I've got a 210 model that is giving me some trouble. A few weeks ago the drive belt popped off the back gear. So I got it all apart and put the belt back on, put it back together, and it runs good.
After that I noticed something that wasn't happening before. In 4th gear only, when the mower deck is active/running, it will get slower and slower until it finally stands still. Engine is still running, but it's not moving. If I turn off the mower deck, it goes at that point.
I won't do this in 3rd or 2nd gear. Also, 3rd gear is almost like driving in 2nd, rather slow, even with full throttle. So it mows at least in 3rd gear, but won't anymore in 4th since it stops within a few seconds of starting, doesn't matter how high the grass is, it can be freshly cut.
So looking for some advise as to what this might be and how could I go about getting it fixed. Thanks for any advise!
I tried adjusting the variator on it, and it adjusted fine, clutch pedal moved up to where it should be. I then tightened the bolt back down, everything seems tight and good. But when when I pressed the clutch again after turning it on, the clutch fell right back down to where it was originally and same problems. I tried this a couple times, same results.
Does this mean something in that tensioner? Does it need a new part or just adjustment further?
You should remove the deck and investigate from underneath the tractor. There are several possibilities for the problem you have posted. There are two springs, one is adjustable, two belts that must be in good condition and free of grease, and a center sheave in the variator that must be able to slide freely to adjust the belts in connection with the variator position.
The above drawings should be similar to your 210, but there are differences in the model years from 1975 to 1986. This drawing is for an early model. Look for spring #6 and link #8 to be intact. The #13 pulley should rest on top of the upper part of the secondary belt (rear). #12 arm should move freely without a lot of slop, though some wear is expected. The upper and lower parts of the belt should not touch each other through the range of the variator. Sometimes the spring breaks and disappears along with the link if it used one.
Spring #4 can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut and turning the other nut to add or lessen tension. This spring is very stout. Be careful when removing, adjusting, or replacing it. It also can break and since it provides the main tension for the clutch, it can cause the symptoms you describe.
The center sheave of the variator, #23, can't be checked real well with the belts on, but with the clutch pedal locked down, you can see if it revolves easily and can slide back and forth on it's bearing. With the belts off, it should move easily to both sides and not stick or get cocked due to excess wear in the bushing. Powdered graphite is the recommended lubricant.
The belts must be replaced with the correct belts from JD. Don't even bother to try anything else. The belts must be the exact length, width, and angle to make the variator system work correctly. The belts last a long time in normal use. Yours could actually be the originals.
So, check these things out and let us know what you find.
j , what kind of shape are your belts in ? How old ?
OEM JD belts last a long time , but they do wear out eventually !
Years ago , I bought a 214 to use as a back-up tractor . The engine burned oil , paint was worn & faded . Point being , this thing had a LOT of hours ! It ran , but would throw the secondary belt (usually at the most inoppertune times !)
The drive belts were simply worn & stretched .
You can tell if this is the case by looking at the tensioner pulley (#14 in the diagram). It pushes the top side of the belt down to create tension . If the belt is worn & stretched it can actually contact the bottom surface of the belt (#5), causing it to jump off .
The two surfaces should have sufficient space between them .