322 runs great but dies intermittently
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Thread: 322 runs great but dies intermittently

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    322 runs great but dies intermittently

    I've been scouring this site for weeks to find an answer to my problems. It seems I have a common problem but there's never a resolution to the posts I've read through.
    So I decided to join and see if I can get some help figuring this thing out!

    My 322 has been cutting off after 5 to 10 minutes. It runs great until then...but won't fire up for half an hour or more after it dies
    Here's what I've accomplished so far while inspecting and troubleshooting

    replaced the pick up tube and filter in the gas tank (it had fallen off and cracked into pieces)
    new battery
    electrical testing for spark , cold as well as after it dies, has spark both scenarios
    tested transistor module, honestly don't know what my readings mean as they are quite different from the manual (I know about the old analog meters the manual was written around and mine is a digital one)
    repaired quite a few bad connections in wiring coming of the rectifier
    replaced the fan belt, thermostat, and a radiator hose- unrelated to my issues but needed to be done
    have a fuel pump on its way to replace , mine sounds good but after it dies the pump is considerably quieter and maybe suspect
    replaced fuel line from pump to carb, and inline filter

    the transistor testing also was not done immediately after it died, which is probably the best time to test it but a little impractical
    it does have 12v at all coils after it dies
    It does turn over so I don't suspect a safety switch, which is bypassed

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by dpatrickj; 12-26-2018 at 02:52 PM.

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    Testing while failed is key to what you have attempted so far.

    I would add, did you clean the tank? New fuel filter? Tank vent being plugged is doubtful. Did you replace the black fuel line?

    The pump does get quiet when primed and at pressure. I used to let the key sit in run until it did, then hit the starter. If it was the tcdm I would expect no fire until it cooled.

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    The time delay control module?
    kind of what I figured. Maybe some of the bad electrical connections I repaired caused it some problems.

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    Wow that thing is hard to get to, must have been the first thing they installed when it was built. It looks brand new, I was hoping to see some sign of over heating or something. Wires were pretty crimped going into the box.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 88D4D04A-91F1-4013-BFE6-69EF0F06EED3_1545875821794.jpeg   7A100424-5BBF-4EE7-AF67-5B74D0D899DC_1545875917434.jpeg   28C0DA98-1DE8-4406-8CE3-02EFC805024E_1545875940864.jpeg  

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    Most likely either a connection issue grounds or plugs that warm up and break connection due to corrosion, find the grounds clean and apply dielectric grease, then check the plugs (both sides) for the TDCM. If you rule that out and maintenance done for possible corrosion, then it points more than likely back to the igniter control box (aka Transistor module). This has been on the different forums this year more than usual this year.

    The transistor module pickups pulses from the pulser(3) located around the flywheel and amps the voltage/current and then switches on/off the power applied to the coil which produces spark at the spark plugs.

    From the chart with the reading of resistances you provided, are way out of range. So please go back and measures again. A pic of your meter and setting for the measuring for upper right chart and the lower left. That way we can help you with the possible operation of the meter if some thing does not seem right with the meter or its operation.
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 12-26-2018 at 10:30 PM.
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    dpatrickj (01-02-2019)

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    Haven't been able to do much until today...
    I've held off replacing the fuel pump as it really doesn't act like its running out of fuel, have one on hand just in case.
    Got it all back together after replacing the fan belt, thermostat. Cleaned all wiring connections, grounds are good. I even picked up a used tdcm module on ebay and swapped it (that was fun). No change still. It reliably dies after about 10 minutes, won't fire again for half an hour or more.
    I got the transistor module unbolted for a quick removal after it quits this time and brought it in immediately to test it with the multi meter.
    Also took pics of my meter and took measurements on 2K and 200K settings for resistance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0529.jpg   IMG_0530.jpg   IMG_0534.jpg   IMG_0532.jpg   IMG_0533.jpg  

    Last edited by dpatrickj; 01-02-2019 at 05:34 PM.

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    It's your Transistor module that is bad.

    Just another thing about your meter, there is a continuity setting just below the 200 ohm range, it is circled in RED.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_Meter_Continuity.jpg  
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 01-02-2019 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Added edited photo of meter

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    I hope so, I ordered a new one ,it'll be here tomorrow.

    So which setting should I have been using for resistance?

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    bloodrunsgreen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpatrickj View Post
    I hope so, I ordered a new one ,it'll be here tomorrow.

    So which setting should I have been using for resistance?
    For resistance that was on the chart, since it is above 2K your meter should be set to 20K not the 200K, which sets the voltage bias(applied) for the best reading of resistance. Except for where it goes above 20K then 200K would be appropriate (ie the second line from the bottom which has readings above 20K). In the second chart, because you had 2K set the readings from the meter show a lot of out of range displays. But you did all right, not bad for being a NOT guru at electric/electronics/test gear.
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 01-02-2019 at 06:12 PM.

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    Thumbs up

    All fixed with the new transistor module! Hooray, and thanks to everyone who helped!
    Mike265 likes this.

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