Trailer suggestions for a 3032e
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    Trailer suggestions for a 3032e

    We are going to purchase a 3032e in the near future. This tractor will have a front end loader and bush hog to take care of the the roads on our tree farm. What I need to get now is the trailer to tow the 3032e. I am a total newbie and would appreciate any ideas or input. If you have any thoughts about which trailer brand is a good value, I would be especially happy to hear about it.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Get the biggest one you can afford because you will find your self using it for other projects. When I see dealers selling 3032e as a combination with a trailer and cutter I see them on either a 16 or 18 foot. If you get the 16 foot your cutter will hang off a little. The 18 foot seems to hold everything. I would get one that is at least that long and rated for 7k (two 3500 lb axles) and try and find one with brakes on both axles. A lot of trailer makers like to only put brakes on one axle.

    I would also get a open flat trailer vs one with pipe on the outside. To me the open beds ones are more versatile.

    Make sure your trailer can be towed by whatever vehicle you are using. What I am describing above requires at least a 1/2 ton truck/full size SUV although the new mid-size pickups might be rated for them. Do your research.

    Good luck and enjoy the trailer and tractor.
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    What do you have to tow with?
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    18 is better

    Quote Originally Posted by 69project View Post
    Get the biggest one you can afford because you will find your self using it for other projects. When I see dealers selling 3032e as a combination with a trailer and cutter I see them on either a 16 or 18 foot. If you get the 16 foot your cutter will hang off a little. The 18 foot seems to hold everything. I would get one that is at least that long and rated for 7k (two 3500 lb axles) and try and find one with brakes on both axles. A lot of trailer makers like to only put brakes on one axle.

    I would also get a open flat trailer vs one with pipe on the outside. To me the open beds ones are more versatile.

    Make sure your trailer can be towed by whatever vehicle you are using. What I am describing above requires at least a 1/2 ton truck/full size SUV although the new mid-size pickups might be rated for them. Do your research.

    Good luck and enjoy the trailer and tractor.
    I put my JD790 with bush hog on a 16' trailer but it doesn't give much wiggle room to get the fore and aft balance right. If at all possible, go to an 18. A 20 would be better yet. The above advice on brakes on both axles is on the mark. I would add that if your vehicle is rated for 10,000 lb or up towing, go ahead and get a 10,000 trailer. No, you don't need it right now but it's comforting to have extra capacity. If your tow vehicle isn't rated close to that, stay with the 7,000 lb trailer as they will be a bit lighter on the empty weight and therefore easier on the tow vehicle. Other things to look for- LED lights will use less power and cause less trouble than incandescent. Look at multiple and easy to use tie down locations. You will either need ramps or a tilt bed trailer. If it's ramps, make sure you can handle the ramps whether they are fold down or pull out and that the ramps are large and wide enough for the tractor and can be located to match the tractor wheels. If you aren't used to towing a trailer, see if someone can help you load the tractor the first time and make sure you get the weight distribution right. I painted the deck of my trailer with rectangles to mark the tire locations. If I put the tires on the rectangles I know I have the proper weight on the tongue.

    Lots of things to think about but none of them are particularly difficult. Details do make a difference though. For longevity, you might look at the finish on the trailer. Was it primed and painted, just painted or primed and powder coated?

    Treefarmer
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    Will this be your only trailer?
    If it is, think of what else the trailer would be used for, THEN look for a trailer.

    I would not have any concerns about hauling that equipment in my tandem dump trailer.
    I think the primary purpose intended for my trailer was to be able to haul a big skid steer.
    So, it is compact, but, has a 10K load capacity.

    I use the dump trailer for hauling anything,,, and everything.

    Push-button unload has been the best thing for my applications.

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    I would not even consider going smaller than the 18' car hauler we currently use with our 3038e. You need space to get the balance right as well as accommodate attachments...

    Nick
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    Thank you for the advice so far. My tow vehicle is a 2015 Ram 3500 Cummins single rear wheel. It is rated to tow 16,900 according to the people at Ram.

    The 18' makes sense. What kind of ramps? Dove? What about brands? I see a wide range of prices here.

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    CADPlans, do you have a picture showing your dump trailer and how you get equipment into the trailer?

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    Ramps

    Quote Originally Posted by white cloud View Post
    Thank you for the advice so far. My tow vehicle is a 2015 Ram 3500 Cummins single rear wheel. It is rated to tow 16,900 according to the people at Ram.

    The 18' makes sense. What kind of ramps? Dove? What about brands? I see a wide range of prices here.
    You've got lots of spare towing capacity, which is good. I have fold down ramps which have worked ok. At times it would be helpful if they were removable but they aren't. On the flip side, I'll never leave them at a job site. My dump trailer has slide out ramps that store underneath. Very handy but I've never used the dump trailer to haul equipment nor do I intend to since I have the flat bed that's longer and lower.

    The ramp configuration might depend on your health and physical condition. Can you move ramps that might weigh a couple of hundred pounds and set them in place? If not, fold downs might be the way to go and even possibly adding lift assist. In any case, before purchasing I would try folding/attaching and stowing the ramps to make sure you are comfortable with the process.

    Brands- Most of the larger brands make really good trailers but each has some differences. Much of the price difference is in the wheels and tires, front jack, ramps, rechargeable battery with charging circuit and similar add ons. Heck, it's not unusual to see trailers priced without the battery which is annoying. I would look at the wheel tire combo to see if replacements are readily available. Avoid clamp on wheels like house trailers use as those are usually an odd size and not readily available when you have two flats on a weekend. (Don't ask but that's my experience anyway.) If you have the time, pick a higher cost trailer, a mid cost trailer and a lower cost trailer and compare them in person to look at welds, tires, wheels, overall construction, finish and empty weight to GVW. You don't always get what you pay for but usually pay for what you get and the higher end trailers are usually better constructed. The difference may or may not be worth it to you but the comparison will let you see what you like and what you consider a frill.

    Treefarmer
    Last edited by Treefarmer; 09-06-2016 at 09:00 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by white cloud View Post
    It is rated to tow 16,900 according to the people at Ram.
    I have a hard time believing that figure. They advertise that it has a 30k pound towing limit. maybe thats only with dual rears?
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