Snow chains or wheel weights for 318 pushing a snowblower
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22
Like Tree10Likes

Thread: Snow chains or wheel weights for 318 pushing a snowblower

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Last Online
    11-02-2019 @ 12:03 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    362
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts

    Snow chains or wheel weights for 318 pushing a snowblower

    Just curious which is best. I have wheel weights but I don't have snow chains. Haven't tried either, however I'm slipping and sliding as I"m using the snowblower.

    I'm looking at snow chains online however, I'm assuming I buy them according to the tire size (rear)

    23x8.50-12

    But then when you do a search on ebay another size comes up but then it will say "it also fits" and that number above shows up.

    Thanks

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    IndianaJim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Last Online
    11-11-2019 @ 10:51 AM
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,464
    Thanks
    24
    Thanked 200 Times in 153 Posts
    23x10.50x12 is what should be on the 318. Since thats the tire size, thats the size chains you want.

    If you are running turf tires, you will want chains.
    No matter what, you will also want wheel weights.
    I would advise rear weights as well.

    Ive been running a 318 and 49 thrower since it was new in 87. We always had 50# weights on the wheels, year round. We ran chains in the Winter and a weight box with roughly 150# in it. With that setup, it would never get stuck.
    I currently run Tru Power ag tires, no chains, 70# starter weights on the wheels, and 168# on the rear 3-point.
    That is not enough on ice.
    With chains, you can run less weight, but they can mark up asphalt.
    You will also get rust stains from the chains on your concrete in the garage if you park there.
    Since my current area is pretty flat, no chains works for me.
    Jim B.

    318, 49 Thrower, 2 80 Carts, 17AT cart, 54 Blade, 12" Brinly Plow, 30 Hydraulic Tiller w/extension & Briney 3-Pt hitch, 50 deck w/JRCO Cart Bagger.
    2025R, 120R loader w/Kens Bolt On Hooks, 260B backhoe w/8" & 16" buckets, Titan 36" forks, Imatch hitch, Weight Bracket/Hitch.

    Exmark Lazer Z HP 52"
    Husqvarna 550XP, 562XP, 55 Rancher

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Last Online
    11-02-2019 @ 12:03 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    362
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by IndianaJim View Post
    23x10.50x12 is what should be on the 318. Since thats the tire size, thats the size chains you want.

    If you are running turf tires, you will want chains.
    No matter what, you will also want wheel weights.
    I would advise rear weights as well.

    Ive been running a 318 and 49 thrower since it was new in 87. We always had 50# weights on the wheels, year round. We ran chains in the Winter and a weight box with roughly 150# in it. With that setup, it would never get stuck.
    I currently run Tru Power ag tires, no chains, 70# starter weights on the wheels, and 168# on the rear 3-point.
    That is not enough on ice.
    With chains, you can run less weight, but they can mark up asphalt.
    You will also get rust stains from the chains on your concrete in the garage if you park there.
    Since my current area is pretty flat, no chains works for me.
    Wow,

    So upon checking my tractor, for some reason the tires are 23x8.5-12. Looks like someone changed tham over before me. Now another question, does it make sense to bring the rear tires back to where they were before (23x10.5-12)?

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    IndianaJim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Last Online
    11-11-2019 @ 10:51 AM
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,464
    Thanks
    24
    Thanked 200 Times in 153 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by steppinthrax View Post
    Wow,

    So upon checking my tractor, for some reason the tires are 23x8.5-12. Looks like someone changed tham over before me. Now another question, does it make sense to bring the rear tires back to where they were before (23x10.5-12)?
    I cant say for sure.
    It would certainly help on turf the rest of the year, but not sure its worth spending money on new tires.
    The other thing, youd have to make sure your wheels were correct too.
    Usually, the 23x8.50x12 tires were on 7.5" rims, where the 23x10.50s were on 8.5" wheels.
    Its possible someone owned it who owned several tractors, and they just put wheels/tires on it to sell it, maybe wanting to keep what was on it.
    The 23x10.50 tires/wheels are fairly cheap because they are so common (used on everything 300 series from the 300 up to the 332, and some later 400 series too), so I might look into it before I ordered chains, but I probably wouldnt worry too much about it.
    Last edited by IndianaJim; 01-13-2019 at 03:24 PM.
    Jim B.

    318, 49 Thrower, 2 80 Carts, 17AT cart, 54 Blade, 12" Brinly Plow, 30 Hydraulic Tiller w/extension & Briney 3-Pt hitch, 50 deck w/JRCO Cart Bagger.
    2025R, 120R loader w/Kens Bolt On Hooks, 260B backhoe w/8" & 16" buckets, Titan 36" forks, Imatch hitch, Weight Bracket/Hitch.

    Exmark Lazer Z HP 52"
    Husqvarna 550XP, 562XP, 55 Rancher

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:09 AM
    Location
    Near Roa. VA
    Posts
    3,661
    Thanks
    43
    Thanked 453 Times in 345 Posts
    If you do buy chains,, they MUST be "2 link" chains,, not "4 link"

    The "2 link" refers to the spacing between cross chains,, so, a 2 link has almost twice as many cross chains,,

    besides more traction, 2 link chains ride much smoother,,,
    Herminator likes this.
    Some of the tractors include JD 4105, JD 855, JD 650,,,, and,,, the IH 584 4WD
    My favorite attachment is the homemade landplane,,, EVERYONE needs one of those!!

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Last Online
    11-02-2019 @ 12:03 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    362
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by IndianaJim View Post
    I cant say for sure.
    It would certainly help on turf the rest of the year, but not sure its worth spending money on new tires.
    The other thing, youd have to make sure your wheels were correct too.
    Usually, the 23x8.50x12 tires were on 7.5" rims, where the 23x10.50s were on 8.5" wheels.
    Its possible someone owned it who owned several tractors, and they just put wheels/tires on it to sell it, maybe wanting to keep what was on it.
    The 23x10.50 tires/wheels are fairly cheap because they are so common (used on everything 300 series from the 300 up to the 332, and some later 400 series too), so I might look into it before I ordered chains, but I probably wouldnt worry too much about it.
    Is the 2nd number the height? if that's the case I can find out by just measuring the diameter of the rim.

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    04-02-2019 @ 07:38 AM
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    2nd number is the tire width. I would replace the tires with the correct size and run chains! Deflate the tires install the chains and fill with air. The chains will be tighter using this method. I run chains on my 1026r even with r4.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails C6EBED1D-D3FC-4984-9581-CCD43DBA40D7_1547415576014.jpeg  
    MDrew likes this.

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:01 AM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,847
    Thanks
    624
    Thanked 744 Times in 631 Posts
    I’m not a fan of deflating tires to put on chains. I’ve seen many with broken belts from being aired up with chains that were to tight. It only takes a couple minutes to get them tight with air in the tires. Then bungee cords are all it takes to stay tight.

    This is a pretty good video, except the air down.

    How to properly put on tractor tire chains 2017 - YouTube
    IndianaJim likes this.

  11. Top | #9
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:36 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,814
    Thanks
    5,960
    Thanked 4,080 Times in 3,011 Posts
    My vote, Both.
    IndianaJim, MDrew and ctrider like this.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  12. Top | #10
    AJgrn78's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 07:23 PM
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    1,278
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 94 Times in 87 Posts
    Another vote for... You need both!

    And extra weight on the back in addition to wheel weights if possible. I have chains, 200lbs of wheel weights, my fat ass (240lbs) and another 75lbs hanging on the 3 point hitch on my 316 when I run the snowblower.
    ctrider likes this.
    1984 JD 316 w/ cat 0 3-pt hitch and 2000 rpm pto, 48" tiller, 49" snowblower, 42" belly mower
    2015 JD 1025r, 60d MMM, 54" front mounted snowblower, Heavy hitch, Ballast box
    1980 JD 1050 4wd, JD 75 loader, IH 60" brush hog
    1980? Satoh S550g Elk, 60" belly mower
    McCulloch Saws - 1970's Mini Mac 30; Mac 10-10
    1978 Ariens Sno-Thro 32"; Troy-Bilt 24" snoblower
    1996 Polaris 680 Ultra Snowmobile, 2004 Yamaha Raptor 660, 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570
    1996 KTM EXC 300
    Gravely ZT-HD 60"

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •