recall the AH rating for most of those batteries, but it isn't much. Be sure you use some very low draw lights.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    if it has running lights, just hook them up to the wires for those. maybe add a bigger fuse in your truck if you need to.
    That would require a switch on the trailer, or the worklights would be on whenever the running lights were on.

    You never want to plug a bigger fuse into a circuit. Fuses are there to protect the wiring. If you increase the load on a circuit to the point it blows the fuse, putting in a larger fuse will allow more current to try and flow than the wiring can handle. That can damage the wiring, switches, and potentially cause a fire.
    dieselshadow, OxPath and johnH123 like this.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

    JD 6410
    Some other stuff

    YouTube- Life in Wyoming

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:45 PM
    Location
    Berlin, MA
    Posts
    4,664
    Thanks
    95
    Thanked 879 Times in 673 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by 56FordGuy View Post
    Unfortunately, you seem to have it right. The lights have to have power, either from the truck electrical system or the trailer system. Do you have the 7 pin "RV" plug or a 6 pin plug? If you have a 7 pin, one wire in that connector is wired for reverse lights on the trailer. If your trailer doesn't have reverse lights, you could run a wire from your upfitter switch to that pole in the connector and then wire your work lights to that pole in the trailer connector. If you have a 6 pin, there are no 'extra' wires but you could convert it to a 7 pin. Otherwise, you'll need a battery and switch on the trailer or a separate plug.
    Just as an add-on here; There are two possible pins in a 7-pin connector that could be used.

    Pin1 = Ground
    Pin2 = Electric Brakes
    Pin3 = Taillights/Running Lights
    Pin4 = 12v
    Pin5 = Left Turn
    Pin6 = Right Turn
    Pin7 = Backup/Aux

    Pin 4 should always be wired for 12V/15A. Pin 7 (the center pin) depends on your vehicle. Some use it for the backup lights but most use it for a 30A Aux "always on" circuit. With my truck & camper, it provides a 30A charging circuit for the deep cycle batteries.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

  9. Top | #7
    56FordGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:21 PM
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    10,041
    Thanks
    482
    Thanked 1,660 Times in 1,090 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    Just as an add-on here; There are two possible pins in a 7-pin connector that could be used.

    Pin1 = Ground
    Pin2 = Electric Brakes
    Pin3 = Taillights/Running Lights
    Pin4 = 12v
    Pin5 = Left Turn
    Pin6 = Right Turn
    Pin7 = Backup/Aux

    Pin 4 should always be wired for 12V/15A. Pin 7 (the center pin) depends on your vehicle. Some use it for the backup lights but most use it for a 30A Aux "always on" circuit. With my truck & camper, it provides a 30A charging circuit for the deep cycle batteries.
    I don't know exactly how the OP's truck is wired, but in either case the center pin should be adaptable to be switched. It would be easier if it was just for reverse lights than if it's a 30A circuit, but it's doable either way. For the 30A, he would need to put his upfitter switch on the control side of the factory installed relay that supplies power to the plug. For reverse lights, it may not have a relay at all.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

    JD 6410
    Some other stuff

    YouTube- Life in Wyoming

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Last Online
    02-22-2019 @ 10:55 AM
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Posts
    134
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 17 Times in 16 Posts
    Thanks for all the info guys. I just need all of you to convene at my house. I'll supply the beer and we will get this thing wired up.
    I have a 7 pin plug. Guess I need to start testing the plug and see what is wired for what. I'll let you know what I find. My trailer does not have back up lights so that is a viable option. I do hate to modify the truck wiring because your right it messes it up for future trailers. The breakaway kit does have a battery but it is self contained and a very small battery. It may just be easier to put a battery on it and use one of those wireless switches in the truck along with a switch on the trailer. I will need to make sure I'm getting charging power out of the plug. It should be charging the breakaway battery, but I haven't physically checked. The only reason I would like to have a switch in the truck is for when I am backing it up at night. It would be nice to be able to flip on those flood lights and actually see something besides the running lights. Thanks for all your good thoughts on this!
    2016 3039R , 2010 X500 /w 54" deck
    H165 FEL /w Heavy Duty Bucket, Home Made Ballast box, 40 gallon 3pt sprayer, Frontier SS1023B broadcast spreader, Home made Ratchet Rake, RB2060 Rear Blade. Ken's Bolt on hooks, Pallet Forks, Bucket mount shovel.

  11. Top | #9
    NJDevil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    12-27-2017 @ 09:37 AM
    Location
    Florence County SC
    Posts
    77
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
    Not much help from me........... but I would just load the trailer in the daytime! PROBLEM SOLVED!


    Good luck with your project
    Kennyd likes this.
    JD 5013
    JD 5104 loader
    5ft King Kutter bushhog
    Piranha Tooth Blade
    Husqvarna MZ61
    Ken's Bolt on Hooks

    JD 425z

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:45 PM
    Location
    Berlin, MA
    Posts
    4,664
    Thanks
    95
    Thanked 879 Times in 673 Posts
    If you are willing to do a little more work - you could leave your existing trailer plug exactly as it is.

    Build a pigtail that would plug in between your existing plug and the trailer. Then you could run a wire off of that up to the switch on your dash and you'd be all set.

    That way your truck wiring stays OEM and you can still work your lights like you want to.
    56FordGuy likes this.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •