I highly recommend the JD paint, I believe it's made by Valspar. It goes on much better and it covers more too. It's just not worth it to me to save a couple of bucks when I'm putting all that work into fixing something up.
2012 JD 2320
1985 JD 318
1952 JD MC
1974 IH 784 4WD
I second using the JD brand of spray paint! It might be a little more expensive, but the results are well worth it!
Greg from western pa
FEL/61" HD bucket/replaceable cutting edge
IMatch Quick Hitch
A "REAL" snow blade ---- JD 380A modded to fit
Homemade 3PT Receiver
Homemade Ballast Box
Woods GB65 Box Blade
2019 JOHN DEERE X390 with 48" ACCEL DEEP DECK
MY 2520 SE SEAT MOD:
MY BALLAST BOX
Since most paint in the rattle cans does not have a hardner or UV in them, you might want to do a clear coat with UV protection which will help with fade.
Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 12-21-2018 at 12:26 PM.
I haven't tried Krylon, but I've used Valspar, Rustoleum, and JD rattle cans. JD is $$ more but covers & looks better, MAJOR problems with Valspar nozzles...maybe just the lot?...dripping, used a LOT of Rustoleum, requires additional coats, but comes out OK.
Clear coat: You MUST wait a MINIMUM of 5 days after top coating to apply a/several clear coat(s). I painted my pedestal on my 317 last spring. Prepped a few low spots with body filler, primed & painted with Rustoleum. Sanded, repainted..,.low spots in paint. Sanded, painted, wet sanded, still a few low spots. Continued until low spots were gone. A final 1500 grit wet sand and clear...INSTANT wrinkle! Sand, paint, sand paint, clear coat...friggin' wrinkles! Soooo, I sand, paint...again, about 3 or 4 times...and waited 6 or 7 days. A LIGHT clear coat and no wrinkles. A heavier clear coat...again after 6 or 7 days...and no wrinkles! I'm not a person with a lot of patience, but unless you want to do it over, and over, and etc, you MUST wait before applying clear!
A "test" that I did was to prime & paint a piece of sheet metal I had hanging around. When I applied my last green to my pedestal, I also painted the "scrap/test." 3 or 4 days later, I laid a piece of cardboard over the test, leaving about 2" exposed, and applied clear...,WRINKLES! A day or 2 later, I moved the cardboard back to expose an additional 2" and applied clear...again it wrinkled, but only in a few places. Another 2 days I pulled the cardboard back 2" and applied clear...NO wrinkles! Maybe 3 days later I "cleared" my pedestal with good results (NO wrinkles!). BTW, I had Rustoleum, Valspar, and JD paint on my "test"...ALL with the same results! It's all about proper drying! Bob
Last edited by rwmeyer; 12-21-2018 at 12:06 PM.
'80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
'82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
54 4 way blade
Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac
Personally, I will spend the money on a gallon of JD paint & use my HVLP spray gun when doing a complete tractor. A Gallon might cost you on average about $90. But if your going to rattle can it at 10 cans for $9. each.....? Also with bulk paint I can add hardeners, retarders, reducers, or whatever & create the base coat I want. Just my own experience here.
Valspar rattle cans. I've used them. No problems. JD a little better in terms of can operation & its worth the extra $. However I find JD yellow to be a difficult paint to work with. Don't understand why.
Pretty much everything has been covered except when it comes to krylon. Just say no, unless you want a blue tractor in a couple years.
I used the JD paint I got from the dealer, it was about $22 for a qt. I sprayed it with a HVLP gun I got from Harbor Freight for $15.99, it's well worth the money and does a nice job.. 20 fl. oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun . I used rust-oleum metal primer, some in the rattle cans and some from a qt.. just make sure it's dry before spraying the finish.. You can see the results here.. My 265 project..
1988 John Deere 265 with 46" mower deck, Power Flow Bagger, Dethatcher, 1976 John Deere 100 with 34" mower deck,