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John Deere 2630 Split, troubles, etc

49K views 132 replies 13 participants last post by  Mike1208 
#1 ·
Thought I would make a post about my adventure with this 2630 tractor. I got it for a really good price knowing it needed work. I guess I didn't realize the extent of the work though. I am no mechanic at all, I did work for CAT for a while. I grew up driving similar tractors, probably since around 5. This is the first one I actually purchased myself.

Tractor didn't even start when delivered, they rolled it off a rollback I think because the gravel was pushed away. Eventually, I discovered a variety of electrical issues, basically rewiring the entire machine.

Shifter had serious slop. Discovered the parking assist kit add-on, this tractor had the kit added but still had the old snap rings. Whatever, ordered the right kit of snap rings, problem solved. Could have been worse, seeing how the aluminum shifter cover is busted in a few places.

Finally got it running, changed all fluids. Hydraulic inlet screen wasn't really as bad as I expected, but wasn't great either. It was probably 40-50% clogged.

Eventually I got around to using it only to discover how destroyed the clutch was. Tractor wouldn't pull up a hill in low gear, engine running fine. So I pulled it in the garage and split it myself.
 

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#86 ·
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#87 · (Edited)
I think so. My reasoning is this: it took me many tries to get it lined up right. One of these attempts, I thought I had it on. Proceeded to start to try to use the lift and had other problems, one of which the linkage was bound up. So I made double sure this time, and before bolting it on made sure the linkage functioned.

I've attempted the adjustments, but probably didn't get it right. I'll definitely try again.

Edit: I also thought in "depth" control, there was so adjustment on the tractor to move the impliment. Whatever is happening, the whole lever itself is being moved on it's own back up.

Edit again: I know it's not much, but got the support and sway block in for the right hand side. Had to extract the broken bolts, but one more little thing fixed.
 
#90 ·
In "D", depth control, the implement will stay at the depth it is set for. In "L", load control, increased draft on the implement will flex the load control shaft and telescope movement to raise the implement somewhat to allow the tractor to continue forward movement.

As I said before I am going back 35 or 40 years in my memory, but in this area, farmers used LD, load and depth control, for tillage equipment, mainly moldboard plows. The operator can feel it work setting on the seat, especially on the smaller tractors. For a rotary cutter, I would suggest using "D" to maintain the height of cut.
 
#91 ·
If I recall, I think TX Jim also said rotary cutters (and most other implements) will need to be on the "D" setting. That is definitely what mine is on.

When I get time, I will try the adjustment procedure again. When I had the rockshaft off and sump drained, I even stuck my hand down on the load arm to try to feel that adjustment screw (negative stop screw) touching the load control shaft. I thought I had that right after that, but maybe not. Perhaps the throttle valve has something to do with the problem?

In all seriousness, I imagine the load shaft is totally jacked. This machine had something catastrophic happen that resulted in various (terrible) welds on parts that normally wouldn't be welded and things like the right-hand sway block and mount being sheared off. I doubt I will ever have a need for any load control, so worst case I deal with a few drips from the shaft bushing area.
 
#93 ·
I also need to tackle both rear tires, fluid is leaking from the valve stem. I believe its only leaking from the stem itself, likely even just the valve core. I may take some pictures tonight. If I understand correctly, even with this tube-type tire I should be able to rotate it to the top and simply pull the old out, screw a new stem assembly in right?
 
#99 ·
Is the hole in the top picture rusted out as large as it looks to be? If it is, you might want to consider a repair or replacement. I'm sure I remember someone on here post about welding a plate with a hole to salvage a rusted out rim. Maybe it's not as bad as it looks.
 
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#101 ·
CaCl is not considered hazardous. If it is dumped/spilled on the ground it will burnout any thing there, but it will eventually wash away.
 
#104 ·
yrs ago when i bought a set of used to me rear tires for the 50--i thought i could just upend them loaded tires into my pickup. boy i could almost get them up onto the tailgate-but that was it-so i was impatient back then-so i drained them both onto the ground that evening. next morning i could lift them then. but where i drained them at-was soft for a whole yr then-even sank a bit-where i had to add some fill.

drobinson--the tire shop welded patches on my old rims for me-didn't look anyworse than Mike's in his pics-...till they took the tires off the rims-then it showed up big time. i think they charged me back then $20 a rim. they lasted a long time--till i bought brand tires-and wanted to replace the rims then too.

maybe mine had leaked longer than his has at this point:dunno:i hope so as his rear tires look real good.
 
#103 ·
For another small win, you can get the front "deere" emblem off eBay for $29 shipped
 
#106 ·
I think I've had that in my cart since I got this machine. Since it's really purely cosmetic I have a hard time pulling the trigger to order it seeing how this tractor needs so much else. The side shield provides a bit of protection as well as a coarse filter, I noticed this when I saw how many seeds were in the pump/air filter area after mowing once.

It will be here, someday!
 
#107 ·
Tires are good! Co-op came out this afternoon and put a tube in the bad one. The old tube must have torn long ago, I bet maybe half the fluid was between the rim and tube. He cut the tube, recovered what he could, new tube in, old fluid + some new back in. All in all it came to $240ish. He also cleaned the rim, it was good to go (repairable).

I know it's a no brainier, but it looks really different to me now. It actually sits where it should, now that the tires have pressure lol.
 
#108 ·
Couple more pictures...

Next immediate challenge is the loader control valve. I think there's a problem, it still slowly raises the loader when running. I see this as a potential problem causing the main pump to produce flow when there shouldn't be any demand. I've ordered the actual seal kit, it's a Cross 2 spool 4 way direction control valve with spring detent.

Anyone know what the "poppits" are and their function? Could the seals on the closed center plug have failed? Honestly I'm assuming it has the closed center plug. I figured it wouldn't function nearly as well if it didn't have it. When doing work, it actually works quite well and I really love how fast it responds. But something is leaking, perhaps the valve body is worn. I inspected the valve itself when I changed the o-rings, I didn't see any damage.
 
#111 ·
Learned my lesson on the hydraulic quick coupler fittings... Ordered some on eBay, they were much cheaper than the Pioneer brand. The 2 serving the loader both were leaking. Ran the tractor for a while after replacement then raised the loader all the way up - it wouldn't come back down. I began the troubleshooting, not sure really what happened but it was definitely those cheap couplers. I put the old once back on after having to beat the ball (with eye protection on) because that was the only way to relieve pressure. Poor machining I guess, they were rated the same 4000 psi. Loader works like normal with the old couplers on.

Lesson learned, don't skimp on fittings.
 
#120 ·
Should be fine for testing purposes.

I still get a chatter, I am having a hard time pin pointing it. I believe it's a hydraulic chatter, possibly one or more inlet valves damaged.

Probably before anything happens with the pump, the loader valve needs to be addressed. I also need to see how it runs with the loader disconnected. My course of action is to first rebuild the 2 spool valve (since I have the kit and seals). If still no change and loader hunts up with no control action, I'll replace it. Then, this winter, if still having issues I'll investigate the pump.
 
#121 · (Edited)
Well, last Friday was just full of mistakes on my part. I ordered a Cross seal kit like I said, hoping it might correct some issues. But I'm an idiot - I cross threaded the 90 degree fitting out of the valve, when I attached the hose back. In my attempt to fix it I messed the other up, long story. The seal kit doesn't include the seals for the closed center plug either.

So now, waiting on the new elbow fittings, hose repair, and replacement. I was pretty much at a loss looking up what I need, there are so many different thread types and sizes... You would think a mechanical engineer wouldn't have a problem with this, but I'm throwing my hands up now.

What I believe I needed is two 90 degree elbow, #16 SAE ORB on one "leg" and the other, 1/2 inch JIC. I think actually there is a chance the old hose may have been a 45 degree flare rather than the typical 37 degree flare - both have the same thread. This could have been a problem.
 
#122 ·
I hope you mean you ruined the threads on the fitting and hose connection and not the fitting to valve (which I am guessing you did not need to take out) :dunno:

Did you have hose to fitting leaks? I was thinking you had spool leaks, hence the seal kit.

Most hydraulic shops will not put a new end on a used hose unless it's the non crimped reusable style. I would buy new hoses with female swivel JIC fittings.
 
#124 ·
You're lucky a shop will repair the hose.

What is the problem with the valve?

Closed center plug did not look like O-rings were damaged.

My loader valve leaked for years. I thought it was the quick couplers on the valve. I replaced all four, (not cheap), still leaked. The valve "lives" in a box out of sight. I finally figured it was the spool O-rings :banghead:, a lot cheaper than female quick couplers, which I ultimately took off when I installed a multi-coupler. That's when I figured it was the spools, since the couplers were no longer in the picture. :flag_of_truce:
 
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#125 ·
I believe TX Jim mentioned earlier he thought the valve needs replacing. The loader itself "hunts" upward very slightly and slowly when the machine is running and without touching any controls. I've replaced the o-rings but had not done anything on that closed center plug, so I thought there was a chance those seals we're damaged. Wishful thinking I guess...

New valve looks to be in the neighborhood of $300. I'd like to just live with it, by my concern is the nature of closed center hydraulics - I'm worried this leak is causing the pump to run more than it should.
 
#126 ·
Simple test to determine if FEL valve will cause problems for closed center system is remove FEL valve return line from tractor & aim open return line hose in bucket or hyd filler hole. With control levers in neutral start engine & no oil should exit return hose. Best test results is with engine/hyd oil at operating temp. If oil exits return hose either spool to valve body clearance is worn &/or CC plug inner seal is leaking. Yes if boom raises with control valve in neutral FEL valve needs to be replaced for good FEL control.
 
#128 ·
This is good stuff, although I'm pretty sure I already know the answer.

Last ditch attempt, I rotated the lift spool 180 degrees. It's worth a shot I suppose...

Still just waiting on the fittings and hoses now. My local machine shop is really good, very nice guy. It's always a challenge for a younger guy such as myself to do things like this. I'm fairly certain the assumption is I'm just some needy millennial who is here to demand something. It takes a bit but have to break down those barriers sometimes.

Anywho, I might look into a 90 for the outlet on the selector valve. How are these typically plumbed going from the valve to the SCV? I know this sharp bend isn't good practice.
 
#127 ·
I would make sure the spool is centering = staying neutral. If the loader is still raising, the spool is internally leaking and as TxJim said replace the valve.
 
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#129 ·
Have another hose made, to replace the straight fitting with a 90°. This way, the hose will route straight up toward the SCV.
Note: not a tight 90°, a sweeping 90°.




This is what was originally installed on the tractor(item #3).

 

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#130 ·
I was going to say my 2030 has bent steel hard line. You beat me to it :good2:I am thinking you also have a hose to your steering instead of a hard line.
 
#133 ·
Well, have yet to be successful. All I've accomplished was moving the tee fitting to the SCV to help reduce the stress on the hose out of the main valve.

I had 2 custom hoses made, one with a long sweep elbow. But the elbow doesn't fit for various reasons, I probably would have been better to use a short radius sweep not long. Had a second hose made to replace the return out of the SCV, but I found it's the only hose on the machine that is 3/4 inch JIC (I had all 1/2 inch JIC hoses made). Pain in the butt, not a big deal, but those 2 custom hoses were expensive and I'm not even using them...

At any rate, I'm pleased with this machine. I see lots of hate on this series - some of it justified I'm sure. But this is a darn good tractor once the major issues have been addressed. There's no way in hell I could afford a 70 PTO HP tractor right now so I'm still ahead despite the work involved to get it here. I paid about $6k for it, $2k or so in parts so far. Plus, I haven't even touched the engine (minus fuel system) - it feels like it could pull a house over there's so much power. Pretty darn good for a 40 year old Tractor that's been outside it's life and abused.
 

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