1020 Rockshaft Control Lever Rusted
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Thread: 1020 Rockshaft Control Lever Rusted

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    1020 Rockshaft Control Lever Rusted

    I have a '67 1020 Deere. The handle for the 3point just snapped off the end of the shaft. I’ve put penetrating oil, rust penetrant WD 40 on it and vice grips. This thing is stuck good. I took the bolts out of the AT20198.A Quadrant Assembly and when I moved it the arms function fine. Does anyone know of a way to unfreeze this rusted shaft without taking the rockshaft housing off?Click image for larger version. 

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Applying heat and a good penetrating oil in multiple heat/cool cycles is about the only thing you can do externally. If that is unsuccessful then the next approach would have to be with the rockshaft cover removed.
    FormulaB likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Applying heat and a good penetrating oil in multiple heat/cool cycles is about the only thing you can do externally. If that is unsuccessful then the next approach would have to be with the rockshaft cover removed.
    I thought about heat. But what about the seals?

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melungeon1 View Post
    I thought about heat. But what about the seals?
    Looking at that shaft the seals are probably the least of your worries. What part are you wanting to replace? I assume it is the shaft with the tip broke off. Doesn't that shaft extend into the rockshaft cover? Meaning, you'll need to take the cover off anyway to replace the shaft.

    I'm having trouble finding a 1020 parts illustration that matches your photo.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Applying heat and a good penetrating oil in multiple heat/cool cycles is about the only thing you can do externally. If that is unsuccessful then the next approach would have to be with the rockshaft cover removed.
    Ditto plus I failed to locate any seal on rockshaft control shaft. Only oil in that area would have to be splashed by ring gear unless rockshaft control valve seals were leaking which means RS housing would require R&R to replace those control valve seals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Looking at that shaft the seals are probably the least of your worries. What part are you wanting to replace? I assume it is the shaft with the tip broke off. Doesn't that shaft extend into the rockshaft cover? Meaning, you'll need to take the cover off anyway to replace the shaft.

    I'm having trouble finding a 1020 parts illustration that matches your photo.
    Thank to my local Deere dealer....here is the illustration and new part number. AL33044AL33044 1020 Deere.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by Melungeon1 View Post
    Thank to my local Deere dealer....here is the illustration and new part number. AL33044AL33044 1020 Deere.pdf
    Just so you know. I had to take the top off to get to a roll pin inside. The shaft was rusted all the way thru to the inside. I was able to find a used one and get it installed. Click image for larger version. 

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    Glad you got it fixed! Looking at your photo, it appears your oil is milky which indicates contamination with water. I recommend you change the fluid. Water contamination wreaks havoc with the brakes. Will probably require changing multiple times to get it cleared out.
    DRobinson and Zebrafive like this.

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    If you change oil then this would be an excellent time to check/clean sump screen in bottom of trans case.
    DRobinson and Zebrafive like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jd110 View Post
    Glad you got it fixed! Looking at your photo, it appears your oil is milky which indicates contamination with water. I recommend you change the fluid. Water contamination wreaks havoc with the brakes. Will probably require changing multiple times to get it cleared out.
    I have already priced it...they are proud of HY-Gard

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