Can you negotiate on new trailers?
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Thread: Can you negotiate on new trailers?

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    sbussell's Avatar
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    Can you negotiate on new trailers?

    Just sold my 5x8 utility and need to get something big enough for the 2320. Budget is tight. Looked at Carry-on 7x14 tandem at
    local place, but he wanted $2500. Seems high for a trailer that size and Carry-on is sort of entry level. Looking at used too, but most of the local tandems are WELL used and they still want 17-1800. Can prices on new ones be negotiated? Thanks for the input.
    Steve

    John Deere 1025r FiLB, with 53" bucket, 54" mower (sold), (sold) Imatch Quick Hitch, (sold)Frontier RB2060L and Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks (x2), HLA 1500 Snowpush.

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    Brian's Avatar
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    Yes, but I have not had much luck getting much more than 10% off unless I really work at it.



    Brian

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    Buying A New Trailer

    I just bought a new 5X10, tilt, with new spare tire, PJ Trailer made in Texas for $1,249. It has a 3,500 pound axle. The dealer said, this was the last of the ones that he could sell, without the new $100 fuel surcharge to the northwest. Their shipping charges have gone up with the higher cost of diesel. My 1026R with the FEL fits on it fine. I too looked locally and found used trailers were either over priced or were junk. There really isn't a lot of money to be made on these low cost trailers, so there isn't much discount they can give you. Some will give you a percentage reduction for cash Vs. the on credit purchase. There is also a "document fee" cost you can get a reduction or elimination on. The dealership let me have the spare for their cost. I also pre-shopped with another trailer business and made sure I got the cheapest price ($50 less) for the same trailer. This one too has a three year warranty. Trailers spend most of their time sitting, so the fancy chrome and such is a waste of money IMO. Good luck with your quest

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    has15's Avatar
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    Good post Barry
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    Berry hit the nail on the head. There's always 'wiggle room', but very little for trailers. Last trailer I got I struggled to get 7%. I am going to go look at and try and deal on a new trailer to haul the 110 Saturday, so we shall see. I'd be looking at a much bigger trailer, though - 20', 14k lb so my price may still be better because of the larger price and more room to negotiate.
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    sbussell's Avatar
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    Thanks Barry, appreciate the info. No problems towing your 1026 ona single axle trailer? I have been thinking about going with a single axle and adding brakes as most of it's life will be spent as a utility trailer with the occasional, once per year, tractor transport.
    Steve

    John Deere 1025r FiLB, with 53" bucket, 54" mower (sold), (sold) Imatch Quick Hitch, (sold)Frontier RB2060L and Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks (x2), HLA 1500 Snowpush.

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    Single Axle Towing

    Quote Originally Posted by sbussell View Post
    Thanks Barry, appreciate the info. No problems towing your 1026 ona single axle trailer? I have been thinking about going with a single axle and adding brakes as most of it's life will be spent as a utility trailer with the occasional, once per year, tractor transport.
    No, I don't have any problem towing single axle. I'm well below the 3,500 axle rating of the trailer. The operating wet weight of the 1026 is 1,444 pounds. I use it to get my tractor/Gator/mower to/from the dealer for service. He's only 10 miles from my property. My JD dealer charges $50 for pickup and return delivery. That's also by their schedule. In the past, I've had my equipment tied up for a week or more using the JD dealer. Having my own trailer gives me a much faster turn around time. I use my 1999 GMC Sierra, 5.3 V-8, 1/2 ton truck with a 2" ball and 2" receiver. If one was regularly hauling heavier loads, longer distances at highway speeds, a twin axle, with brakes would be a must. It's also important to check your state's motor vehicle laws concerning trailers. They very widely concerning speed limits, brakes, loads, lights, etc. around the country. Remember too about anchor points and ratchet type tie downs. I use commerical grade tie downs, so the load isn't shifting or moving once loaded for travel. Safety can't be found on the cheap. Good luck

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    No, I don't have any problem towing single axle. I'm well below the 3,500 axle rating of the trailer. The operating wet weight of the 1026 is 1,444 pounds. I use it to get my tractor/Gator/mower to/from the dealer for service. He's only 10 miles from my property. My JD dealer charges $50 for pickup and return delivery. That's also by their schedule. In the past, I've had my equipment tied up for a week or more using the JD dealer. Having my own trailer gives me a much faster turn around time. I use my 1999 GMC Sierra, 5.3 V-8, 1/2 ton truck with a 2" ball and 2" receiver. If one was regularly hauling heavier loads, longer distances at highway speeds, a twin axle, with brakes would be a must. It's also important to check your state's motor vehicle laws concerning trailers. They very widely concerning speed limits, brakes, loads, lights, etc. around the country. Remember too about anchor points and ratchet type tie downs. I use commerical grade tie downs, so the load isn't shifting or moving once loaded for travel. Safety can't be found on the cheap. Good luck
    Just a friendly reminder, the weight you quoted is for a bare tractor. No mower, loader, loader brackets, etc.,etc. The extra goodies add up quick.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    Just a friendly reminder, the weight you quoted is for a bare tractor. No mower, loader, loader brackets, etc.,etc. The extra goodies add up quick.
    After reading Barry's response to the question on his trailer being able to hold his tractor, I see that he intends now to only haul the bare tractor to get it serviced. I was originally puzzled also by him getting this small of trailer to tow his 1026R as I intend to use my eventual purchase to haul ALL my goodies to a lot that we own 20 miles away - which is why I am looking for a tandem axle trailer that is also larger. If he got the PJ trailer that I think he did, it only weighs about 1,000 pounds and would actually be able to haul his tractor with some extra goodies on it.

    You are correct in pointing out to the readers that one size doesn't always fit all.

    My experience thusfar on the new price negotiation is that the local dealers are willing to knock off $100-200 bucks at most - it's like they know that used trailers are still commanding top dollar so they are not going to budge much. Their pricing is very comparable to what I have been getting from the out-of-state dealers, and then I need to figure in my gas (and food) to go pick up those trailers.
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    sbussell's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, appreciate all the comments. So far, I've only had one issue with my 2320 and that was a leaking lift cylinder o-ring which I fixed myself. My dealer would have fixed it, but they wanted $180, yes $180, round trip transport and they are 36ish miles from me.
    Still shopping, would like to go with 14' tandem, but I can't touch those for less than $2400. Single axles are $800-$1000 less.
    Steve

    John Deere 1025r FiLB, with 53" bucket, 54" mower (sold), (sold) Imatch Quick Hitch, (sold)Frontier RB2060L and Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks (x2), HLA 1500 Snowpush.

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