316 with Onan 18HP shutting off after turning on PTO
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Thread: 316 with Onan 18HP shutting off after turning on PTO

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    316 with Onan 18HP shutting off after turning on PTO

    I have a 316 with an 18HP Onan and recently started to blow a 30 amp fuse that is hacked into a pink wire that comes from the harness and connects to the key switch. This would happen after after running for an hour or so. I would replace the fuse and it would run for another hour so then blow. I replaced the PTO switch and now it blows after a minute when the pTO is engaged. Before this happened I adjusted the air gap to .018 in. after learning that would fix my PTO that was getting hot and preventing me from turning it on after turning off while mowing. I got the gaps set and it worked great I could turn the PTO off and back on after mowing, but that's when the fuse started blowing. I'm not even sure if that red wire with the fuse on it that is spliced into the pink wire is even supposed to be there. I'm thinking about changing the key switch out next. The battery is over 6 years old too and I'm wondering if that could be causing the issue. If there is a short would two wires need to be exposed and touching each other or just touching the frame? I followed the pink wire to the key switch. Does anyone know why there are so many wires coming out of that switch? Why would the PTO be attached to it?

    Thanks for any help.

    Ron

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    Trav1s's Avatar
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    What is the serial number of the 316 in question? I suspect a wiring schematic will be helpful as others help you figure this out and the serial number will allow us to get the right one.


    FWIW I am working on a 1984 316 right now so I am curious to see what you find.
    AJgrn78 likes this.
    Trav1s on WFM
    '67 110, '68 side tag 110, '71 120/41 deck "worker," '77 312, '88 318/38 deck/49 blower, 7 & 10 carts, 51SV Chain saw, and a couple of old JD push mowers and a 318 needing a new heart.

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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    Hey Ron, Iím sure someone here will be able to share a wiring diagram. It sounds like a wire is potentially shorting to the chassis or another wire, but itís strange that it doesnít burn out the fuse immediately. I wonder if something you changed in the pto caused the resistance to climb too high? Also, if you can share the year of your tractor that would help, and it sounds like at some point it had an engine swap?
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    1984 JD 316 w/ cat 0 3-pt hitch and 2000 rpm pto, 48" tiller, 49" snowblower, 42" belly mower
    2015 JD 1025r, 60d MMM, 54" front mounted snowblower, Heavy hitch, Ballast box
    1980 JD 1050 4wd, JD 75 loader, IH 60" brush hog
    1980? Satoh S550g Elk, 60" belly mower
    McCulloch Saws - 1970's Mini Mac 30; Mac 10-10
    1978 Ariens Sno-Thro 32"; Troy-Bilt 24" snoblower
    1996 Polaris 680 Ultra Snowmobile, 2004 Yamaha Raptor 660, 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570
    1996 KTM EXC 300
    Gravely ZT-HD 60"

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    Ron, I've attached a wiring diagram for a 317. Most of the 3xx series tractors are similar, with possibly (??) wiring color being different...318 & up are a whole different animal.

    As far as pto getting hot and blowing fuse, check the resistance of you coil winding. If your coil is shorting out internally, your resistance will drop and you'll pull more amperage...enough to overheat coil & blow fuse. Disconnect wire from pto coil and check ohms from that wire to ground. You should get 4 ohms, (+/- .2 ??). Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 317 wiring diagram.jpg

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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    Here you go Ron...straight out of my JD 316 Tech manual (sorry...I forgot I had this).

    Click image for larger version.†

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    1984 JD 316 w/ cat 0 3-pt hitch and 2000 rpm pto, 48" tiller, 49" snowblower, 42" belly mower
    2015 JD 1025r, 60d MMM, 54" front mounted snowblower, Heavy hitch, Ballast box
    1980 JD 1050 4wd, JD 75 loader, IH 60" brush hog
    1980? Satoh S550g Elk, 60" belly mower
    McCulloch Saws - 1970's Mini Mac 30; Mac 10-10
    1978 Ariens Sno-Thro 32"; Troy-Bilt 24" snoblower
    1996 Polaris 680 Ultra Snowmobile, 2004 Yamaha Raptor 660, 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570
    1996 KTM EXC 300
    Gravely ZT-HD 60"

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    Trav1s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    Ron, I've attached a wiring diagram for a 317. Most of the 3xx series tractors are similar, with possibly (??) wiring color being different...318 & up are a whole different animal.

    As far as pto getting hot and blowing fuse, check the resistance of you coil winding. If your coil is shorting out internally, your resistance will drop and you'll pull more amperage...enough to overheat coil & blow fuse. Disconnect wire from pto coil and check ohms from that wire to ground. You should get 4 ohms, (+/- .2 ??). Bob

    This 316 with the Onan has more in common with the 318 than any of the early machines. Think 318 without power steering.
    Trav1s on WFM
    '67 110, '68 side tag 110, '71 120/41 deck "worker," '77 312, '88 318/38 deck/49 blower, 7 & 10 carts, 51SV Chain saw, and a couple of old JD push mowers and a 318 needing a new heart.

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    Thanks Travis. I thought...incorrectly...the 316, being in between the 314 & 317 could be the same. Hopefully I'm correct on my diagnosis of the pto getting hot and blowing fuses. Bob

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    Here is a manual excerpt from the TM1590 with the official Deere wiring diagrams for the 316 Onan and other Onan powered open frame tractors prior to the end of the model years in 1992. It covers the 316-Onan, the 318 and the 420. It has some diagnostic suggestions and a good description of the theories of operation for each functional section.

    318 Tm1590 schematics.pdf

    A failing PTO winding with a partial internal short will blow fuses as indicated -- the PTO coil should nominally be 3.4 to 4.9 ohms of resistance but you often find them near or even under one ohm that still pull in (but blow the fuse...) Let us know what you find when you begin measuring values and tracing wires.

    Chuck

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    IndianaJim's Avatar
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    As Chuck said, check the PTO resistance.
    If its shorted, youll see it when you check it.

    If that isnt it, and hopefully its not, you likely have a short or another issue with the wiring harness.

    Luckily, tracing down the harness only takes time, and hopefully its a simple fix.


    No one mentioned it, or I missed it, but you should have two fuses there and one circuit breaker. The wiring diagram will show you this.
    If you have more than that, you will need to figure out why and fix it.
    Jim B.

    318, 49 Thrower, 2 80 Carts, 17AT cart, 54 Blade, 12" Brinly Plow, 30 Hydraulic Tiller w/extension & Briney 3-Pt hitch, 50 deck w/JRCO Cart Bagger.
    2025R, 120R loader w/Kens Bolt On Hooks, 260B backhoe w/8" & 16" buckets, Titan 36" forks, Imatch hitch, Weight Bracket/Hitch.

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    Thanks for all the diagrams. I went and changed out the battery today. It now starts immediately before the battery it would turn over a few times before it started. So it started great adn I turned on the PTO expecting it to run for 30 secs and die like it did yesterday, but it ran for a couple of minutes. I turned off the pto and then back on and let it run for another couple of minutes. I thought maybe it needs to move to fail so I took it out of the garage and turned on the PTO and began to mow. I mowed for about 30 minutes and nothing failed. I'll have to test this next weekend. It usually takes me about 4 hours to mow the yard. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It's strange that I only have one 30 amp fuse. It's also strange that after it failed and blew 3 times in a row yesterday after parking it and changing the battery only causes it to run fine today. I'll let you know how it goes next weekend. This is a great machine it's been running flawlessly for 8 years now.

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