318 Starting Problems
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    318 Starting Problems

    My 318 has been having starting issues and I'm not sure what step to take next.

    Last week I went to start it up and I was just getting a "chunk" sound with every key turn. So after some reading on here I purchased and installed the Starter Improvement Relay Kit.

    Once I had the kit on I went to start up and now I'm just getting a grinding noise coming from the engine area with the key turn. I'm brand new to working on these tractors with very minimal knowledge on them but that's why I'm here.

    So what's my next course of action in getting my 318 running again?

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    I'm not too familiar with 318, but here's what I think could (??) be going on: You may have a broken mounting tab on your starter or simply a bolt fell out. Your original "clunk" could have been the pinion gear on the starter hitting the flywheel...not engaging, just hitting due to misalignment. Now, they gear is still hitting the flywheel but the starter kit gives the starter motor enough power to rotate...again, against the flywheel but not engaging.

    First, is engine turning over when starter motor rotates?
    Second, check all of your starter mounting bolts...will probably need a mirror.
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Thanks for the reply. No the engine is not turning over at all. Just getting the grinding noise and that's it. I'll try to get a video of it played if I can.

    And I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint any loose mounting bolts on the starter and tighten them back down.

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    To me, a "clunk" and/or "grind" is DEFINITELY a starter misalignment issue !! Starter pinion comes out and hits flywheel rather than engaging with teeth on flywheel. Either the front of the starter is in too far or the back is out too far. Check REAL close for any cracks/breaks in starter...and block! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Unfortunately you need to pull your motor. It only takes about an hour if your tools are organized enough to search sizes quickly. The motor weighs about 100lbs I’d guess. I can squat one. You only need to put the side of the oil pan on the frame rail to access everything for shroud and starter removal.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    TR,

    A couple of more things to consider:
    1. Is this an early 318 with the Bendix starter or a later one with the integral solenoid shift starter? The reason for asking is that the later type starter's pinion should be fully engaged with the flywheel gear before high current is applied by the solenoid to spin the starter motor. The Bendix has a separate solenoid on the firewall and it spins the starter motor before the pinion is moved into engagement -- much more likely to hear grinding noises with the older style starter. An out of alignment or loosely mounted starter would cause grinding in either case...

    2. What is the battery voltage when the key is on but not turned, and what is it when you move the key switch such that the starter is turning? A low/weak battery will magnify starter and solenoid issues, and sometimes even mimic them.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Chuck

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckv View Post
    TR,

    A couple of more things to consider:
    1. Is this an early 318 with the Bendix starter or a later one with the integral solenoid shift starter? The reason for asking is that the later type starter's pinion should be fully engaged with the flywheel gear before high current is applied by the solenoid to spin the starter motor. The Bendix has a separate solenoid on the firewall and it spins the starter motor before the pinion is moved into engagement -- much more likely to hear grinding noises with the older style starter. An out of alignment or loosely mounted starter would cause grinding in either case...

    2. What is the battery voltage when the key is on but not turned, and what is it when you move the key switch such that the starter is turning? A low/weak battery will magnify starter and solenoid issues, and sometimes even mimic them.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Chuck
    Thanks for the replies everybody. I've never pulled a motor or done much work on tractors before so I've been looking around to get all the info I can on the best way to pull the motor and to try to avoid damaging anything in the process.

    Chuckv,

    I apologize again as I'm new to this, how can I tell if my tractor has a Bendix starter or an integral solenoid shift starter? The tractor serial is in the M00318X3688XX range if that tells anything.

    I tested the battery voltage and got these readings.
    - Battery with nothing turned on: 11.91V
    - Battery with key in run position: 9.07V
    - Battery with key cranking: 5.60V

    Are these good readings or is there a separate battery voltage issue here?
    Last edited by TangoRomeo0311; 10-25-2018 at 06:00 PM.

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    Your battery should be 12.6 fully charged. It might be as high as 14 fresh off a charger.

    To pull the motor there are a couple wires to disconnect, coil and voltage regulator.

    Fuel line

    Throttle and choke cables. I spray paint the clamps before removing to mark their position.

    Oil cooler and driveshaft. If the driveshaft is accessible first do it before the cooler. I forgot if it is.

    Then motor mount bolts. and yank.

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    368xxx is a solinoid shift starter on a b-43 engine.




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    The voltage measurements you posted are indicating that your battery is end of life and dead or dying...get a new battery and try again.

    If this battery is not that old, then try an external battery charger to see if it can come up to 14.3 volts on the charger and at LEAST 12.6 volts at rest with the key off... It could be that the tractor is not charging this battery and we can trouble shoot that symptom if needed after you establish that a good battery is in place, charged and able to start the tractor.

    Chuck

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