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    322 Electrical problems -

    Recently purchased a 322 88 model - everything worked when i brought it home - now i have problems - first the head lights did not work and tail lights did - checked connections and fuses then the tails quit working - figured out the switch was bad and replaced it. then i started the tractor to move it moved out park and it died - the neutral safety switch went out . Put in a new one and it worked one time and burned out . So i locked the button in - so i could drive it . Now the new problem- wanted to try the snow blower engaged the electric clutch and lost power to the tractor . the previous owner eliminated the seat and brake switches and put a jumper wire in a connection by the clutch switch . I used a test light and checked that terminal it had power with the switch on- turned on clutch switch power went out. I need some HELP.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    The 322 is my favorite model of this group of open framed garden tractors built until 1992, and is generally quite reliable if unmolested by a prior owner. Too bad yours has so many hacks, and I suggest that you restore all safety systems to factory original both for safety reasons and to allow those of us on these forums more ability to assist you as all the Deere literature and service information presumes a factory configuration.

    There may be several reasons engaging the PTO causes loss of engine ignition. The original wiring was set up to allow the engine to run/idle when the seat was not occupied AND the ground speed lever was in neutral AND the parking break was set and none of the PTO switches were ON. Changing any of the above requires that the seat switch is closed, indicating the presence of an operator. The prior owner's hacks/bypasses in this area may be failing -- so look there first.

    A second potential issue is that the PTO has developed enough internally shorted turns to draw excessive current. There be multiple reasons for shorted turns including overheating, but the most common is a worn out PTO bearing that allows the rotor to abrade through the potting on the face of the coil and short turns. A normal PTO resistance would be in the range of 3.4 to 4.9 ohms, but shorted turns will lower this to sometimes less than an ohm. The 322 does not have a self-resetting breaker like found on the 318, so it is not as simple to externally deduce the over-current condition and making a measurement with an accurate ohm meter is needed.

    Here is a manual fragment that shows most of the wiring in small excerpts with good descriptions of how everything is meant to work -- if this tractor is one you want to keep in your heard for decades you should consider restoring the wiring to the way it left the factory.

    wiring fromTm1591.pdf

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 01-01-2019 at 11:27 AM.
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    322 Electrical problems

    need to know locations of brake safety switch and there is a small box located under the tractor by the drive shaft it has 4 purple wires and 1 black wire - would like to know what it is - since it has purple wires maybe it is part of the circuit.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    That module would be the neutral start relay as shown in this manual illustration:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	neutral start relay location.jpg 
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    Look on the wiring diagram document I attached in my last post for the note on the parking brake switch not being present on serial numbers lower than 596005 -- so none of the 1988 model years have that brake switch.

    Chuck

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    322 Electrical problems

    would that have anything to do pto switch - all the problems happen at same time - do you think the switch could be bad- i never had a 322 before so i am new at this. because the light switch and neutral switch - both went out -

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    Separate circuits (branch or parallel, which are feed from a common power feed) all together. One is the lighting circuit, the other is the safety circuit. The light circuit is powered directly off the F1 fuse 25 Amp) fuse and key switch. The safety circuit is powered off the key switch, F1 25 Amp fuse, seat switch then to the 2 pin power connector and then to the TDCM (pin 9). The TDCM has another power feed to the big power connector (pin 3). The PTO switches are powered by the F2 fuse 10 amp and feed the brake switch (if present) and transmission neutral switch which in turn operate the neutral start relay.

    Could be either a bad ground (broken, exposed/melted up by the front lights).

    So check and clean your grounds.
    Battery/engine/frame
    Engine/frame
    Front lights/frame
    rear lights/frame
    pedestal/frame
    Last edited by bloodrunsgreen; 01-01-2019 at 04:00 PM.

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