316 steering shaft & sector - salvageable???
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    316 steering shaft & sector - salvageable???

    Howdy,
    So I got the sector and shaft out now. Both have wear. The bolt in the yoke was tight but the yoke was turning on the sector shaft.
    Are either salvageable? Sector seems nice and snug. The u-joints on the steering shaft seem tight also.

    Thoughts? Ideas?

    PS. It's snowing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 49211161_204020567210699_1015529997638565888_n.jpg   49069764_270190460319761_397865983387107328_n.jpg   49010906_314388256078159_1215321164600049664_n.jpg   48420598_131149394487283_8239660033118306304_n.jpg  

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    My brother had a similar situation on the steering linkage of his Ford 1210. Replacement parts were only available for one side and they were like $300. We decided to put it back together, tighten the bolt and then put two weld beads around the junction of the yoke and shaft. Problem solved. If it ever needs to be disassembled 5-mins with an angle grinder will remove the weld beads. It probably sounds like a crude fix but it's been several years and the steering remains nice and tight.
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Two thoughts.

    Take a cutoff grinding wheel and open up the slot. There are enough teeth left there that if you can get it to clamp down further it should grab. It looks like it is worn enough that even though the bolt was tight the slot probably stopped it from clamping down hard enough. This would be my first thought.

    2nd. If you do that and it does not hold clamp it down and drill a hole though both pieces and put a bolt through them. That is an ugly fix and does not allow for it to adjust to the length you might need.

    He posted the same time as me. This is a good plan as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    My brother had a similar situation on the steering linkage of his Ford 1210. Replacement parts were only available for one side and they were like $300. We decided to put it back together, tighten the bolt and then put two weld beads around the junction of the yoke and shaft. Problem solved. If it ever needs to be disassembled 5-mins with an angle grinder will remove the weld beads. It probably sounds like a crude fix but it's been several years and the steering remains nice and tight.
    Last edited by Herminator; 12-26-2018 at 11:23 PM.
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    Welcome to Intermission.

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    I agree with Herminator, widen the gap.

    Eric
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    I widened the gap and used red Loctite. Seems to be holding for now. If that doesn't hold, then I'l weld a bead on it.

    Thanks guys
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    Steve, after installing arm and tightening bolt, do you still have a gap? If you do, it's the best its gonna be. If not, grind it again. If you need to remove arm, heat is the only way to go now that you have red Locktite...could have used blue. Use welding as your last resort. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
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    Yep, still has a gap. Once I get the rest of the tractor back together I'll give it a proper test in this snow.
    I think the prior owner parked it underwater after every use. Every bushing and linkage is seized.

    Does the 316 have a fan at the back of the transaxle? I have a splined shaft at the back but nothing on it.

    Also, is the Neutral Return Guide (#20) a roller or just a stationary pin?

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Neutral Return Guide.JPG  

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    I cannot find a spline shaft but according to the parts illustration there is a fan on the drive shaft.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 316_fan.jpg  
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Steve, Previous owner may have had a tiller on the rear. Mounting the tiller drive requires removing the existing fan and installing the tiller drive pulley with a "built-in" fan. This was removed prior to the sale.

    As far as the return to neutral linkage, I believe...not 100% sure...item 20 gets bolted solid to your fwd/rev lever linkage and does not rotate. When you press on the brake pedal(s), item 20 moves item 18, which then moves the fwd/rev lever into neutral. If you have any creep in neutral, this is your starting point...get this into neutral and then adjust rear linkage to hydro unit.

    Hope this helps rather than confuses! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
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    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    The neutral return is a bushing that like to seize.

    Looking at pictures I’m thinking 316 onan not 316k. I think the fan was only on the kohler models. Either way unless your doing ground work or towing heavy loads in hot weather it’s completely unnecessary.
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