110 10hp / runs strong for 10 ish minutes
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Thread: 110 10hp / runs strong for 10 ish minutes

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    110 10hp / runs strong for 10 ish minutes

    Got my son in law a 110 off craigslist few weeks ago, noticed it had a new carb / new points and condenser. Test drive before we bought it seemed perfect. Once we got it home and started mowing we figured out why he sold it..... about 10 minutes into mowing it just bogs down , barley runs. If you leave it sit it will start and run great / it will also run at idle with out issue also.

    1974 110 - 10hp ,

    new carb / coil / points / condenser ...

    where should we look next ?

    it's not the tank or the vent , thinking fuel pump but unsure of what psi to look for , could the condenser short out ? could the valves need adjusting? it runs strong and no smoke for first ten minutes so im not thinking engine issues


    edit; son just texted me that when it doesnt want to run it shoots flames out thru carb
    Last edited by jeepdaddy; 10-05-2018 at 08:17 AM. Reason: son added more info

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepdaddy View Post
    Got my son in law a 110 off craigslist few weeks ago, noticed it had a new carb / new points and condenser. Test drive before we bought it seemed perfect. Once we got it home and started mowing we figured out why he sold it..... about 10 minutes into mowing it just bogs down , barley runs. If you leave it sit it will start and run great / it will also run at idle with out issue also.

    1974 110 - 10hp ,

    new carb / coil / points / condenser ...

    where should we look next ?

    it's not the tank or the vent , thinking fuel pump but unsure of what psi to look for , could the condenser short out ? could the valves need adjusting? it runs strong and no smoke for first ten minutes so im not thinking engine issues


    edit; son just texted me that when it doesnt want to run it shoots flames out thru carb
    Things I have seen. Coil is bad and gets hot, then it acts like it is running out of gas but you say that is new.
    I suspect it this is the valves are too close and it is holding them open when it warms up.
    Could also be dirt in the bowl of the carb that blocks the main jet and then falls back out when it shuts off.
    You might try another condenser. They are cheap and like to cause gremlins as well.
    Last edited by Herminator; 10-05-2018 at 02:11 PM.
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    can i run without the condenser when it starts acting up ?

    coil and carb are brand new , fuel filter also

    we just put these on without any improvement
    Last edited by jeepdaddy; 10-05-2018 at 10:38 AM. Reason: added last line

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    Sounds like a bad condenser to me. As Herminator said, "they're cheap." The only other thing I can think of is gas is "boiling" in the carb. maybe a thicker gasket between carb and manifold ??? Bob
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepdaddy View Post
    Got my son in law a 110 off craigslist few weeks ago, noticed it had a new carb / new points and condenser. Test drive before we bought it seemed perfect. Once we got it home and started mowing we figured out why he sold it..... about 10 minutes into mowing it just bogs down , barley runs. If you leave it sit it will start and run great / it will also run at idle with out issue also.
    I was once gifted a lawn mower that acted like that. Cooling fins were clogged causing it to heat and vapor lock.

    Sent from my RCT6773W22 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Roger47; 10-06-2018 at 08:52 AM.
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    The other thing is that the oil pan and pickup could be plugged either with sludge or something else. I my case a nickel size fuzz ball (dandelion or cotton wood) was stuck to the pickup right under the tube, plus there was a lot of sludge in the bottom so it was restricting oil flow.

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    Trying another condenser, making sure the new coil is either an original type Kohler which has an internal resistor, or a comparable aftermarket substitute, then double checking the points setting is .020", I would suspect a valve problem. Possibly a readjustment will solve the problem. Another thing that happens with one that actually runs well until warmed up good, then dies (sometimes with a loud BANG) is the valve guides have a build up of carbon. As it gets hot, a valve will seize in the open position. When it cools enough to let go, sometimes you can hear a "click" as the valve slams shut from full open.

    Cure for that is to pull the head, remove the valves, and ream the guides to remove the carbon. If this is the problem, one or both valves will be a bit hard to get out, rather than being easily pulled out.

    tommyhawk
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    It might be lean, or any of the electrical components but I agree It sounds like a valve adjustment or sticking issue.
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